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Eco Bricks

bumblebeeman

New member
Joined
Sep 26, 2012
Location
Petaluma
Im looking for more info on builds that are getting 35+ MPG. have searched what seem like endless threads but I'm not finding much. I know this info is out there. does anyone have it bookmarked??

Thanks

BBman
 
Im looking for more info on builds that are getting 35+ MPG. have searched what seem like endless threads but I'm not finding much. I know this info is out there. does anyone have it bookmarked??

Thanks

BBman
Lol, You're fighting quite the coefficient of drag to try to get 35+ mpg out of a brick shaped object. I think the 240 is around .45 coefficient of drag, my greatly more aerodynamic Toyota (.32 cod) with a 1.8 with modern engine management and far better flowing head and manifolds and a 6spd MT only gets 33mpg with a very light foot on the highway.
 
Lol, You're fighting quite the coefficient of drag to try to get 35+ mpg out of a brick shaped object. I think the 240 is around .45 coefficient of drag, my greatly more aerodynamic Toyota (.32 cod) with a 1.8 with modern engine management and far better flowing head and manifolds and a 6spd MT only gets 33mpg with a very light foot on the highway.

not arguing with you, but I remember at one point Eco Bricks was a club within Turbobricks and you needed to be able to confirm you were getting at least 30 MPG I believe. I'm just looking for info. In my old RSX I used to easily get 34.. but were not talking JDM were talking redblocks....
 
I regularly get 34-37 mpg city/hiway mix year in year out. 1985 745 D24T/M46, running full synthetic 5w-40 in the engine, dino type F ATF in the M46, dino (90W?) in the differential, Goodyear 195/65-15 Wintergrip Ice @35PSI.
 
A diesel is a good way to get it done. maybe I should do a diesel swap? anyone to there running a Waste Veggie Oil Diesel powered brick?

I regularly get 34-37 mpg city/hiway mix year in year out. 1985 745 D24T/M46, running full synthetic 5w-40 in the engine, dino type F ATF in the M46, dino (90W?) in the differential, Goodyear 195/65-15 Wintergrip Ice @35PSI.
 
Best of 6.5L/100k or 36mpg in my 1990 245. That's almost all highway, 235/45/16 continental dws06 tires, 3.73 gears, Mitsubishi 4d56t diesel, fmic, 3" exhaust, water meth injection. Can't remember the ratio of 5th in the transmission (km132) but it's about 2900rpm at 110km/hr
 
Just get one of these, without a working IMA battery, 55mpg is without even trying.

wheel1.jpg


40-45 mph no stops nets

110mpg.jpg
 
I sister gets 30+ on normal running around in her beater 240. On a run just over 35MPG. Other than removing the cat and lowering it is pretty much how it left the factory - just years of battle scars
 
If you're going to cheat and go diesel then yeah you should make your goals. Just add 10 mins eta to every trip.
If I have to add 10 mins eta to every trip it's not because the D24T can't keep up; it's because of increasing traffic gridlock in a rapidly growing city with severely lagging infrastructure improvements. Which probably means my MPG average would actually be higher if it were not for so much stop and go in the mix.

BTW how is this cheating? Factory stock, all tuning is in factory spec. (timing, injector pressure, injection pump fueling settings, etc.). The only improvement over as-delivered condition is running synthetic oil in the engine, which was not available in 1985.
 
A diesel is a good way to get it done. maybe I should do a diesel swap? anyone to there running a Waste Veggie Oil Diesel powered brick?
I ran WVO, from 2005 - 2011. During that period, my avg. MPG for petro diesel was in the 70-90 MPG range, mixed city/hiway.
I wouldn't recommend a diesel swap just to incrementally raise your MPGs. Unless of course you are wanting a steampunk-type project for kicks. :oogle:

Wasn't member Cwazywazy putting a MB 5-cylinder in his brick?
 
If I have to add 10 mins eta to every trip it's not because the D24T can't keep up; it's because of increasing traffic gridlock in a rapidly growing city with severely lagging infrastructure improvements. Which probably means my MPG average would actually be higher if it were not for so much stop and go in the mix.

BTW how is this cheating? Factory stock, all tuning is in factory spec. (timing, injector pressure, injection pump fueling settings, etc.). The only improvement over as-delivered condition is running synthetic oil in the engine, which was not available in 1985.

Dude, I'm just joking around, if you want to run a stinky 2 timing chain or is it belts? diesel VW motor have at it. Diesel soot is bad for human breathing though.
 
If you're going to cheat and go diesel then yeah you should make your goals. Just add 10 mins eta to every trip.

That new Cummins engine is the same HP as the b21ft - with 100 ft-lbs more torque.

Pretty sure you would subtract 10 minutes.

And get 30 MPG+
 
That new Cummins engine is the same HP as the b21ft - with 100 ft-lbs more torque.

Pretty sure you would subtract 10 minutes.

And get 30 MPG+
Did anyone get a price on a new Cummins engine, because a reman 4BT is north of $7K? How much bensin can you buy for that kind of money? How many 740T's can you buy for $7k?
 
I sister gets 30+ on normal running around in her beater 240. On a run just over 35MPG. Other than removing the cat and lowering it is pretty much how it left the factory - just years of battle scars

Your gallons are much bigger because your pints are 20oz, quarts 40oz....while ours are 16oz and 32oz...that's a whopping 25% bigger-er. :oops:

Your 35 is our 26.25 Em Pea Gee
 
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