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Canadian 1984 244 DL B21A/B6304 project log.

I sold my MS2 V3.57 which I hoped to use on my 5 cylinder B5245T5..... but from a LOT of study of MSExtra, I determined that it could not effectively fuel sequentially, which is what the 5 & 6 cylinders do with MOTRONIC. From my investigation it takes at minimum MS3 Pro I believe, to handle sequential fuel. MS2 can handle the spark fairly easily.... just not fueling. I won't try to batch fuel the whiteblocks.

Chat with LANKKU over in Finland.... he has mastered these 6 cylinders and transplants to earlier Bricks.
 
The 960 harness/ecu I have is an early one (94), so it's M1.8, which is batch fire. The wiring diagram shows that the injectors are run by only two INJ outputs from the ecu. I do love playing with sequential fueling, but batch is just fine with small injectors. I'd gain a bunch of smoothness if I went to MS3 or MS3X/MS3pro, even on batch, but my budget is just not able to handle the upgrade this year.

I'm really hoping to have this running by july, so I'm going to have to make up my mind soon.
 
One disclaimer about Homer mounts though. If you're using the AW30-40e (like I am), you need to tweak the auto dipstick slightly, because it rests FIRMLY against the side of the trans tunnel, just underneath the brake booster kinda. It's bolted to the bellhousing, so I just removed the bolt and pried a bit with a screwdriver. Just enough to give it 1/8" clearance so I can actually get the stick out. Maybe it's just the way I did my trans mount, but it's worth keeping an eye out anyway. This is not a criticism against the Homer mounts, promise. I know they're originally for a manual car, so the auto introduces a minor variable.
 
Solved a minor issue. I want the stock coolant gauge to work, but the 240 coolant gauge sensor doesn't have anywhere to go on the B6304S without extra work. Mine is an early engine, so there's a sensor on the back of the head (between the engine and firewall) for the ECU and a sensor up front in the thermostat housing for the 960 gauge. I don't want to use the rear sensor, because it's in a horrible spot if anything happens, but my thermo housing only had one port. I found a 99+ ME7 thermo housing from a 2000 V70T at the junkyard...and it has two ports.

DOOZxdn9_o.jpg


The top port is M12, and the lower port is M10. A GM coolant temp sensor from virtually any GM between 2000 and 2010 also seems to be M12 (or the caveman equivalent), and fits right into the top port. I pulled one from an LS truck motor, since they're really easy to access. Driver's side head, right in front. In the lower port I put a VW/Audi coolant gauge sensor (part # 027 919 501), which apparently has the same range as the stock 240 one. It's marked 120*C on the side, and so is the stocker. Time will tell.

If it's not obvious yet, I've decided to run MS2 on this instead of the stock M1.8 box. I feel that it'll be simpler to get everything up and running, and I can harvest all the connectors I need from the stock harness.
 
Those GM LS coolant temp sensors also fit redblocks in place of the stock CTS. That was my plan for the megasquirt anyways..

I was wondering what years those t-stat housings came on. I don't really want to hack in a 960 temp gauge in my cluster. Not keeping M4.4 long term, if at all. Mine might be getting a turbo right off the start.
 
Figured out my ignition today. Since I'll be running MS2 (v3.57), I'm not going sequential injection (too kludgey on MS2 IMO). This leaves me with waste spark, which I'm fine with...but I wanted to keep it simple. I was going to use the ME7 COPs with the three logic outputs I have, but then I found out that the S/V40s have a neat little wasted spark COP setup, which is pretty much the same as the 960 stuff, but with a second spark output. I can use one of the M1.8 power stages without any extra splicing :). I've always liked this style of COP, so I am going to try it out.

I figure why not, the worst that can happen is that it doesn't run. :)

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I hadn't until today, haha. I was checking all and any volvos I could find at the yard, and decided to stop ignoring the 40s. Imagine my surprise when I found those coilpacks, and that they came with the same connectors as the 960 ones do. I now have all new connectors that aren't rotten or brittle. The stock coil valley cover won't fit over them, but that's no big deal IMO.
 
I had to change the arrangement of the coils, so that the proper cylinders would be paired. This required some different plug wires...and of course, my local yard had no pre-99 cars to pillage. I made due with some wires off a MK4 VW 2.0L, which happen to be a direct fit (although I did have to cut the rubber seals off the top of the S40 wires to use them on the VW wires). Turned out reasonably decent, so I'm happy. I'm not much of a 'tidy and tucked' guy when it comes to my engine bays, so I'll probably leave it uncovered. I have an 'easy to work on' fetish, so I like having everything right out in the open.

C0l5HWXA_o.jpg
 
Modded the cannibalized injector harness and stripped down the coil harness to three connectors and one power stage. I'm committed to MS2 now...I've hacked up the stock M1.8 wiring.

The stock M1.8 inj harness has a very odd arrangement: 6,5,3 on one bank, and 4,2,1 on the other. I like to have my banks alternate while firing so I swapped 3 and 4 around. The new wiring is: 6,5,4 and 3,2,1.

This weekend is a getaway trip with the wif, but once I get back...it won't take me long to wire it up :).
 
Well, it runs! :omg:

I REALLY hate VR sensors for triggering, and may yet swap to a crank wheel with a hall sender. I'm getting some sync losses, of the 'reason 2' variety, and every time it misses, the damn ecu seems to reset. I'm using a brand new harness, everything is shielded properly, the trim pots are set to '0', and I'm using a 10k inline resistor. I tried a 270ohm shunt and a 1k ohm shunt, but it didn't get any better than just the 10k alone. I'm going to try bumping that value up a bit and see what happens.

Now I just need to order a new dipstick (again...), get a new alternator, sort the too-short driveshaft, get a high-pressure PS line made, etc etc etc.

Still, I'm pretty damn stoked to hear it vroom. The B6 with open headers is LOUD, lol.
 
Thats exciting! I've been trying to get my C10 done and out of the way so I can get started on my B6 swap..needs to be done before winter at least.
 
Video proof of it running :).

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RLH7g5xkgWY" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

It still needs a ton of work, but I didn't want to go much further without confirming it was a decent engine, and that I had the wiring right. Considering this is a totally untuned MSQ, without the trigger angle set (put it to 90*), and no fuel adjustments...it fires up pretty well. I had a bunch of sync losses to work through, and I hate VR sensors because they're so damn 'dirty', but I got no losses on that startup :).
 
Thanks!
I've been around all sorts of uncorked cars before, but I had to have earplugs in for this video. There's just something about the specific frequency of that engine that made my head hurt, lol.

I realized I erred though, so credit is due to The Poi for his MSQ. The one in my MS2 is based on his, so it's actually a 'tuned' file. That would explain how it revs so nicely.

This is what the bay looks like now. I've cleaned up the wiring as much as I could, but I'm still pretty happy with it. The stock plug cover will fit, with a tweak or two.

x7YAAzaO_o.jpg
 
It's been a ****ty week, so I've been spending time in the garage swallowing my feelings.

The engine is buttoned up, and all fluids have been filled. I broke the d**n dipstick again, so I have no idea how much oil is in it...but I know there's at least 6L. The replacement shows up this week so I'll check it then. Next up is to finish the tranny cooler lines, driveshaft spacer, hook up the shift linkage, and install the PoiShifter.

lG5CSFeB_o.jpg


Yep, there's no timing belt cover. I hate not having quick access to important parts of the engine, and I've NEVER had issues running without them. Maybe it'll happen one day, which will be an easy diagnosis/repair...since I won't have to disassemble anything to fix it ;).
 
I like the more finished look of having all the covers on the engine, besides it's super easy on these engines to just pull the cover. Nothing like a Honda where you gotta pull all the drive belts and crank pulley just to get the timing cover off.
 
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