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Can We Get an Ultimate Parts Thread?

Uh - do any of these suppliers offer any discounts? Free shipping? I just found the following codes - from either other forum/s or Internet search - FCP: 10%, code MVSCC; Volvo Wholesale Parts 10% code MVS, 10% code thankyou. eEuro Orders over $99 5% code MVS. Note: I have NOT verified any of these...yet

Most suppliers have promotions running frequently I usually google coupon codes for a supplier before ordering to see what promotions are going on.

To all: I will update the OP with the last few suggestions tomorrow. Thanks for your contributions.
 
Center support bearing for the larger diameter driveshaft (type 3 I believe) found on my M47 unsure of other applications but for sure all with the rubber guibo at the tranny end.
FCP Euro P/N MTC 183265 at $16.99 is best deal however I found this in stock at a local bearing house so no waiting to ship in or freight added. It's a

Nachi 6009-2NSE9 $23.00 equivalent to



Timken 109FF- $61.99 at AutoZone which they did not have in stock, Advance website was unhelpful at best. Specs from Autozone site.

Bearing Inner Race Bore Diameter (in): 1.77
Bearing Inner Race Width (in): 0.629
Bearing Outer Race Outside Diameter (in): 2.952
 
Center support bearing for the larger diameter driveshaft (type 3 I believe) found on my M47 unsure of other applications but for sure all with the rubber guibo at the tranny end.
FCP Euro P/N MTC 183265 at $16.99 is best deal however I found this in stock at a local bearing house so no waiting to ship in or freight added. It's a

Nachi 6009-2NSE9 $23.00 equivalent to



Timken 109FF- $61.99 at AutoZone which they did not have in stock, Advance website was unhelpful at best. Specs from Autozone site.

Bearing Inner Race Bore Diameter (in): 1.77
Bearing Inner Race Width (in): 0.629
Bearing Outer Race Outside Diameter (in): 2.952

Yep. Japanese made Koyo ran me $25.

OD
75 mm
ID
45 mm
Width
16 mm

6009-2RS
 
Euro Parts House

I don't see these guys listed yet: www.europartshouse.com/

They have some decent NOS parts and new for 240 and 740 940 at good prices. Good part interchange info too. Based in Independence, OR, so more likely of interest to the West Coasters...
 
Not certain but you should be able to find Moog at Napa and that, they usually have grease zerks where the eom ones don't.
 
Moog & NAPA used to be at LEAST decent quality; sometimes good bits. NAPA still does have some good stuff- but its more sketchy than years ago. LOTS of Chinese caca in jobber supplied "tools".

Moog was at one time top drawer stuff. Maybe they still are in some circles; but I just yesterday can say that at least the closest NAPA has ZERO ball joints; Moog or otherwise THAT ARE GREASEABLE- for 700/900's; not Moog or anyone else.
I've indeed become even more jaded that not one ebay seller- nor an unskilled search of ANYWHERE even makes them. PLEASE PROVE MY SEARCH SKILLS WRONG?

If anyone knows of a new ball joint design that isn't a sealed unit design; meaning I can get the ball and socket apart without ruining it; I'm going to hopefully, unless the socket os just too hardened to be accepting of a tiny grease path ground in...

Idealistic? I'd rather take a few extra minutes and be able to wash away wear flotsam away with fresh grease; wipe out old grease with fresh and reduce friction WON time. Beats ball joint replacing over and over, but I don't REALLY know if carbide would wilt in cutting grooves. Surely it's not that stout; anyone know if a groove is feasible; or which even can be taken apart?
 
Moog & NAPA used to be at LEAST decent quality; sometimes good bits. NAPA still does have some good stuff- but its more sketchy than years ago. LOTS of Chinese caca in jobber supplied "tools".

Moog was at one time top drawer stuff. Maybe they still are in some circles; but I just yesterday can say that at least the closest NAPA has ZERO ball joints; Moog or otherwise THAT ARE GREASEABLE- for 700/900's; not Moog or anyone else.
I've indeed become even more jaded that not one ebay seller- nor an unskilled search of ANYWHERE even makes them. PLEASE PROVE MY SEARCH SKILLS WRONG?

If anyone knows of a new ball joint design that isn't a sealed unit design; meaning I can get the ball and socket apart without ruining it; I'm going to hopefully, unless the socket os just too hardened to be accepting of a tiny grease path ground in...

Idealistic? I'd rather take a few extra minutes and be able to wash away wear flotsam away with fresh grease; wipe out old grease with fresh and reduce friction WON time. Beats ball joint replacing over and over, but I don't REALLY know if carbide would wilt in cutting grooves. Surely it's not that stout; anyone know if a groove is feasible; or which even can be taken apart?


You do realize that with a greasable balljoint, there is the ability to introduce MORE dirt into the joint, right?? There is nothing wrong with sealed units, and I'm sure the Moog sealed units will last just as long as OEM. They are also designed to retain teir greas ebetter than a greasable joint, which allows for slightly better control of tolerances. They're still built to high quality standards.
 
Moog ball joints for 240s, I buy 'em on Amazon! Greasable, still excellent quality.

Dealers, speak to Anthony at Tasca out side of Boston. He's fantastic--and you get to listen to the accent too. I know, what accent, right Boston?

On the opposite coast, talk to Mark Carpenter for mail order sales at Turner in Sacramento. NO accent. But then, I'm in L.A.

Both of these are listed elsewhere in this thread, just providing my preferred contacts. I deal with both regularly and they offer superior customer service. On the other side, I have nothing good to say about three mail order transactions with a certain dealer in Houston. Maybe their walk in service is good.
 
avoid Advance Auto Parts. They hardly carry anything for our cars to begin with, and I recently got sold some defective copper gaskets that led to my turbo oil inlet fitting draining a quart of oil on the ground. Not to mention the fact that most often the staff are hardly familiar with volvos
 
Seen mention of URO parts being worthless but how about Meyle?

Needing to replace bushing on my front end.
 
I have had good luck with Meyle on many things. I don't endorse them 100% though. Certainly better than a lot of the ScanTech stuff was. Their rotors are a very good buy. I haven't tried the strut mounts yet, but am tempted. Especially since the Volvo units no longer say Volvo and I'll bet aren't SKF at all any more.
 
That's good to hear, I think I'll make an order for OE front control arm bushings and meyle strut mounts this weekend.

The front end rattles have got to stop and I don't want to put new tires on wacky suspension!
 
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