The Aspirator
It's a girl!
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2003
- Location
- Vinemount, Ontario CANADA
Wow, lots to catch up on! GREAT! Okay, here I go:
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http://www.vipinfoservices.com/john/images/myB230block01.jpg
Due to that I threw a rod bearing. So now I get to build up a new motor of my own too!
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Camshaft choice and absolute redline:
We have 4 different cams available to use for this motor. A-cam, B-cam, K-cam, T-cam. Going by what you said above, how a high lift cam might produce interference, I'm assuming that the K-cam is out of the question. I do like it and the way it reacts, but if we can tailor this motor to a different camshaft then that's cool too! Humm, I just had a though, would you want to shim that cam loosely then to compensate a bit for interference? Or is that kinda counterproductive?
Camshaft choice would undoubtedly have something to do with absolute redline.... right?
T-cam, I dunno, everybody says they're ghey for performance use and that they die off in the higher revs. This is a 17 yr old (almost 18) kid we're dealing with here, he likes to rev, keep that in mind. Although with Megasquirt and Spark, it's super easy for me to put a nasty rev limiter at whatever is needed, so yes, we need to decide that aspect right now.
For now I don't think we'll touch the valve springs, or any part of the head actually (cept the cam). With the stock valve springs it obviously won't rev to 8500rpm efficiently, but what will they do? Would a 7000 RPM redline be too much to ask? I set mine to 6600 the other night with my K-cam 6* advanced and B230F+T, it pulled hard all the way. I really don't know what to expect from this engine buildup. Stealth, I take it that you do know what to expect from it, and I'd like to hear your recommendation.
I'll write more soon, just wanted to submit this before I loose it all from some stupid mistake.
John
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HAHAHAHAHA, I just noticed that I posted this up top. Well guess what? The timebomb finally blew:The Aspirator said:Thanks! This is getting me all excited. I just wish I had this kind of time and money to spend into a rebuild of my motor! Sometimes I feel like it's a ticking timebomb.... .
John
http://www.vipinfoservices.com/john/images/myB230block01.jpg
Due to that I threw a rod bearing. So now I get to build up a new motor of my own too!
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I've read your Pbase site a few times, and understand your thoughts on this. Currently we're just using the pre-90 manifold. I think this will be something that we won't worry about right now, but will probably upgrade with later. Things like the 90+ manifold, bigger intercooler (NPR), bigger injectors, etc. Those are all bolt ons per-say. This round of work and money spent needs to go towards the shortblock itself, and whatever is needed to make it as powerful as possible and as strong as is reasonably possible. The rest can be dealt with later.stealth said:One other thing: are you using an old style exhaust manifold? or a 90+ manifold?
We're using a B21 platform because that's what we have available. Sure we could go out and find a '94 block with oil squirters built in, but in my mind that is money that we don't need to be spending at the moment. From what I've been reading, B21's can be nasty powerful if you build them right, especially when you've got a turbo involved. Sure, more displacement = more power, but for our goals of this buildup, the 2.1L should be plenty. Though for my car, there's no way I'm downgrading to a 2.1L, it's always going to be 2.3L or more.zombiewoof said:Whay not find a B23 or B230 shortblock? I always assumed people built B21s because it's what they had (and weren't rebuilding) or for racing regs. Why not go with the larger displacement?
The pistons are currently spotless. Matt did a very good job of beadblasting them, so they're very clean on the outside. BUT, the ring grooves are still a little bit dirty. THANK YOU for advising against scraping the grooves out. Knowing me I would have spent a good hour with a small screwdriver or pocketknife scraping all the gunk out. Now I'll just let the machine shop handle it.stealth said:...the used pistons need to be CLEAN. not for the aesthetics of 'lookin' purty'; but for the purposes of having CLEAN ring grooves. If the pistons are not already clean; the MS can clean them up so that they look like new. And that cleaning will clean the ring grooves without damage. I do not use ring groove scrapers. The potential for damage to the grooves is so great as to be almost a certainty.
For the oil galleys, do you just use long metal pipe cleaners? Are the galleys straight? How do you wash it out afterwards, just with the garden hose, or do you have your own solvent parts washer? I don't have one, so we'll have to figure something out.stealth said:Who supplies the freeze plugs and intermediate shaft bearings is for you to work out with your MS. I have my MS install the freeze plugs. I could do it; but I am lazy. I install the oil gallery plugs later...after I brush out and thoroughly wash and flush the block and oil passages. That is definitely MY job; and my responsibility to make sure that those are clean. And it is my job to make sure that there are no restrictions to oil flow through the passages.
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Camshaft choice and absolute redline:
We have 4 different cams available to use for this motor. A-cam, B-cam, K-cam, T-cam. Going by what you said above, how a high lift cam might produce interference, I'm assuming that the K-cam is out of the question. I do like it and the way it reacts, but if we can tailor this motor to a different camshaft then that's cool too! Humm, I just had a though, would you want to shim that cam loosely then to compensate a bit for interference? Or is that kinda counterproductive?
Camshaft choice would undoubtedly have something to do with absolute redline.... right?
T-cam, I dunno, everybody says they're ghey for performance use and that they die off in the higher revs. This is a 17 yr old (almost 18) kid we're dealing with here, he likes to rev, keep that in mind. Although with Megasquirt and Spark, it's super easy for me to put a nasty rev limiter at whatever is needed, so yes, we need to decide that aspect right now.
For now I don't think we'll touch the valve springs, or any part of the head actually (cept the cam). With the stock valve springs it obviously won't rev to 8500rpm efficiently, but what will they do? Would a 7000 RPM redline be too much to ask? I set mine to 6600 the other night with my K-cam 6* advanced and B230F+T, it pulled hard all the way. I really don't know what to expect from this engine buildup. Stealth, I take it that you do know what to expect from it, and I'd like to hear your recommendation.
Well, my headgasket blew a few days ago, thinned out my oil, and spun a rod bearing. I think it blew solely because of too much clyinder pressures (18psi from Holset, 9.8:1 compression) because there was no pinging and A/F ratios were happy. This blown headgasket f.ucked up my shortblock, and I'm kinda pissed about it. I do NOT want to have this happen to Erik's engine. It will be tuned very well and eventually get knock sensor ignition retard, so detonation will not be a huge issue. People like to use the HG as a fuse to prevent what.... detonation from squashing a rod on a poorly tuned K-jet car, right? Well if detonation is prevented, what's the harm in O-ringing? Just my oppinion, please argue at will.Doug said:Skip oringing, just use a Copper sprayed Elring gasket. Remeber, oringing keeps the head gasket from acting like a FUSE, this means possible boom big way. Plus, you'll save money.
I'll write more soon, just wanted to submit this before I loose it all from some stupid mistake.
John