Budget 350hp b230fk build (9.3:1 compression)

can you still change the spark plugs with that header?

DurableSwedish said:

can you still change the spark plugs with that header?

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Hi, yes possibly I'll need to make a small adapter piece with a shortened socket but it should just about clear. There is about 50mm between the top bend and the header so the clearance should be good

Welding commences - tips are welcome!

With a little reworking the top turbo is now in perfect alignment, valve cover work will require to take of the compressor housing now, but no biggie


The final manifold with numbers added for determining what to weld when, order of operations so to say. Took a while to figure out, but all sections with a line though them will be welded in full first and then attached in the order of numbering hopefully haha


I've been running into annoying porous welds, even though I'm running plenty of gas (7.5L/min not excessive for inside). The issue seems to arise when the weld pool gets red hot and breaks through the other side of the tube (is oxygen able to pass throug?) I am not running a backpurge since my setup is currently not capable and this should be possible like this with mig (yes I know, will boroscope and grind everything inside afterwards)


With less heat and extensive cleaning after sandblasting, and messing with the settings for a colder weld pool the results became better but the porosity is still there


The inside looks good however, little cleanup required


I'll be fighting another round tonight where I'll try the Tig on a Mig technique of stacking dimes with pulse welds, and hopefully that will solve my problem which I believe is caused by the heat. Any other theories as to the cause are welcome, since I'll be buying more steel from the looks of it haha

Welding much better, shiny parts

After a few discussion with friends from the motorsports association I was suggested to look into a little more gas flow, since this has been a known issue with our welder. I also determined not grinding in a V groove and setting the digital mig approriately to 2.1mm worked wonders with the new gas flow at 9-10 L/min. Purty


I also made good use of my new belt sander, to take care of the outside welds, since I'll be heatwraping them and the fitment is already quite close. Since I got good penetration on these thick walled pipes, I'm not to concerned about strength, and with my new settings, the pinholes were completely gone after fixing one spot where I forgot to keep the torch aligned for the post weld gas


I also welded up the first of the flanges, and will be treating these afterwards to some dremel love (also bought a chinese endoscope tooly), I'm really stoked on how the divider turned out!


I'll be welding and porting the sections for the coming weeks to have it hopefully together before the end of the month since the car is going into storage again for winter

With the exhaust off, I decided to also pre-invest in some nice new studs and copper coated exhaust nuts, to keep the seal nice and tight

Fixed all my images once more, and little forgotten update

Hi All,

I just fixed all the images by moving them over to imgur instead of photobucket with their scam. So the thread is readable again

I also forgot about posting the oil pump installation here so a quick summary here, I got one of the prototypes that casey made and a more detailed install description can be found on his max effort oil pump thread here:
Oil pump mods: max effort





A pretty cool piece, we'll see how it works out. I've also recieved a sheet of 1.5mm sheet metal to start the timing cover and baffled oil pump build, so updates on that and the mani soon.

A bit of everything

In the last week before the usual winter storage I took a bit to measure up the size for the plenum with the ITB's. It looks like I'll have about 10cm or about 4" for the intake trumpets and the plenum before I run into the brake servo, so I have something to aim for in the design this winter.


Another obstacle with the ITB's was the lengthening of the linkage arms, which were a bit too short with the new spacing.


This gave me an excuse to take up Sander on his offer to make me something on his plasma cutter, by sending over the files of the lengthened arms as an calibration test


I also made up some black ABS replacements for the weak and less than ideal PLA spacers, after fighting my printer for a week, which turned out to be caused by my bowden extruder being assembled with half the screws (I bought it second hand, so at least it was to be expected) They turned out really well so I'm happy!


In the next weeks I moved on to getting small sections welded and ported for the manifold, starting off with TurboMustache 2.0.


Which then got accompanied by the bottom section of the manifold. Progress is a bit slow, but I'm planning on using a flex-hone on all short sections before I fully weld it, to get a nice smooth inside finish. The porting will follow the coming weeks, should be fun

With a little more progress on the itb setup (plenum design has also now been decided in cardboard), and a fresh 2 year inspection on the car I'm back on this part of the project.


I took the liberty to also make some test prints for the injector bungs and stole these from my chassis build thread


The plan is to get the engine in the car this summer, na for now, and to run it in for a few thousand km's. That's also where the issue comes in, project twin turbo is making less and less sense now the costs of twice the oil/water feeds, the double maf convertor, probably new exhaust housings and the heat shielding is coming in

I could use some constructive feedback, I'm currently in between continuing on (most porting is done just need to get some gas and put in the time) or getting a gt2860 or 19t and running that. This is all being done from my dorm room, on a parking lot with friends, so it's quite a challenge, especially the charge piping on alloy is the greatest obstacle at the moment Any tips from the pro's?

You already spent a lot of time on it, and are building something unique.
Do you do it for the technical challenge or do you want to drive it as soon as possible?

Charge piping: I used 2.5 inch steel exhaust pipe for this and mig welded.
Make a y-piece on the intake side and run a single 012 MAF.
As oil drain I have previously used 20mm mig welded steel pipe to stock drain location. Build a steel y and a flexible hose for second turbo.

I'm 100% certain you've got this.

Sjeng said:

You already spent a lot of time on it, and are building something unique.
Do you do it for the technical challenge or do you want to drive it as soon as possible?

Charge piping: I used 2.5 inch steel exhaust pipe for this and mig welded.
Make a y-piece on the intake side and run a single 012 MAF.
As oil drain I have previously used 20mm mig welded steel pipe to stock drain location. Build a steel y and a flexible hose for second turbo.

I'm 100% certain you've got this.

Click to expand...

Mostly for the challenge of course , I don't mind waiting a bit for the more interesting solution, the biggest problem is probably how great the current setup in the car works, it's fast (compared to what I've driven), reliable and keeps up in the twisty stuff as well. With the bigger tire and wheel package I'm intending on fitting, I'll probably start missing the power, but right now it feels like a shame to ruin a sorted car, given that I only get to have one to rip around in being a student

The charge piping out of steel has also crossed my mind, but I wasn't sure how well it would hold up, but if it worked for you I'm most definitely willing to try, I could also try after getting those to work to convince a fabricator to make them in alloy maybe. As for the MAF, my brother has several -012's so that's a good option for now probably, although having two for the split system would be the cool bit

Do you have some pictures of your fabricobbled oil drain for inspiration, did you use some sort of power steering hose or heater hose, or just straight metal without leaks? I looked into the AN line stuff, and yeah, the dash 10 stuff is no fun

I also had a look at these for the water/oil feed, which seemed like a budget option quite similar to oem, with some suitable hoses, although having rubber in the oil feed would probably be iffy next to a hot exhaust manifold? Maybe making my own hardlines would be an option, although fitment would have to be spot on, and the engine would be best if kept on a stand for the creation of these.
https://www.filterservice-twente.nl/index.php?id=951

fwiw, I had a hydraulic hose crimped by this company: https://www.hytec-hydraulik.de/hydraulikschlauch/metrisch.php
Very rugged stuff, though select one of the thinner/lower pressure rated hoses if you want hose that is actually flexible. Hose I used was just for a straight section. In use for 10 year now and never ever had to take a look at the oil drain in that time.

JW240 said:

fwiw, I had a hydraulic hose crimped by this company: https://www.hytec-hydraulik.de/hydraulikschlauch/metrisch.php

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Cool, thank you for the link, I'll look into them, I previously got a power steering hose made to spec locally which failed quickly, so I might get it made there as well then

I took the time last night to get some motivation going, and ground down the locating tab on the current turbine housings for some clocking, since the current charge piping locations would lead to a headace.


This should also allow equal header lengths and a bigger radius on the exhaust side. I'll order some new gas and get it tested after porting the final bits over the weekend (most gas is currently on backorder, at least for the throwaway bottles due to corona)



I'm also starting to reconsider the quality of my current exhaust housings, which I patched years ago to gain some experience in cast steel welding, since they appear too far gone. Maybe taking the leap to a 14t or a 15t might be the solution, which should also open up safe 15psi of boost.

#1:


#2:

Alright, I've done some looking, thinking and budgeting over the weekend and came up with the following list of demands on the turbo's:
- crack free exhaust housing
- still needs to have a small exhaust housing
- cheap
- capable of around 1-1.5 bar of boost

Which has led met to the following option
- add exhaust housings to the 13c's (approx 150 a piece for new ones)
- Sell 13c's and get 14T's instead (roughly the same as exhaust housings)
- Look at maxspeeding turbo's (150 including wastgates etc)

When comparing specs on the relevant side for spool:
13c: 6 cm2 = 0.41 A/R
14t: 7 cm2 = 0.49 A/R
max: 8 cm2 = 0.57 A/R

On the side of boost:
13c: 5-15psi
14t: 5-20psi?
max: 7-22psi

These are the maxspeeding ones, ridiculously cheap for the decent reviews they get, although I'd have to run a external wastegate and bov:

PCV distractions

Inspired by an old post on here, I decided to take apart an old pin distributor for a pcv port access


A little filing and sawing got me to this point, ready for install


It should sit something like this with a proper fitting instead of this, but man was it hard to get the old seal plug out without proper access haha, a 8mm rod and a hammer ended up doing the trick from the bottom of the block.


I also got this b18 pcv setup from classicswede, to use in the system in combination with the bmw catch can from china I'm planning on using with a 3 port configuration.


With the stack of parts the distributor came in, I also got one of these


For which I've got pretty much everything to run it, which I might experiment with for a bit as a little distraction


As of now the twin turbo's and accessories are for sale, so time will tell if I'll be going with these or will head for the trade up to the china specials for extra fun, I wouldn't mind the upgrade

Verry cool project!

Don't know if you have access to a cnc mill but I've got a cad drawing for an manifold using the gsxr 750 throttle body's, Let me know if interested.
I'd like to know the weight of those maxpeedingrods, Any chance you remember their weight?

PS, Grolsch drinken ze alleen aan de verkeerde kant van land

SkeTchy-MechAniC said:

Verry cool project!

Don't know if you have access to a cnc mill but I've got a cad drawing for an manifold using the gsxr 750 throttle body's, Let me know if interested.
I'd like to know the weight of those maxpeedingrods, Any chance you remember their weight?

PS, Grolsch drinken ze alleen aan de verkeerde kant van land

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Hey Thanks!

I do not currently have access to a cnc, so the plan was cast bends and some lathe work through friends after getting the bits lasercut out of AlMg5, I might try 3d printing in nylon, but with boost alloy has some obvious advantages I have the files for everything, so if you need a drawing, no problem

The maxspeedingrods came in at 606 grams each, I recall the 13mm's being around 700 so not much of a difference, except for peace of mind.

Betreft het Grolsh, origineel kom ik ook vanaf de andere kant, maar die twentse indoctrinatie is niet te verhelpen hier aan de utwente

Some decisions were made, a b230ft 13c in good condition got bought, a stock 90+ manifold is in the works and a set of chinabay intercooler tubes have been ordered.

I'll create the best 2 13c's possible from the parts and sell off the worn spare for someones turbojet engine project on the cheap

I also got the generous offer of a cheap 18t upgrade so I might send off one of these 13c's to receive that. For now I'll just get the engine in the car and a turbo tune going, to later still possibly switch to some sort of sequential TT setup. I'm done with the whole 'slow' car and engine on the stand deal

Nice work Swedbrick, "ik kom graag eens buurten om te oh'en" ;P

Cheers

I just got my old 13c rebuild put together with the best parts, and the second one sold. I also got a spare 13c compressor housing, got it turned to an 18T with a fresh core thanks to TurboDutch


The perfect sleeper turbo


I fitted the straight bigger housing from a well used second hand 13g turbo, which was pretty terrible but crack free, should fit perfectly to the planned 3 inch exhaust system


A crack free 90+ mani has also been obtained, the plan for now is to go 13c up until 1 bar, and after a set of bigger 630cc deka's put on the 18t and start the fun!


My cheap 3 inch throttle elbow also arrived which will be added to the k-jet manifold, if my friend with the welder is still willing after I get the intercooler piping made up for the chinese special

giving up on the twin turbos?

At least for now, the engine has been sitting for too long, getting it in the car and running should get me exited enough to try again at some point hopefully