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Uncleknucklez 242 road ripper

I'm a fan of what you've done. A Holset would ruin it.


Not to worry gents, car will not have a Holset, or any major changes anytime soon.

Great read, thanks for sharing!

Love the build so far

Thanks for the kind words!

I climbed under the car the other night, to take stock of the output leak at the trans. This seems really bad. What would cause this? I'm planning to pull the trans today, and break it down to determine the extent of the issue.

https://youtu.be/gzUgu_ya5B4

The plan as of now is to do the bushing and seal in the tail shaft, and a new slip joint.
 
That it is, Aaron, has been awesome throughout, supportive, knowledgeable, He actually came through Sacramento a week after I got it back on the road and got to take it for a drive, he loved it!

Can attest to my awesomeness LOL. jk

I dropped in and saw what chris did and I was stoked. The thing RIPS and he has totally kept the vibe I had in mind, and made it his own.

Keep up the good work man.
 
Dude, mod it to your heart's content!

Don't get me wrong, I love it how it is, but if you want to do more, who are we to tell you not to? It's your car.

The only thing I would say is maybe lower the rear more. I kinda like the aggressive rake, though.
 
Trans is yanked. I'm getting pretty good at this. Also noticed some oil in the bellhousing, so I will pull the flywheel and take a look at the rear main. I just so happened to buy flywheel bolts and a rear main not too long ago.

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While I'm in there, I'm going to lower the pivot ball in hopes to lower the clutch engagement a little from the tippy top of the pedal.
 
Threw the trans on my bench this AM, found that the rear shaft bushing was loose? It stayed behind as I pulled the rear housing.

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Are there better bushings and seals than others? I found a cheapie kit on fleabay http://r.ebay.com/SvOytV

Also, the slip joint is worn on one side, but not the other? There's something def wrong with this setup, I'm going to do more detective work to determine what's up.

In other news, who can tig weld a v band to my 15g housing? Im still fighting the studs out, but that's also part of my plans while the car is down.
 
ooof.

Did the bushing spin in the housing??

Yep, Only thing is I didn't know once they do that, the output housing is pretty much junk.

SO, I slap in a new bushing, thinking this one is good to go, put the car back together take it for a handful of trips around town, no leaks, my garage floor is clean, nice!

Turns out, I was wrong. The second bushing slipped, trans fluid all over the bottom of the car again. At least it is rust proof now.

I got a new housing, bushing (number 3), and seal from a local trans shop, put it back together again, and it has been hanging tough so far.

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Drove around a while, but decided the vibrations were bad enough that it is time to try and tackle that issue. Now my garage looks like this, again....

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I have the trailing arms out to shorten, I have some adjustable heim/poly torque rods i am going to try, I found an Aerostar 3" aluminum drive shaft to slap in (13 lb weight saving over the Mustang unit).

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I also got the Vband welded to my 15G, and will build a new 3"DP to match

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That is where I am now, need to weld the trailing arms, work on pinion angle (again) and cross fingers I can get most of the vibrations out of the car.
 
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Super job !!! I gotta do something with the a/c too, but for now I need to finish the in-tank high pressure fuel pump and I got an extra fuel line to finish the fuel system.
Keep up and don't give up'
DZ
 
Nice work on the v-band. That 3" pipe looks like a monster vs the stock diameter:lol:

I had a hearty laugh when I first saw that!

Super job !!! I gotta do something with the a/c too, but for now I need to finish the in-tank high pressure fuel pump and I got an extra fuel line to finish the fuel system.
Keep up and don't give up'
DZ

The A/c still has not been charged, I thought it would cool off and would be a non issue for now, but it?s still in the mid 80?s here, and I?m second guessing my decision to put off the charge.

That weld does look great for the vband, but may I ask why you welded it on the inside instead of the outside? Or did you weld both? Any plans to port it out closer to 3"? Car looks great btw.

The clamp would hit weld on the outside, so I tig?d it on the inside only, time will tell if that was the correct decision.

If I put it off long enough I may end up attacking it with a carbide bit and work on it a bit, but I?m not too concerned with it as of now. I?m still drilling out the GD studs that were stuck in there. They?re fighters for sure.
 
Thank you for taking the time to make a proper thread with a clear storyline and great photos. This is exactly the type of account that got me hooked on TB in the first place, about 10 years ago. The forum seems to have gone downhill in real Volvo content but that's likely due to proliferation of social media. Anyway, thanks again, because we need more of this.

Great to see this car ended up in good hands and that you've put many miles on it. When I was considering getting my B230FT swap BAR ref'd I was corresponding with Chewy about this car. My engine is from a 1994 940 Turbo, but I had been advised by another friend to say that the donor car was a 1991 740 Turbo, since that was the last year the B230FT was available with a manual trans in the US, otherwise it would've been necessary to include the auto trans with the swap. I don't know if they could've verified the model and year from numbers on the engine, for whatever it's worth. But the physical hardware in the emissions system would all be the same.
 
Thank you for taking the time to make a proper thread with a clear storyline and great photos. This is exactly the type of account that got me hooked on TB in the first place, about 10 years ago. The forum seems to have gone downhill in real Volvo content but that's likely due to proliferation of social media. Anyway, thanks again, because we need more of this.

Great to see this car ended up in good hands and that you've put many miles on it. When I was considering getting my B230FT swap BAR ref'd I was corresponding with Chewy about this car. My engine is from a 1994 940 Turbo, but I had been advised by another friend to say that the donor car was a 1991 740 Turbo, since that was the last year the B230FT was available with a manual trans in the US, otherwise it would've been necessary to include the auto trans with the swap. I don't know if they could've verified the model and year from numbers on the engine, for whatever it's worth. But the physical hardware in the emissions system would all be the same.

I appreciate the kind words, I feel like this thread is a throwback to when the builds were builds, and men were men :rofl:

I have since learned that I probably told them the wrong car when I went to smog it, like you said, 1991 740 Turbo was the way to go. And someday I may still try that.

FWIW, they checked the cat number, EGR operation, vacuum diagram, and ECU numbers, as well as the actual emissions test.
 
Update time,

As it turns out the source of my major vibrations were a steel Drive shaft adapter that apparently wasn't well machined. Anyways, tossed on a new Yoshi adapter, Ford Aerostar Aluminum driveshaft, and all is well again. While everything was apart, I shortened the rear trailing arms 3/4", and built some Adjustable torque rods that are a heim/poly setup.

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I finished the interior off pretty much by replacing the last piece of tan interior, the Sunroof piece.

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Then I drove it a bunch

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Added a "Turbo" badge to the grill

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And drove it to the Pacific (Stinson Beach)

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It has been returned to Daily status as I sold my other car. I started a new gig just last week, so I'm glad to be at a place that I am comfortable with the car. Plans are still in effect to install the 15G and finish off the 3" exhaust. But for now, Just driving :oogle:
 
Any pics of how you shortened your trailing arms? I'm assuming it was to center the wheel in the wheel well for better clearance?

I did it for a couple reasons, The drive train angles aren't ideal, and in order to get pinion angle correct, I had to tip the flange up more than I was able to with the stock setup, the wheels rubbed the back of the arches.

I don't have any pics, But i just picked a spot, cut them in "half" (not really half) and slid the small part into the big part and welded top and bottom. Because of the angles the arms are formed at, when you cut them, they fit into each other just about perfect at 3/4" overlap.
 
Did you add any bracing or box them in at all? I'm sure the overlapping weld is plenty strong, I'd just be nervous about it and would probably add a plate on the top.
 
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