• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

(formerly) The $700 1988 245

So I fixed a vacuum leak which got rid of the weird cold idle, but now it's doing that thing again where it dies when falling to idle while warm. Also I put in some gauges so I can be informed. It's idling and cruising at around 12.5:1 and if I even go near boost the wideband pegs at 10:1. If I go past 1/2-3/4 throttle the engine starts surging cause it's running so ridiculously rich. (6psi boost)

mpUlXX1h.jpg

0TezFgCh.jpg


I love how controllable the car is in snow. Effortless drifting. There's no more understeering tendency without the heavy diesel.

Underskirt pic, because why not.

zuo9AuHh.jpg
 
I boost leak tested and only found two tiny leaks at vacuum lines. The cheapo BOV doesn't leak at all, surprisingly. So I put the boost controller back on and it rips. Still pegs the wideband at 10 but no more surging or anything.

Getting another MAF to try because even if the current one isn't bad I need a spare. o2 sensor isn't very old at all, I replaced it like 2 weeks before the accident.
 
Cwazywazy said:
I boost leak tested and only found two tiny leaks at vacuum lines. The cheapo BOV doesn't leak at all, surprisingly. So I put the boost controller back on and it rips. Still pegs the wideband at 10 but no more surging or anything.

Getting another MAF to try because even if the current one isn't bad I need a spare. o2 sensor isn't very old at all, I replaced it like 2 weeks before the accident.
Click to expand...

I'm wondering if the surging was some sort of low boost compressor surging that the computer wasn't able to compensate for.

Are you running 2.2 or 2.4?
 
vwbusman66 said:
I'm wondering if the surging was some sort of low boost compressor surging that the computer wasn't able to compensate for.

Are you running 2.2 or 2.4?
Click to expand...

2.2. I got a new MAF in it today and now it's running pretty much exactly like it did in the wagon. 14.5-15 idle and cruise, 10-10.5 in boost. A quick base idle adjustment mostly fixed the stall issue.

But now I'm having some issues with my hot spinny thing. Occasionally it spits oil onto itself somehow and smoke comes in through the firewall harness hole. (I lost the grommet.) Happened one time when I drove it earlier. Also boost fell from 16 to 11psi, somehow.

2SPg4pBh.jpg


Also when I was running the overdrive wire under the carpet I found a dollar and a rusty set of keys to the car.
 
Clutch started slipping pretty badly today..

M47 dogdish with stock PP and Cali Clutch smooth lock pro with sprung hub. Probably like 10k on the setup.
 
So I can't figure out why but now most of the time it's running super rich. Wideband at 10.0 idle and cruise and wot. Rich enough to see black smoke. Occasionally it starts running fine for a minute or so before going back to uber rich. I cleaned the maf, got rid of the blowoff valve, etc. I checked the ecu temp sensor about a month ago and it was fine. What could cause this?

Occasionally the engine will sputter and die when I'm trying to take off. Starts back up fine.

kfyOQ8nh.jpg
 
ECU temp sensor was bad, no connection to ECU at all. Replaced it and verified wiring, works fine now but no noticeable difference. Replaced o2 sensor with a lightly used one I had and it runs better, but still not what it should be. Went from 10:1 pretty much all the time to about 12.5 idle and 11.0 cruise. Still pegs at 10 in boost.

D6YHfj0h.jpg

aBg0twHh.jpg


Also, my horn setup with my dented Hellas:

3ZxEY9vh.jpg
 
Ugh.. More broken stuff..

Wideband started reading dead lean at the Wendy's drive thru. Restarted the car and it read normally for a minute or so before going back dead lean. Messed with it a little in the driveway and now it's showing a constant 14.7. Verified good power to it. I've been running it for a bit over 2 years and this is the first time I've had an issue with it. (AEM 30-4110 UEGO)

Also the clutch started slipping at low boost. I have a new Sachs turbo clutch kit and tranny seals, I just don't have time..

Horns work nicely tho.
 
So I noticed when the car was running badly the boost gauge was twitching a little without me moving my foot, so I unplugged the IAC and it ran great. (Relatively, anyway..) Kinda confusing since the IAC works fine at idle and the problem doesn't go away if I drive with the TPS unplugged.

Also accelerating like the car still had a D24 got really annoying so I went ahead and took the trans out. Very oily.

1cvHuxuh.jpg

51NL7eTh.jpg

AZzl84Kh.jpg

88UjOxeh.jpg


Gonna have to replace the pilot bearing (Slightly crunchy if I put a load on it) and I'm gonna guess that I should probably get the flywheel surfaced.

But I probably won't.
 
1onIPwgh.jpg


:-(

Lasted 6 owners, 3 decades, and at least 313k..

Also the bread pilot bearing trick is totally legit. I tried wet toilet paper first which didn't really work, but that end slice that nobody eats popped the sucker right out.
 
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/isXuwsxMCaQ" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

D3ZZJ7th.jpg

2XEgAcNh.jpg


I think the accident may have broken my 19t.. Or maybe I did it banging it around during the engine swap. Either way, I need a new center section.

Clutch works good tho. First gear shake is gone. Turbo is still making about 15psi too.
 
So I popped my old 15g CHRA and cold side housing onto the 19t exhaust housing. It's so quiet now. I can't hear turbo noise at all. What I can hear is the engine pinging. With the MBC unscrewed all the way it shoots up to about 10psi and creeps up from there. By 16psi the AFR is about 11-11.5:1 and it starts knocking. I was running at 16psi with the 19t and I never heard knock.. However with the boost leak the gauge was pegged at 10 while WOT. So that probably helped.

19t carnage:

Kesll4vh.jpg

UTxfVToh.jpg

sLbofckh.jpg
 
Last edited:
HatredSerge is going to be selling his 244 m47 in April- its a minty solid car that would be worthy of getting these guts.
 
vwbusman66 said:
HatredSerge is going to be selling his 244 m47 in April- its a minty solid car that would be worthy of getting these guts.
Click to expand...

I wanna try and get this thing minty, just to see if I can. The rear wheel arches and the rear drivers quarter are the most concerning areas. The spare tire is held in by Bondo and pretty much nothing else.

Also if I ever buy another 240 it's definitely gonna be a 245. I miss wagon lyf.
 
Had an interesting failure today. Noticed a thwacking sound and after awhile I decided to check under the hood. Right after I recorded this video the belt skipped and it quit running. Belt is roughly a year old and probably has around 10k on it.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/DPPRMseTuf0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

bjZAqL7h.jpg

XZZ9WPDh.jpg


Thank god for AAA premium and non-interference engines.
 
Interior is gutted. There's a small hole in the driver's side just forward of the B pillar and some significant rust on the passenger floorboard where someone missed the jacking point and smashed the floor in. Also the whole rear drivers floor pan is surface rusted. I'm just gonna patch it up, paint it with POR15, put down a bunch of sound deadening, then put in nice clean carpets. Gonna run wires for speedo and fuel pump while I'm in here.

Only found 20 cents..

oSiIXpqh.jpg

gwRGrfVh.jpg

1M8v9dAh.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top