Redwood Chair
- Stock PSI Or Bust -
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2007
- Location
- Ocean Beach S.F.
bring even more cash !!!
What are you trying to do, get this one locked too?
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bring even more cash !!!
You mean if I run the gauge manufacturrers recommended wire gauge size ?
Or step up to larger gauge wire than they recommend to ya? And what is linked polymer wire sheathing ?
I just use automotive wire from A/Z or Adavance & use old Volvo wire sheathing I strip off parts cars.
I suppose that cross brace stays at outside ambient temp and transmits absolutely no heat to the diff cover, right? I think not. It's gonna transmit some heat to the diff cover is what it looks like to me.It's not bolted to the diff, its merely a cross brace tying the two pipes together.
Durrrr now you get it. See post 23.
Interesting info. but unless it'll fit my diff, it's not gonna do me any good.most of the aftermarket BMW covers have more fins and allow more fluid.... supposedly the one above lowered the race temp 55? over using the factory aluminum finned cover...
Well, if I had my own Brideport & a CNC milling machine, and my own foundry, I guess I could. But alas, I don't. Would be extravangantly expensive to have one custom made also.If you want it to work at all you should consider making a finned aluminum cover like I posted on the last page, or like the MB or Datsun one above. Not just a "ribbed" one, but one with actual heatsink fins on it.
I suppose that cross brace stays at outside ambient temp and transmits absolutely no heat to the diff cover, right? I think not. It's gonna transmit some heat to the diff cover is what it looks like to me.It's not bolted to the diff, its merely a cross brace tying the two pipes together.
Durrrr now you get it. See post 23.
Interesting info. but unless it'll fit my diff, it's not gonna do me any good.most of the aftermarket BMW covers have more fins and allow more fluid.... supposedly the one above lowered the race temp 55? over using the factory aluminum finned cover...
Well, if I had my own Brideport & a CNC milling machine, and my own foundry, I guess I could. But alas, I don't. Would be extravangantly expensive to have one custom made also.If you want it to work at all you should consider making a finned aluminum cover like I posted on the last page, or like the MB or Datsun one above. Not just a "ribbed" one, but one with actual heatsink fins on it.
And Ken, why ya want my thread locked?
I guess I'll just have a hot diff.
YI just use automotive wire from A/Z or Adavance & use old Volvo wire sheathing I strip off parts cars.
TB has the most talented troll.
Color me amazed that so many of you actually responded to this thread seriously.
TB has the most talented troll.
Color me amazed that so many of you actually responded to this thread seriously.
I suppose that cross brace stays at outside ambient temp and transmits absolutely no heat to the diff cover, right? I think not. It's gonna transmit some heat to the diff cover is what it looks like to me.
In free air, the transfer of heat is going to be piss poor...think of it this way...you can stand outside naked in 50? if you had to for a while...in water you'd be dead in a short time.
Air is a decent insulator, it has an R value of approx R-5 , not too bad
That and figure when the mufflers are going to be the hottest, air will be flowing past them, at idle, they won't be as hot to transfer any heat to items off to the side (most heat will travel up
You took my statement the wrong way. I KNOW the finned covers help cool diff oil. Give me a break duder.
It was said it had no cooler/cooling of diff. I pointed out that is what the finned cover does.
And if you can find me a finned cover like that for a 91 240 diff w/ elec. speedo hook up, I'd appreciate it. But no one makes them. At least I cannot find anyone who does. So looks like buying a finned cover for mine is pointless advice. Why I was trying to come up with something else.
Find a cheaper aluminum on, have a bung welded to it, does not matter if cast or billet, still weldable.
Interesting info. but unless it'll fit my diff, it's not gonna do me any good.
Again, this why I'm was trying to come up with something else to do same job.
Well, if I had my own Bridgeport & a CNC milling machine, and my own foundry, I guess I could. But alas, I don't. Would be extravagantly expensive to have one custom made also.
I have all 3, just no desire to make something like that..too many other useless projects to work on 1st.
I guess I'll just have a hot diff.
$39 at Harbor Freight, is within 2? of my Cole-Palmer K-Type Thermocouple Thermometer and 1? of my neighbors DeWalt infrared unit. Can be used in the kitchen as well so the wife shouldn't complain about more tools since she too can use it !!!
I'll see if I can get an infrared temp reading on our diff housing at the 24hr lemons race @ charlotte.
$39 at Harbor Freight, is within 2? of my Cole-Palmer K-Type Thermocouple Thermometer and 1? of my neighbors DeWalt infrared unit. Can be used in the kitchen as well so the wife shouldn't complain about more tools since she too can use it !!!
I'll see if I can get an infrared temp reading on our diff housing at the 24hr lemons race @ charlotte.
Nope, not just a finned rear cover.but that is part of what gave me this weird idea. But....no one makes Volvo diff rear covers for the electric speedo diff cover anyway.
Let me explain my idea. And keep in mind, it's just an idea that crossed my mind when I noticed those holes in mtg flanges on the diff.
Now... on pass side of diff. hsg. on my 91 244 there are two mounting flanges with drilled & tapped holes in them. One hole on each flange.
I was wondering .....what if i made a thick steel plate to bolt to one or both mtg flanges.Drill & tap it for small bolts to screw into said plate. (if floorpan clearance will allow it)
Then cut some short 1/8" long or so ,small diameter sleeves for spacers.
Find, or fab some thin sheet aluminum.
Cut them into same size pieces.
Drill holes in a pattern, so as to allow them to be stacked(like fins on an oil cooler) 1/8" apart.
Bolt the bottom plate to the thick mtg plate that'll attach to diff mtg holes.
I'll end up with a series of stacked aluminum fins to use as a convection cooler that'll maybe dissipate heat away from diff hsg, thereby (possibly) cooling the diff & diff oil temps.
Only problem is, not sure how large said cooler would have to be ,to do the job. I'm thinking not enough room under there for this thing to actually do any cooling of diff. But I'm thinking it might be worth investigating?
I need to read up on heat loss/heat gain formulas I suppose. I doubt this idea of mine will be very feasible/worth the effort.
And I'd have to investigate on exactly how to mount it for proper clearance/air flow. Like I said, just a weird idea that "popped" into my head.
See pic below and notice the star drivers are inserted into the threaded holes where mounting flanges are already cast into the diff hsg.
Now..look at this pic. This is a pic of my 91 240's diff.
The block and cam cover materials are..immaterial, since the liquid cooling going on by far surpasses the radiation of heat from those parts.Hmm, cast iron engine block gets hot & so does the cam cover. Must be some cast iron to aluminum heat transfer going on there I'd think. I know the engine oil is part of it
Even on a Harley engine, the old ones had cast iron cylinder & aluminum head. Both had fins. Both dissipated heat.
While my idea surely isn't as effient as a pump & oil cooler, seems like it'd do some cooling if the fins were big enough & placed in decent airflow.
But maybe not..........and like I said, it was just an idea I came up with.....
And folks before suggesting all sorts of silly solutions we really ought to concentrate on the supposed problem and if it needs a cure...
First things first and all
Crazy idea time , I'd add a bolt on fin assembly to the rear of the drive shaft to "blow" air across the diff housing