EGR System Removal.

Yes, please check what EZK and ECU numbers you have in the car now. Then I can tell you what you need to do.

And one more thing: The car was NA before, right? Then disconnect the wire for the TPS that goes to the WOT switch. That is not used on turbo cars.

Didn't get a chance to check the numbers today but will do tomorrow hopefully.

I think as I have swapped the engine looms over I have the right one for the turbo engine , I will check to see though.

Well, I thought the car was ok but today it played up again. It had high idle when cold and didn't want to drop down until the car was stationary. Not sure this has anything to do with the EGR, perhaps it's the ECU temp sensor or a bad connection to it.

I checked the Bosch part numbers.

1995 940 B230FT Manual with EGR (Removed)

EZK. Bosch Number 0 227 400 219

ECU. Bosch Number 0 280 000 962

Steve940Estate said:

Well, I thought the car was ok but today it played up again. It had high idle when cold and didn't want to drop down until the car was stationary. Not sure this has anything to do with the EGR, perhaps it's the ECU temp sensor or a bad connection to it.

I checked the Bosch part numbers.

1995 940 B230FT Manual with EGR (Removed)

EZK. Bosch Number 0 227 400 219

ECU. Bosch Number 0 280 000 962

Click to expand...

The 219 EZK is an EGR EZK.

As a quick fix you can get a normal whitelabel 148 EZK to replace it with.

But keep the 219 until the day you want to chip the car.

Sorry for bringing up an old thread but I have recently had problems with a high idle and also have deleted the EGR, I actually left everything plugged up just removed all the piping swap manifolds and all and now I have a check engine light for the EGR no flow code 241, it says it causes poor idle, mine's high on Startup and then driving in traffic when I come to a stop it almost wants to shut off then jumps back up I don't know if this is related to EGR or not but it seems to have had this problem since, does anybody know a definitive way to get rid of the EGR check engine without getting chips

Also engine swap happened and the high idle is still there even from the old engine to the new engine, it seems to idle around 800 before the check engine light comes on then after that about a thousand to 1200

YEah as fred stated put in 148 eZk box.

Or take egr light out of dash...

Just put in a 148 EZK. That way, it will eliminate the EGR system all together and you keep the check engine light, which has to be there if you have emissions testing where you are located. It's nice to have the warning system of looming trouble headed your way.

I was hoping to just connect some wires or something..but okay that's cool, looks like ill make a trip to the jy real soon.

But honestly I should just invest in chips...if chippable thats the route I will go