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Who builds complete B230 race motors?

LS swaps aren't off topic, because they're mentioned specifically in the OP.

Just be honest with what you're trying to accomplish. Redblocks are great motors, and they respond well to modest mods. They can also do well with serious mods, but at that point, you have to step back and ask if you're using the correct tool for the job.

And depending on what sort of HP you want to end up with, at some point, it's going to make more sense, both from a $$$$ spent, and a resulting reliability standpoint, to go to an LS swap. More and more people are making parts to make these fit into a 240 these days, you don't have to be a super fabricating wizard to get it done.

If you go LS, perhaps a cheap/free rebuildable core isn't the best starting point. There is something to be said about a factory built engine that's been used for 80 - 100K miles, vs. one that's been entirely gone through recently and rebuilt to an iffy spec. Either through people shaving costs, time, or just not quite knowing what they're doing.

Think about spending a little more to get a good motor you can use as is, without touching the bottom end. Personally, I think the various aluminum 5.3's are the under appreciated motors in the LS swap realm now. Hot rod guys are less enthusiastic about them because they're the 'small' motor. But they're lighter than the common steel blocked versions, barely cost any more (and a lot less than the big alu blocked versions), and once you swap the cam/do valve springs they make lots of HP.

With the right cam, you're looking at 350-ish lazy WHP. And while I'm not a good example of how to make a fast high-HP redblock, my experience with 350 whp redblocks is that they're very highly stressed motors. They do kick ass, but odds are that their ass is going to kick them sooner or later. The higher the HP went in mine, the shorter the interval was in taking it apart to fix something again. From split cylinder bores, to broken wrist pins, to blown Cometic HG's (repeatedly, sigh).

Eventually, I just decided to 'level up' and put an LS in it. It costs a bunch even if done cheaply (compared to doing similar budget stuff with an engine that does actually belong in the car) - but the results are bigger/better. At least, I hope, lol. Mine isn't running yet. I'm hoping for something like 550 - 600 hp out of mine (smallish single turbo on an alu 5.3).
 
Yeah that has been a concern of mine. I'm hoping for a motor that you can just drop into my car and all the stock stuff will work.

LH2.2 and LH2.4 will work just fine at higher CRs and longer duration cams. Not ideal, as the stock timing curves are lazy.

My DD has a B-cam with the head shaved .04in, and it runs just fine on regular fuel. This is how the car should have came from the factory.

Kyle (klr142) is running a pretty hot b230 in his daily, and in their chump car. All using lh2.4 with chips.

Yea but then what was the point? At least get some modified chips?

100% this.
 
It is a tough decision especially since it sounds like you will have a shop do the work.

If shop, then I support a healthy 16v B230 setup. Would be a street screamer where back road essess puts a big smile on your face. Combine John's bottom end with the 16v head and I think you would have a winner.

If you go LS with a shop, it will get expensive fast. There is just too many custom parts and work to be done IMO. The LS engines are dirt cheap no problem there. ~400HP flywheel easy with a 5.3 and cam swap for under $1000. The cost per HP is stupid low. Again engines are cheap, it is all the other stuff that adds up. But 400HP on 225 tires is a smoke show on demand!

To the OP, what are your plans for the car? Street or track or? really 250 for a corner carver is plenty. Actually 400 on the street is overkill as well.
 
There are some real advantages to 16v...but so far the way virtually every one I've seen done by everybody misses the point by a mile...

Its not that complicated of a point. Not sure how it can be missed by a mile. Most mess it up by trying to fix a head that isn't broken.

Real cams on those heads require solid lifters and sadly the only solution there is shim under bucket lifters. Expensive and very time consuming. Really, just a general pain in the ass.

what are "real cams"? We do plenty good on hydro lifters. You will be needing a good deal of head work to take advantage of a cam with enough lift to require solid lifters. Its not an 8v.
 
I gotta 16v turbo fully already built race squirter motor in for sale! 3500, picked up at my house. Did I say already race built? Pistons and rods bought from RSI and motor put together at M&B machine shop near racetrack. Fully balanced 2.5L steel stroker crank with longer then stock H beam rods and custom wisco 16v turbo pistons for longer rods. Forged H beam rods bought from RSI, longer then stock. Forged custom wisco 16v turbo pistons to match longer then stock rods. Factory boat 16v PZ cams.

Head already has ford valve springs put in it bought from Yoshifab..

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=335890&highlight=sbabbs
 
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I gotta 16v turbo fully already built race squirter motor in for sale! 3500, picked up at my house. Did I say already race built? Pistons and rods bought from RSI and motor put together at M&B machine shop near racetrack. Fully balanced 2.5L steel stroker crank with longer then stock H beam rods and custom wisco 16v turbo pistons for longer rods.

Head already has ford valve springs put in it bought from Yoshifab..

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=335890&highlight=sbabbs

Sounds good price..But turbo and the guy says he wants n.a.
And to make things harder he says standard gearbox and axle ratio.
That make a big limitation>

Just curiosity now since this ain't what he's asking for, what cams? What c-c rods?
 
A stock 90+ b230 bottom end with a 16v head and well sorted is comparable to a stockish b230ft but with more farty sounds out the exhaust
 
If you didn't know you can buy a stock volvo 16v boat NA b230 motor, 171 horse power. Look for AQ171c or AQ251, same b230 with 16v head, better cams also then car 16v heads. Also it's 2.5L with steel stroker crankshaft.

I've bought a couple, to race em NA nothing is really needed I don't think, maybe stiffer valve springs for higher rev?
 
Real cams on those heads require solid lifters and sadly the only solution there is shim under bucket lifters. Expensive and very time consuming. Really, just a general pain in the ass.

AGAP Camshafts for the engine family
Volvo B23/B230
There are three different series of valve lift profiles for this engine.
1: Street series
For standard bucket cam followers with diameter 33 mm shim. Similar aggressiveness as for Volvo
original camshafts.
2: Race series for 33 mm standard bucket cam follower
These are more aggressive and have different ramp design than the street series.
3: Race series for 37 mm bucket cam follower
Need to be used together with a bucket cam follower of minimum diameter 37 mm.
The camshafts are made to order and the valve lift profiles can be combined as the customer wish.
We can assist and recommend a camshaft to your engine combination, if you supply us with data on
your engine.
Parameters
Total duration Number of crank angle degrees the valve is are open at 0 valve lash
Rated Duration Number of crank angle degrees the valve is open from the point
where the ramps end, which is at about 0.5 mm valvelift
Duration 1.0 mm Number of crank angle degrees the valve is open at 1.0 mm lift
Duration 0.05? Number of crank angle degrees the valve is open at 0.05 inch, (1.27mm) lift
Lift Maximum lift in mm at 0 valve lash,
Max engine speed Max engine speed if used together with standard spring, valve etc.
Base circle Volvo original is 36 mm, with a smaller base circle lash caps will be needed
to achieve correct valve lash. These figures shall be considered as rough
Street series
The least aggressive profiles, designed similar to Volvo original camshafts.
To be used with original bucket cam follower, with diameter 33 mm shims. All profiles have 36 mm
base circle.
Street Total
duration
Rated
Duration
Duration
1.0 mm
Duration
0.05?
Lift
(mm)
Max engine
speed (rpm)
AGAP G-225-11.0 360 260 233 225 11.0 6500
AGAP G-234-11.5 368 268 242 234 11.5 6700
AGAP G-242-12.0 376 276 250 242 12.0 6800
AGAP G-253-12.5 388 288 261 253 12.5 7000
AGAP G-265-13.0 400 300 273 265 13.0 7300
For all the above valve lift profiles, recommended valve lash is 0.3-0.4 mm on warm engine.
Race series
These lift profiles are more aggressive, which opens the valve faster for maximum power. The
stresses in the valvetrain will be higher which will slightly limit the expected life time, they are also
more sensitive to valve lash adjustment. Therefore they are most suited for rally and racing engines.
There are one series for 33 mm bucket cam follower, and one that needs an bucket cam follower
with minimum diameter of 37 mm.
Race Series 33mm Total
duration
Rated
Duration
Duration
1.0 mm
Duration
0.05?
Lift
(mm)
Base circle
(mm)
AGAP R33-238-12.0 328 263 244 238 12.0 36
AGAP R33-243-12.4 332 267 249 243 12.4 36
AGAP R33-254-13.0 344 279 260 254 13.0 36
AGAP R33-262-13.4 352 287 268 262 13.4 35
AGAP R33-264-14.0 352 289 270 264 14.0 34
AGAP R33-273-14.0 364 299 279 273 14.0 34
AGAP R33-274-14.5 364 300 280 274 14.5 33
NEW AGAP R33-280-15.0 368 305 286 280 15.0 32
NEW AGAP R33-287-15.5 376 313 294 287 15.5 31
NEW AGAP R33.295-16.0 384 321 302 295 16.0 30
Race Series 37mm Total
duration
Rated
Duration
Duration
1.0 mm
Duration
0.05?
Lift
(mm)
Base circle
(mm)
AGAP R37-251-14.0 340 276 257 251 14.0 34
AGAP R37-258-14.6 348 283 265 258 14.6 32
AGAP R37-267-15.3 356 292 273 267 15.3 31
AGAP R37-275-16.0 364 299 281 275 16.0 30
AGAP R37-279-16.0 368 303 285 279 16.0 30
AGAP R37-283-16.0 372 307 289 283 16.0 30
AGAP R37-287-16.0 376 311 293 287 16.0 30
AGAP R37-291-16.0 380 315 297 291 16.0 30
For all Race Series valve lift profiles, recommended valve lash is 0.3-0.35 mm on warm engine.
For the higher lift profiles some grinding in the cylinder head might be needed to gain clearance.
Always control that there are sufficient clearance between the valves and piston before starting the
engine.
Price, camshaft with any of the lift profiles 3120 Skr +VAT = 3900 Skr
Different lift profile on exhaust/intake, add 400 Skr + VAT = 500 Skr
Camshaft Examples
R33-262-13.4, Lobe separation angle 109 degrees
Suitable camshaft for 2300cc turbo engine with 33 mm bucket cam followers, use 44/35 mm valves
or bigger, expected maximum power engine speed 6000 rpm.
R33-264-14.0, lobe separation angle 104 degrees
Suitable camshaft for 2300cc NA engine with 33 mm bucket cam followers, use 46/38 mm valves,
expected maximum power engine speed 6000 rpm.
R37-279-16.0, lobe separation angle 105 degrees
Suitable camshaft for race engine with 37 mm bucket cam followers, use 46/38 mm valves or
bigger, expected maximum power engine speed 6000 rpm. Cylinder volume 2300-2500 cc
Suitable engine
Valve lift profile Lobe Sep.
Angle
Valve size (mm)
Intake/Exhaust
Max power
engine speed
NA/Turb
o
Cylinder
volume
AGAP R33-262-13.4 109 44/35 6000 Turbo 2300
AGAP R33-264-14.0 104 46/38 6000 NA 2300
AGAP R37-279-16.0 105 46/38, 48/40 7000 NA 2300-2500
 
If you didn't know you can buy a stock volvo 16v boat NA b230 motor, 171 horse power. Look for AQ171c or AQ251, same b230 with 16v head, better cams also then car 16v heads. Also it's 2.5L with steel stroker crankshaft.

I've bought a couple, to race em NA nothing is really needed I don't think, maybe stiffer valve springs for higher rev?


"Nicer" but still remarkably limp dick...lazy..
For fun n.a. you want something made with the intention of fun...not wheezy stuff that really is lame..
Something like
Styles_Cosworth_block_and_Pistons01.JPG


The difference is obvious..

Also since nobody mentioned it--since nobody here really makes actual high performance n.a. 4s---
TB performance guest-star Erland Cox has stated that the intake/exhaust flow in the 16v flow is skewed to the exhaust side which flows like 92% of the stock intake.. The long and short of it is that it should be in the mid 70s %...Kinda hard to make the exhaust flow less so make the intake flow more..He says a 38 or even 39mm intake valve can fix that problem..
And of course some real cams..

With a little work and real cams you can do this:
http://www.topplocksverkstan.se/volvo16vrc.html

Volvo16vRc%20Pipemax.gif


Cams:

Nedan lite Pipemax ber?kningar p? Volvo motorn.
Med 2.4 liters slagvolym hamnar maxeffekten n?gonstans runt 320 hp vid 8600 RPM. L?mpliga kamv?rden f?r rallycross: 306 107 14,5 5-6,0ot in & ut 290 107 11.0 3,8ot.

"below is a little Pipemax calculations on Volvo motor
with 2,4 liter volume the power ends up around 320 hp at 8600 rpm
Suitable cam values for rallycross (where you want a LOT of torque to launch hard out of slow corners) Intake: 306* duration , 14,5mm lift 5 to6mm intake valve lift at TDC
Exhaust 290 duration, 11mm lift, 3,8mm exhaust valve lift at TDC"

Of course you don't have to go that nuts but stock cams..meh!
 
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