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EGR System Removal.

Steve940Estate

New member
Joined
May 17, 2007
Location
Hampshire, England
When I fitted the turbo engine into my car I decided to remove the EGR stuff. I did this partly to simplify things (less to go wrong) and to stop the build up of any exhaust soot etc in the inlet manifold.
I have been having problems with intermittent high idle speed since and have started to think removing the EGR might be causing the problem.
As far as I know the engine management system allows for the exhaust gas and alters the ignition timing and mixture. I think my car is doing this but because there is no exhaust gas going in it is confusing things.

Has anyone had similar problems of could confirm what I am thinking. I either need to get hold of a non EGR ECU and ICU or re-fit the EGR valve. I would rather not re-fit it as it will mean swapping the inlet manifold over although it won't end up costing anything.
 
I just did the EGR Delete on my wagon. No issues whatsoever. Find yourself a 149 ICU (or the appropriate euro-spec non-EGR ICU) and you should be fine. The ECU actually has no effect on the EGR on the LH2.4 cars.
 
I deleted the EGR from my 1996 940 a couple of months ago when i did the head gasket. I removed the metal pipe and valve that snakes around the engine block. I blocked up the hole in the inlet manifold with a penny jb welded over the hole. I left the Electronic control box on the suspension turret connected up and removed all the hoses attached to it.

Havent had any problems at all with my idle speed.
 
Thats interesting. I found some info that suggested timing advance and "decreased fuel injection duration" but is wasn't Volvo specific.
I'm not sure what is causing the idle speed problem and wondered if the EGR removal was possibly the cause.
I drive at around 65-70mph for about 40 minutes and when slowing down notice the idle stays up to around 1100 rpm whilst changing down and sometimes sits there whilst stationary for a while before dropping to normal.
I was wondering if the ECU was "learning wrong" whilst driving and then getting confused when idling again due to the EGR stuff not doing what it should.
I have checked most other things now but still wonder if the throttle switch has an intermittent fault.
I will maybee keep an eye out for another ICU and give that I try.
 
I deleted the EGR from my 1996 940 a couple of months ago when i did the head gasket. I removed the metal pipe and valve that snakes around the engine block. I blocked up the hole in the inlet manifold with a penny jb welded over the hole. I left the Electronic control box on the suspension turret connected up and removed all the hoses attached to it.

Havent had any problems at all with my idle speed.

Cheers for the reply, I'm clutching at straws really. I have left the control box/valve off and haven't had any codes saying there is a problem. The car seems to run ok apart from the idle speed thing. My MPG isn't the best either but I think that might be due to me using the extra performance I have now.
I want to up the boost a bit and have a play with the timing to see if it will go a bit faster but if I can't get it to run properly there isn't much point yet.
 
I've noticed the random high-idle thing as well, but I KNOW my IAC motor is a little sticky and the TPS may be a little as well as it's the original one from the car. Either of those (or the TPS being right on the edge on it's adjustment) could cause the high idle. If you just bumped something enough to where the TPS isn't always closing then the ECU won't control the idle speed. Not having EGR on our cars won't have any effect on the idle speed as long as the ports are blocked off.
 
I didn't think it would but I have spent hours cleaning and resetting the throttle, and swapping bits to no effect. I have sat with the TPS connected to a meter whilst operating it to see if it worked every time and it seemed ok. I might splash out on a new switch just to rule it out, the idle control valve is spotlessly clean and they aren't cheap so that can wait for now. I have tried another one on the car but things were the same.

There have been a few people in the UK with similar problems. If the electrically operated valve got stuck it would have the same effect as disconnecting everything. I wonder if anyone else has had a problem.
 
As far as I know the Auto ECU expects to see a result from the EGR, the manual one doesn't. On my car I removed the pipes and blocked them off, but left the rest plugged in. That though is a factory manual.
 
As far as I know the Auto ECU expects to see a result from the EGR, the manual one doesn't. On my car I removed the pipes and blocked them off, but left the rest plugged in. That though is a factory manual.

Thanks. My car should be completely standard manual turbo spec now apart from the EGR. Thinking about it I'm not sure if the valve is controlled by the ECU or if it sends a signal to it that is operated by manifold vacuum. I wonder if re-connecting the vacuum pipes and plugging the valve back in will fool the ECU, if thats what is causing the problem.

Thanks for everyones comments, I might get somewhere in the end !
 
Hi
I have read on here about grounding pins to alter ignition timing but haven't see anything about the EGR. I have just been looking at the control unit pin identifications and there doesn't seem to be any on the ECU, but the ICU does.
Volvo list different control units for cars with or without EGR so something must be different.
 
There's been various threads about how to disable the EGR, but nothing really conclusive. From my understanding, there's not a difference in ECU's between auto and manual, since the 2.4 stuff has no control over trans functions.

Just for the heck of it, did you already unhook the vacuum line that ran from the manifold to the vacuum controller on the fenderwell and cap the port on the manifold?

Have you checked for leaks on the IAC motor hoses? I've had the wonderful luck of having a leak in one of the hoses that was covered up by the hose clamp, which took me a while to find, and I only found it when the hose removed itself from the rest of the hose when I got into the boost at around 17psi. Talk about a fun drive home.....
 
Hi
I found the ERG kill thread on here earlier and though I had hit the jackpot and found a posssible fix. Read through and realised it wasn't unfortunately.

When I put the engine in the car I took everything off and blanked the exhaust manifold. I swapped the inlet manifold for the one off my old non turbo engine. This doesn't have the hole for the EGR pipe. I didn't fit the vacuum lines or the control valve either. Strangely I don't have any fault codes or check lights. My EGR system doesn't seem to have the electronic temperature sensor on it so perhaps the controllers don't know it isn't there.
I'm pretty sure all the hoses are ok as I had everything off to clean up. I will have a look round again just to make sure though.
 
There's been various threads about how to disable the EGR, but nothing really conclusive. From my understanding, there's not a difference in ECU's between auto and manual, since the 2.4 stuff has no control over trans functions.
Correct.

But...

On the phase II 940's the EZK is different depending on if it is automatic or not. 207 and 219 EZK number.
 
I'm beginning to whish I hadn't started this now :lol:

I have a parts list and for the 1995 b230ft there are 3 Volvo part numbers listed

3517369 manual or auto without EGR (also used on earlier b230ft)

9135590 manual with EGR (also used on manual b230fk)

6842449 auto with EGR (also used on auto b230fk )

Are these thought of as Phase 1 or 2 EZK.
 
I'm beginning to whish I hadn't started this now :lol:

I have a parts list and for the 1995 b230ft there are 3 Volvo part numbers listed

3517369 manual or auto without EGR (also used on earlier b230ft)

9135590 manual with EGR (also used on manual b230fk)

6842449 auto with EGR (also used on auto b230fk )

Are these thought of as Phase 1 or 2 EZK.
This is what it meant by phase I and II:
The Phase 1 940 is the 1991 to late 1994.
The phase II 940 is the 1995 to 1998 (never sold in the US).

3517369 = 0 227 400 148 Normal turbo EZK (both manual and automatic).

9135590 = 0 227 400 219 Manual turbo EGR EZK.

9135590 = 0 227 400 207 Auto turbo non-EGR EZK.

You can also find all of this info in my FAQ thread.

Which ECU and EZK numbers do you have? (The EZK and ECU numbers do not look like the ones you posted. Those are the part numbers from Volvo's part number system). The correct ones look like this 0 280 000 xxx (ECU), and 0 227 400 xxx (EZK).
 
Yes the numbers I have listed are Volvo part numbers. I will have to look at the car to see what the Bosch numbers are as I didn't write them down.

My car is manual now. I was going to just do a gearbox swap but after driving the turbo car just had to do the engine as well.
The fact you have asked if it's auto makes me wonder if the ECU and EZK have ever been replaced with the wrong one.

Just thought I would add that I have cleaned the throttle switch, Idle control valve and mass air meter connectors up properly and the car seems to be behaving better at the moment.
 
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