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No spark

You need a wiring diagram. I can't decipher a write up.

Next you gotta make sure the computers are powered up. Key on AND cranking. AND grounded properly. Then signal in. (RPM signal).
 
You need a wiring diagram. I can't decipher a write up.

Next you gotta make sure the computers are powered up. Key on AND cranking. AND grounded properly. Then signal in. (RPM signal).

I'll check it out tomorrow. I did clean and verify all grounds. I dunno about finding a diagram, a 740 turbo diagram might be close enough?

Also what happened to volvowiringdiagrams.com?
 
The 2.2 EZK is from a 740...so I have pulled out my Haynes manual for 740.

Without a diagram you are in the dark. How would you even tell if the computers are powered up without a diagram?


Here's a ****ty one. Does it show up? The answer is somewhere in there.

picture.php
 
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The 2.2 EZK is from a 740...so I have pulled out my Haynes manual for 740.

Without a diagram you are in the dark. How would you even tell if the computers are powered up without a diagram?

If my (limited, as it turns out) volvo knowledge is correct, the ECU won't fire the injectors if it knows the ignition isn't firing. I thought the fuel relay would only click if that wasn't the case though. Wouldn't click if it wasn't getting power anyway.

This is doubly frustrating because it was all working in my other car before the wreck. The only time I've suffered no ignition like this was just because of dirty connections. I don't really understand how it all works.
 
Do you have power to the blue/yellow wire to the MAF with the ignition on??

Do you have power to the injectors key on?? (Checked between the injector positive wire and a known good ground)
 
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Disconnect the distributor and the powerstage. With key on, measure and write down these voltages:
1) battery + post to - post
2) distributor harness connector + to - pin (the outer 2, the middle pin is the signal)
3) powerstage harness connector pin 2 to 4 (if you look at the powerstage itself, with the connector facing you, pin 1 is on the right, pin 7 on left)
4) coil #15 pin to battery - post
5) manifold ground bolts to battery + post
Report back with the measurements when done.

Edit: I just looked at the LH2.2 conversion harness doc and there's one more thing to check.
[step 3 of doc] The harness includes a 4-pin cabin connector. The red/white wire in this connector comes from pin#1 of the coil, to your tach.

Check that the existing 4-pin connector in your dash has the red/white wire and that it goes to the tach. If your connector has a different wire, or it's not plugged into the tach (clock pins are a common mistake), then pin#1 on the coil is shorted to something in the cabin. This could cause the coil to not fire.
 
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^^^He knows what he is talking about. Listen and follow.

Pin 2 of the powerstage is ground to the intake manifold. BROWN wire. Pin 4 of the powerstage is BLUE wire and it also powers the EZK. If there is no 12v between pin 2 and pin 4 of the powerstage your EZK, and also your powestage, are not juiced up.

If there is no power to the MAF yellow/blue wire, your LH box is not powered up.
 
For the record, I checked resistance between negative and ground like you asked. With the ignition off it was 18 - so basically nothing, and with the ignition on it was very high.
 
Disconnect the distributor and the powerstage. With key on, measure and write down these voltages:
1) battery + post to - post
2) distributor harness connector + to - pin (the outer 2, the middle pin is the signal)
3) powerstage harness connector pin 2 to 4 (if you look at the powerstage itself, with the connector facing you, pin 1 is on the right, pin 7 on left)
4) coil #15 pin to battery - post
5) manifold ground bolts to battery + post
Report back with the measurements when done.

Edit: I just looked at the LH2.2 conversion harness doc and there's one more thing to check.
[step 3 of doc] The harness includes a 4-pin cabin connector. The red/white wire in this connector comes from pin#1 of the coil, to your tach.

Check that the existing 4-pin connector in your dash has the red/white wire and that it goes to the tach. If your connector has a different wire, or it's not plugged into the tach (clock pins are a common mistake), then pin#1 on the coil is shorted to something in the cabin. This could cause the coil to not fire.

1. 11.85v (ignition on)
2. 10.67v 4.87v
3. 11.84v
4. 11.83v
5. 11.85v

Tacho is not connected. Car doesn't have that 4 pin connector, I wired the switched power and left the other 3 alone for now.

^^^He knows what he is talking about. Listen and follow.

Pin 2 of the powerstage is ground to the intake manifold. BROWN wire. Pin 4 of the powerstage is BLUE wire and it also powers the EZK. If there is no 12v between pin 2 and pin 4 of the powerstage your EZK, and also your powestage, are not juiced up.

If there is no power to the MAF yellow/blue wire, your LH box is not powered up.

MAF power wire- 10.80v
Powerstage 2 to 4- 11.84v
 
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Why do you have two readings for measurement number 2? He asked you to measure only between pins 1 and 3 of the dist plug, key on. 5v?!

Do you have power to the injector positive wire???!
 
Thanks for the measurements. They look surprisingly close to each other for being scattered about the engine compartment.

I expected the #2 (disti) measurement to be ~0.6v lower than the others (due to a diode drop in the EZK +12v power to disti), but yours is a little lower still. Can you measure
1) - battery post to - pin on disti connector (should be ~0.0 volts)
2) + battery post to + pin on disti connector (I'd expect ~0.6v)

For the 4-pin connector are you saying that you did not need to wire up the fat red/yel wire to your fuel pumps? And just needed to wire the red/blk ignition switch #15 wire?

Can you post a link to a greenbook for your car? I don't think I have one.

[edit: BTW, you can't use an ohm meter with the power on. The meter applies its own voltage to make the measurement and, if the circuit you're probing is powered up, it confuses the meter.]
 
Confirmed computers still get power under cranking. The 5v reading is between pins 1/3 of the dist connector, which is what it should be.

Thanks for the measurements. They look surprisingly close to each other for being scattered about the engine compartment.

I expected the #2 (disti) measurement to be ~0.6v lower than the others (due to a diode drop in the EZK +12v power to disti), but yours is a little lower still. Can you measure
1) - battery post to - pin on disti connector (should be ~0.0 volts)
2) + battery post to + pin on disti connector (I'd expect ~0.6v)

For the 4-pin connector are you saying that you did not need to wire up the fat red/yel wire to your fuel pumps? And just needed to wire the red/blk ignition switch #15 wire?

Can you post a link to a greenbook for your car? I don't think I have one.

[edit: BTW, you can't use an ohm meter with the power on. The meter applies its own voltage to make the measurement and, if the circuit you're probing is powered up, it confuses the meter.]

1. 0.014v
2. 1.228v

I just connected to the pump to ignition power for testing purposes, it's disconnected at the moment.

I dunno how useful these could be, but this is what I've found.

1988 diagram http://brickspeed.net/VolvoDocs/240-Diagrams/volvo_240__1988.pdf
1981 diagram http://www.240.se/litteratur/tp30316.pdf
87 740 Haynes diagram http://brickspeed.net/VolvoDocs/740-Diagrams/schematy_haynes_volvo_740_760_od_1987.pdf
 
So turns out some idiot (me) put pins 2/3 back into the dizzy connector backwards after they came out. Swapped em round and nothing changed, did I fry the hall sensor?
 
Does the hall sensor get 12v or 5v power from EZK? I don't know.

I would use a scope to look at the square wave output signal of the hall sensor.
 
With the meter there's just no connection between any of the 3 pins on either distributor. Again, dunno if this is right.

EDIT: Pins 2/3 were swapped, so 12v was going to where 5v should be going, and 5v to where 12v should be.
 
Your 2nd pair of voltage measurements seem OK (probably 2x 0.6v diode drops on power filtering). With this, you have good voltage levels at the connectors (but this doesn't always mean the voltages are good when connected up and running).

I don't know if connecting a hall sensor incorrectly would damage it. On the disti side, are the pins are labelled - O +? If so, which ones were swapped and what are the voltages for - to + and for - to O? I'd also inspect the connectors carefully to make sure the pins will make good contact when assembled (no spread contact fingers, and won't push out).

Can you get to the backside of the connector pins when everything is plugged in? If so, check the - to + voltage again, then measure the - to O voltage while cranking (or when spinning the disti by hand). It should move between 0 and (I'm guessing a bit here) 5volts as the vanes go through the hall sensor gap. If so, your hall sensor is working.

For fueling, the main fuel pump relay on the K-Jet cars use a red/white wire from the coil to turn on the fuel pumps when running. I don't know what the diesels do. Do you have more than 1 red/white wire on pin 1 of your coil? And what is powering the fuel pumps if you haven't connected the big yel/red wire from the harness?
 
Okay, making progress. Distributor is working, switching between 5 and 0v as I rotate it. Injectors are firing every time the hall sensor triggers, so that's working now. Still no spark though.

For testing I just connected the fuel pump to an ignition switched fuse. I'll do it properly sometime. Diesel doesn't have an electric fuel pump. The wiring was there, just not connected to anything.
 
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