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Old 10-09-2018, 07:17 PM   #26
Martin L.
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Turbo and NA are the same. I dont know about Autozone, but these are some of the filters I know of.

Mann W917
Mahle OC204
Hengst H10W22
Bosch 0451103219
Mapco 61062
Filtron OP568
Purflux LS900
Purolator L19216
Tecnocar R61
UFI 23.127.02
WIX 51311
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Old 10-10-2018, 04:09 PM   #27
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I'm going to temporarily sideline the car until the timing belt & misc. arrive from IPD. It's currently stuck waiting for the MANN air filter to restock, so it's a bit frustrating! I guess I can sort out the reg paperwork in the meantime.

Might pick up some other bitsa from the local Volvo dealer in the meantime: Door lock button, maybe brake pads, and OEM oil filter so far. Anything else worth buying over IPD?
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Old 10-11-2018, 12:43 AM   #28
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While I have you all here, the engine only leaks while it's running and immediately after it's shut off. Is that a sign of a rear main seal leak? It's otherwise bone dry. The engine also didn't leak until after the oi change. No clutch slip either.

EDIT: I've done some homework and I'll probably poke around under the car during the timing belt change. Just wanted to see if any of you have been in this situation.

Last edited by snailmale; 10-11-2018 at 01:12 AM..
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Old 10-11-2018, 02:32 PM   #29
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If you are positive it isn't a valve cover gasket leak it is most likely a rear main seal on the cam. There is a possibility it could be a head gasket compromised in a certain way but I find the chances of that unlikely.

Clean it well with some heavy duty degreaser and let it dry. See if you can toss some baby powder or flour or something to give a clear visual of leakage if it is hard to see the contrast. Have a friend start it and see where the leak is originating from.

Pro tip: If you spray your engine with water when it's warm, be sure to mask off the distributor well or steam will get in there and condense. Then you have a fun mystery misfire, but pulling the cap and wiping it dry fixes that.
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Old 10-11-2018, 09:12 PM   #30
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Thanks for the help so far. The rear cam seal feels pretty grimy and I was staring at the trans bellhousing/engine mounting point with the engine on and it was not leaking. Still gotta feel it while the motor's running. That's probably going to get added to the shopping list once I get my IPD box. Looks like I don't have to pull the engine, so that's a nice way to end the day.

I also noticed the a 2016-dated belt which at least indicates the car was at least cared for and a sign the seller wasn't making it up.

Apologies if it seems like I'm so obsessed with this one issue. The Bentley manual's in the mail and I just want to tackle some of the more obvious issues.
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:19 PM   #31
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Don't sweat it. There is a perfectly logical explanation for what is going on. We will use the ol scientific method and figure this out. I have 4 mann oil filters on hand, but any filter will do for the time being.
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Old 10-14-2018, 08:12 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Hacksaw116 View Post
My thoughts are new fuel pump and filter for sure, with a vehicle that old. Might total around 100 bucks, but well worth it to eliminate issues at this point. Make sure your fuel, spark, and air has a solid foundation. Also, there is an in-tank fuel pump that is really fun to replace, but I think the main inline pump does most of the work so if that's new you will be ok for a bit. Replacing the in tank pump will extend the new inline pump's life quite a bit. My kids are screaming and I need to deal with parent issues so I'm cutting this short.
I tried the flametrap fuel pump test. Took fuse out, ran jumper.

Left side: Pump works!

Right side: Silence. Some sparks, but silence.

Guess that means a new in-tank pump + filter is on the list. Any point in replacing the high-pressure pump as well? What I know of this car suggests it's a pretty recent incident.

Here's to hoping IPD gets that Mann air filter back in stock, because it's holding up my order with the brake pads. Brakes are nice to have! Might just cancel it, I want this car back on the road.

Last edited by snailmale; 10-14-2018 at 08:20 PM..
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Old 10-17-2018, 02:44 PM   #33
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Call IPD and tell them to ship the pads separate. They are usually pretty easy to work with.

If you think the inline pump has recently been replaced you might get away with just the in tank pump. My 240 wagon is in the same boat I think. I just replaced the inline pump and filter under the drivers seat, and the new pump still sounds like a swarm of angry hornets in a coffee can.
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Old 10-17-2018, 03:12 PM   #34
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I'd get the "upgrade" version of the tank pump.

I had issues where the stock replacement tank pump would not provide enough volume of fuel to the high pressure pump causing the main pump to buzz. The upgrade pump moves more fuel and has been keeping my main pump quiet for several thousand miles.

Ref (starting at post #19):
http://www.forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=170882
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