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Resurrection of "The Fast and Luxurious"

Which engine shall i use?

  • 2.5L 16v turbo with high compression (9.6:1 SCR)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 2.3L 16v turbo low compression (8.8:1 SCR)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 2.0L 16v turbo (8.2:1 SCR) (original B204FT)

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    0
  • Poll closed .

mark244turbo

New member
Joined
Sep 18, 2010
Location
Netherlands
I sold my 745 turbo to Sebastian Wouters, because i had to little time to maintain four cars. Now i am starting a new project to resurrect the volvo 960 B204FT i bought four years ago..:oops: I hope to make more progress now my other car is gone.

The car:
1994 Volvo 960 B204FT (190hp), full options, climate control, black leather interior, wood inlay, et cetara.

The Exterior:
Volvo%20960_zpsfqmwfaak.jpg

The interior:
Volvo%20960%20interior_zpsxemh63oh.jpg

Volvo%20960%20backseat_zpsmhpdwp6h.jpg

The car came with the volvo 'special tools':
Volvo%20special%20tools_zpsoo1ez9lh.jpg

Replaced the shifter with the right one (M90 upgrade).
Volvo%20960%20M90_zpsi7v02bok.jpg

Oops....
Volvo%20960%20engine%20bay_zps6bhitcww.jpg
 
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Fast and Luxurious: The engine

The old engine: B204FT, 2.0L 16v turbo (190 hp, 280 Nm)

The new engine:
- 1996 B230FK shortblock, Stock pistons with milled valve reliefs
- B234F head with ford 4.6 valve springs
- Yoshifab tensioner / volvo 850 timing belt
- B204FT, B234F or PZ-cams (not yet decided) with KL-racing adjustable cam gear.
- B204FT intake with 3" volvo 960 throttle body
- Bosch 440cc injectors (too small?)
- KL-racing header
- Holset HE351CW turbocharger, with ported wastegate
- AN4 oil intake hose, AN12 oil return line, oil return in block tapped for 3/4" fitting
- Walker V-band flange, 3.5" downpipe => 3" exhaust.
- 50 mm KL-racing BOV

Engine options:
- AQ171 crank and pistons for high compression 2.5L engine (E85 only!)
- UI/UA cams (B234F), PZI/PZA (AQ171), FI/FA cams (B204FT)
- KL-racing intake manifold or Cosworth YB intake manifold (modified with B234F flange)
- B204FT exhaust manifold
- 630cc siemens injectors

Gearbox/flywheel/clutch:
- M90L gearbox
- M46 dog dish flywheel
- 940 tdi clutch and pressureplate (763)

This combo should be good for around 440 Nm (will that be enough for a B230/16v turbo?)
Maybe i should install a sintered disc so it will hold approx 500 Nm.

Flywheel/Clutch options:
Flat lightweight JVAB or TTV flywheel/765 pressure plate/850R clutch disc?

Engine Management System:
Stock B204FT LH2.4.2 (950? ECU)
EZK (number?)
TCU (turbo control unit), EGT-sensor, Electronic Boost Control, spark retard (APC/turbo+)
012 AMM (3")
~330cc injectors

Planned ECU/EZK/TCU modifications:
- 630 cc injectors / modify injector scaling in ECU for larger injectors
- Modify ECU for datalogging / Ostrich tuning
- TCU/resistor mod to raise boost level to Holset efficiency range.
- Wasted spark / VAG coil-on-plug conversion (EZK-mod with attiny13 & Ipdowns VAG-cop code)
- Maybe disable the EGT-sensor if i can't find a new place for the EGT sensor.
- Innotive Wideband

Turbo/Exhaust system.
- Stock: T3 turbo with 2.75" downpipe going into 2.5" cat and exhaust system (same as 940 turbo).
- New: Holset HE351CW (internal wastegate), 3.5" downpipe, 3" cat convertor and exhaust system.

Pics of the new engine (mockup):
IMG_1067_zpshcfzerq2.jpg

Welded a new downpipe today, not Nathan pretty, but it should hold.
IMG_1070_zps5drdwhqo.jpg
 
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Need to fix some details / suggestions for better solutions are welcome:

The Oil retun line is to short (i originally wanted to use a 90+ manifold).
I need to order a longer AN12 braided PTFE hose. Ordered

The Oil return line interferes with the oil filter.
I hope to solve this with a 45 degree AN12 fitting. Ordered

Cooling hose from the water pump is very close to the exhaust manifold
I want to solve this with heat wrap around the exhaust manifold and water hose. Ordered

Turbo Exhaust housing is less than an inch away from the timing belt
I want to make a mild steel heat shield and cover it with gold foil (rescue blanket) for extra heat reflection.

My downpipe runs very close to the cam cover and oil filler cap.
I want to solve this with heat wrapping around the downpipe and/or ceramic paint/coating.

Exhaust manifold may need to be braced to prevent cracking.

Motormounts. I need stronger motor mounts.
I think i am going to use the old style engine mounts, with diesel or BMW E30 mounts. (classicswede/silver user) poly mounts. Or should i go for the hockey puck solution?

Plug distributor hole in block.
40mm freeze cup or block mounted hall-distributor with crab cap (1-vane for later MS conversion).

Cat convertor. My car is from 1994 and according to our APK/T?v/MOT all cars from 1993 on i need to be fitted with a cat convertor. So i want to install a 200 cell Euro 3 OEM-style cat convertor with 3" in- and outlets. I found a stock looking one, that can be used in cars up to 600 hp (that will be more than suffici?nt).

QUESTIONS:
Do i need to convert to a solid underdrive pulley (instead of the harmonic balancer)?
 
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Stock B204FT Engine Management System:
LH2.4.2 (950? ECU)
EZK (number?)
TCU (turbo control unit), EGT-sensor, Electronic Booost Control, spark retard (APC/turbo+)
012 AMM (3")
~330cc injectors

Planned modifications:
- 630 cc injectors / modify ECU-maps for larger injectors
- Modify ECU for datalogging / Ostrich tuning
- TCU/resistor mod to raise boost level to Holset efficiency range.
- EZK-mod, wasted spark conversion (Attiny13 + Ipdowns VAG-cop code)
- Maybe disable the EGT-sensor if i can't find a new place for the EGT sensor.

Megasquirt/microsquirt might give better results, but the B204FT system is pretty advanced, especially with the EGT-sensor, boost-pressure sensor, eletcronic boost control, knock sensor/spark retardation/fuel enrichment, and airco-off-switch under heavy load.

I'd like to prepare the block for a microsquirt conversion. The block is allready prepared for a block mounted distributor. So i am going to put a modified 1-tooth block mounted hall-distributor in the block so i have a 60-2 crank signal and a cam signal, in case i decide to convert to megasquirt later on.
 
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I disabled EGTC on my B204FT, works fine.

I like your car. I like what you are doing to it. Makes me want to reconsider what I am doing to my 965...
 
This week i bought a second hand 3" cat-back exhaust system for a volvo 940.
Saved me a lot of time to build.
With a 3.5" downpipe and 3" exhaust system, i need a bigger cat.

Found this 200 cell Euro3 metal-cat on Ebay.de
$T2eC16V,!zUE9s38+CCeBQsz)!f)2!~~60_57.JPG


Looks like the stock volvo cat but with 76mm in- and outlet and according to the seller it's good for 600 hp (probably a lot more than i need).
And it's only € 129,-.
 
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Hi Mark, good to see you taking time to post pictures and present the car :)

For seeing this engine in real, this turbo is enormous!! You will make serious and reliable power with this!

keep going ;-)
 
B204FT intake modifications for 960 throttle body.

In order to upgrade my engine, i spent a few hours porting the b204ft intake manifold to accomodate the 960 throttle body. While doing that i also gasketmatched the intake runners of the manifold. I went from this:
6298368905_4fbe9536f6_z.jpg

To this:
6298372667_d85bb39488_z.jpg


Some pictures of the manifold with the 960 throttlebody installed
6298367495_22b5a1365a_z.jpg

and
6298374741_b8f1ed2186_z.jpg


There are a few differences between the 960 and B204FT throttle body:
The throttle lever that turns the throttle plate is on the opposite direction. That can be easily fixed by mounting the B204FT lever to the 960 throttle body.

I removed the 960 TPS and installed the B204FT TPS.

Originally posted here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=246688
 
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looks stock!

That stickshift looks soooo good in that car. Makes me jelly.

Project looks great!

Thanks! The M90 shifter is a bolt in replacement, all the bolt holes are allready there. The most difficult part is taking the shifter assembly apart, because you can't put the complete shifter through the hole of the M46.
One part goes in from the under the car and the other part from the interior. The lockring holding the shifter assembly together is a PITA to remove and reinstall. But the result is worth the trouble.
 
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Tapping the oil return line into block

Because i hate oil leaks and because i needed a bigger oil return line for the Holset, i decided to tap the block for 3/4 NPT and install a 3/4 NPT to 12AN Braided Teflon PTFE oil return line. I ran into exactly the same problem as Sir Psycho. The 3/4 NPT tap won't go all the way through the oil drain hole and the 3/4 NPT fitting will not fit unless you tap all the way through. So in needed to bore out the smaller opening at the end of the oil return hole in the block.

Warning: I recommend you bore and tap the block while the engine is disassembled, so you can clean out all the shaving before reassembling the engine. If you only tap halfway, the NPT fitting won't fit and you won't be able to use the rubber seal anymore.

I didn't take pictures of the process, so i will borrow a few picture from Sir Psycho's thread, to describe the procedure: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=3576683&postcount=606

IMG_1992.jpg

IMG_1995.jpg

IMG_1997.jpg

IMG_2002.jpg

IMG_1996.jpg
 
Oil feed line to turbo

The oil feed line to the turbo can be run from two places. From the oil feed hole in the block near the waterpump or from the original oil feed.

The stock oil feed hole in the block is M14x1,5 (metric)
The front oil feed hole is 1/4 NPT
And the oil feed hole in the HE351CW is M12x1.5 iirc
 
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KL-racing header - cutting and welding flange?

The KL-racing header i bought puts the turbo very close to the timing belt and water pump hose and the downpipe very close to the cam cover.

I'd like to space the header and turbo a little more outside for more clearance and less heak soak. I consider cutting and rewelding the turbo flange. If i turn it approx 15 degrees, that should put the turbine housing a little further from the timing belt and the downpipe a little further from the head. That would also enable me to run the downpipe in a straight line and get rid of the bent right behind the turbo.

IMG_1072_zpsnkcex6z2.jpg

Downpipe running along the head at approx 1" (3 cm)

IMG_1073_zpsiiuey27o.jpg

The turbine housing sits less than an inch from the timing belt.

IMG_1074_zpstos9luxm.jpg

Bent of the exhaust manifold a little more than an inch from the coolant hose.
 
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