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240 '89 244 Warm Stall

volvoboy90

sanna kärlek är svensk
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Location
Dayton, Ohio
'89 244 B230FT Lh2.4 Ostrich T5 Swap

Alright, so I know this is really crappy weather to try to diagnose this, but I would at least like an area to look at. I have an issue with a stutter/stall issue on my 240 that only happens when warm. LH brings up a 1-4-4 and a 2-2-4 code, indicating a load signal fault and coolant sensor fault. Is this a open and shut case of my sensor has failed, or is there something I can check to diagnose this problem and be sure?

Thanks ahead in advance.
 
A load signal fault should have you checking the connections between the two computers. There are some signals sent between the ezk and fuel ecu the load signal is one of them. The coolant sensor should be temp at three temp ranges. Colc, partly warm, and fully warmed up. I've had snesors that go open circuit when warm. This could cause a code and it will also make the engine revert back to a cold engine rich mixture. Thus causing stalling. There is a chart for checking the sensor in the Bentley or Haynes manuals as well as the greenbooks.
 
A load signal fault should have you checking the connections between the two computers.

Totes

For sure start pinning out your harness, and verifying all the grounds are in good shape, I chased a weird coolant temp issue, Never stalled, but ran rich intermittently when the car would lose the CTS signal, turned out I had an issue with grounds that I found AFTER I ran a new set of wires for the CTS outside of the harness.

The grounds for LH and EZK are the two eyelets bolted to the intake manifold. If you peel back the covering you can see about 5 wires junctioned to 1 wire with a crimp connector. I flowed that connector with solder and my issues went away.

Food for thought, LH is not very clever, and the code reader never really pointed me in the correct direction.

Also warm stalls make me think of my bad intank or lift pump as well.
 
Dont trust LH codes. About the only one that's usually legit is the mixture code. Maybe the MAF one too, sometimes...

Hot stall makes me think powerstage or crank sensor.
 
Concerning the pumps, both are good, the in-tank was replaced about 4 years ago with new oem unit from IPD, and the main pump was replaced shortly after with a new unit as well. This doesn't "feel" like a fuel starvation, more of an ignition cut out, or misfire. I can usually give it just a couple seconds and restart with no problems until it decides to mess up again. Crank sensor is newer, too, it's only about 6 years old. I also ran new wires to the ezk for the CPS, back when I was trying to diagnose this before the transmission swap.
 
The original wires weren't, they were in the harness with the rest, and ran through the firewall. This problem predates me running the wires, this was something I did to try to fix the problem.
 
So I switched out the fuel relay in an attempt to remedy this, since it seemed to only happen when the interior was warm, this may have helped? Will still stall, but I have noticed that when it does, and I go to restart it, the fuel pump won't prime at first. Sometimes takes a few tries before I hear the pumps prime and I'm ready to go again.
 
Check for bad fuse holder by the battery. It sounds like the LH system may not be getting power intermittently.
 
I replaced the battery terminal and fuse holder itself a couple years back because I thought it was faulty. How much of a pain is it to replace the whole damn wire?
 
Found it. I believe it was a mix between bad fuel relay, and the years old terrible wiring I did when I moved my maf to pre-turbo. Since the wreck a few years ago, I had a remnant from the a/c sitting on top. It seems that with the light pressure, it will cause the stall.
 
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