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No spark

Nice to see the progress :)

Your harness has provisions for low impedance Turbo injectors and a resistor pack. One wire from each of the injectors runs to the resistor pack connector. For non-turbo high impedance injectors, there should be a shorting plug in the r-pack connector. It shorts all 4 wires to a single power wire. Look that over and see if it's damaged/loose.
 
102kohms on the injector power wire (pin 1) to 4 pole plug pin 3. Same value if I go to pin 5 of the FPR connector. Same for all injectors. Didn't change at all with vigorous harness jiggling.

EDIT: No ballast resistor provisions. My harness is high impedance only.
 
OK, all 4 injectors are wired in parallel. With key off, and all 4 unplugged, check the resistance at connector pin 1 to pin 1 to pin 1 to pin 1, and then the same for pin 2. That will at least check that they're wired together OK and the problem is further down the harness. You can also turn the key on and see if you have +12v power on either pin.
 
Depending on your harness, the injectors may be powered from the fuel pump power. If so, you won't have injector power until the fuel pumps turn on. Are you pumps on all the time -- I think you had wired the cabin 4-pin big yel/red wire directly to ign power. Have you tried wiggling the EZK connector? [gotta go run some errands, I'll check in tomorrow.]
 
Well, took a closer look at the harness guide and wired the yellow wire on the 4 pin to switched power. Injectors are doing their thing now and it fires on gas but I can't get it to stay running.

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Take a look at the plugs. If they are fouled you'll need to clean or change them. If it still won't stay running I'd look at the spray pattern of the injectors. If you still suspect wiring. You may want to make sure the switched power is on during cranking and key on.
 
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Longest run at about 50s. It just dies out. Unplugging MAF and TPS made no difference.

EDIT: So it'll stay running if I mash the gas and keep revs high but it refuses to idle at all. Cleaned MAF/tried a spare.
 
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I'd check the plugs. See what's going on in a cylinder or two. Probably a massive vacuum leak or fouling the plugs from a bad spray pattern. That is the type of symptom a couple of cars that I worked on recently had. Both cars had bad spray patterns fouling the plugs or on the 244 a couple were completly clogged.
 
Changed plugs and ran the injectors through the ultrasonic cleaner. No change. When it does run it sounds like it's firing all cylinders but it just dies if I touch the gas. I did get it idling super high without dying after changing plugs. Then I took the key out and it kept running.

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#1 on top.

It might be running on a little diesel.. It smokes super bad. I couldn't siphon all the diesel, but I got most of it and poured in about 5 gallons of 93.
 
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Those things look beat. Not sure what's up with it running key off. Maybe a different location for one of the power connections for the computers?
 
dl242gt said:
Those things look beat. Not sure what's up with it running key off. Maybe a different location for one of the power connections for the computers?
Click to expand...

Yeah, not concerned about that right now. I disconnected coil power to shut it down. What could cause it to just die out if I touch the gas?

Edit. I was thinking vacuum leak but I'm pretty sure unplugging the maf would allow it to run in that case. Same with tps, should run okay with it unplugged if that were the issue. I'll have to get some white paint or something and verify timing.
 
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Made a lot of progress! Glad it is running.
Acceleration is done by the fuel pressure regulator vacuum port. The ignition computer advancing the timing. The knock sensor can cause problems with the timing being pulled if it's detecting false knock. That will make the acceleration suck. But you are saying it doesn't even rev up and stay running. The plugs looked pretty fouled. I'd like to see one of the new ones after running a bit. I would also suggest if the fuel tank is as you describe. I would put more fuel in there to try and get the mix to be all gas.
 
Well.. I decided to check the oil. I checked it before I tried starting it at all and it was fairly low on the dipstick. Now it's full of gas.

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Due for a change anyway.. I changed the oil like 50 miles after the rebuild and I've just been topping it off and it got a filter change at one point. Probably at least 12k on that oil.
 
ECT is fine, compared against a new one. Found some white paint from my model car build (never finished it) and set base timing to -10. Changed the oil and with MAF and TPS unplugged, after about 20 tries, it caught and ran. Died instantly when I touched the throttle.

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Turns out both the MAF out of the wagon and my spare were bad. Found another buried in the depths of my parts hoard. Now it fires up and revs fine but won't hold a good idle.

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