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thelostartof LH 2.4 Chip Feedback Thread

Could you people please post a little more info in your threads?

I think it would be good for ALL of us to know:

- Which chips were you running previously
- Did you install Fuel, Ignition, or both
- What octane fuel AND what boost level are you running
- Quick mod list of car

Thanks!

There's a bunch of info in my post back on page 2 of this thread. But you're right, I was missing some stuff:

Running Oregon State Shell winter gas 92 octane RM/2 with something like 5-10% ethanol in it.
Ambient has been high 40's with some humidity

Previous ECU chip was stock PN: 2 287 355 944
Old EZK was non-chippable
My undergarments used during testing WERE blue :wtf:
Most other info about the car should be listed on page 2 other than....let's see:

It could use a fuel filter change
It is due for a K&N air filter cleaning
all synthetic lubes
IIRC Denso Iridium plugs with about 15K miles on them
same mileage on cap, rotor, and Bungie Cord's
Stock but reasonably new FPR
Cold-start piston slap to make a diesel blush
Haven't bothered with a compression or leak down test since motor runs smoothly & what I don't know won't hurt me and more boost can always camouflage :oogle:
4:10 rear end with locker
205 55-15 Falken something or others
My butt dyno hasn't been calibrated by anyone else' car - (it's monogam-ass), so all readings are relative to my car's before and after setup.
 
How about box numbers? What ECU and what ICU? There has been rumor going on that "gold box" can handle high revs better, any back up?
 
Well, I'll post up my preliminary review. ;)

I went from Fred's chips to TLAO's chips. Initially, I just slapped in the fuel chip and did NOT reset the ECU. After 100 miles (1 day), it was still struggling to learn the map.

Today I had the chance to reset the ECU, as well as install the ignition chip. After only 30 miles of driving, it's learned most of the map. Still a slight stumble on part throttle under load, and quick off-then-on the throttle again.

I saw a perfect victim to test out some WOT runs...re-badged "Skyline" (G35) with rims, that happened to have 4 passengers in it. My gas light had JUST come on, and I only had myself and maybe 60 lbs of tools and misc junk in the car. I had NO trouble keeping up even if he got the jump on me.

I am pretty impressed with the response now after a quick, hard stab at the throttle. It does seem to respond a tad faster. It also seems to run a bit more rich than the Fred's chips, judging by a few clouds out the tailpipe and the odor of the exhaust (I have no cat).

What surprises me the most is that it's 90 degrees outside today; at times, I would stab the throttle and it responded as if it were several degrees cooler outside.

I will edit once the car has time to learn completely and it's a little cooler outside.

CAR SETUP: 15G @ ~11psi, ipd cam, 3" turbo back...91 octane.
 
just curious to see what AFR's peeps are pulling with the new chips?

i have a Prosport unit that is waiting for install after my CAPT. BONDO unit is on..i know Mike was running mid 11's @ WOT
 
just curious to see what AFR's peeps are pulling with the new chips?

i have a Prosport unit that is waiting for install after my CAPT. BONDO unit is on..i know Mike was running mid 11's @ WOT

Ditto. No $$$ for a gauge right now. Oh well.

Take 2...WOT off the line is nice in first, but once it hits second it sputters and bogs like it doesn't know what to do. Still needs time to learn. When it's on, though, it's ON.
 
Before mine drops to the knock enrichment mode (still fighting that) it's running high 10's to low 11's, which is of course when it pulls clean, and HARD. Got a chance for a 3rd gear pull today getting on the freeway. NORMALLY where I'd hit 2nd and blast past traffic I left it in third, pulled almost as quick in 3rd at 14psi as it did before in 2nd at 11psi, and it was buttery smooth the whole way. I DO think my O2 is dying though as my idle AFR's seem to be getting a bit lean...low-mid 15's where they used to ride in the mid-high 14's. Of course the O2 has a LOT of miles and abuse as well.

I'm actually looking at just breaking down and buying some injectors, since the CFI's are such a PITA to mess with and get to seal. I've got 3 or 4 3" amm's laying around the garage that I SHOULD be able to get something going. One thing I did notice is my car actually spools faster than LH can deal with, so by the time it's getting to 7-8psi the ECU is just then adding fuel (which it's done on stock, Hi-Tuning, and LAO chips). If I roll into it it's fine.
 
I ask because i read that smog technicians physically test to make sure the EGR is functional.

"The technician's inspection is visual, and does not include the testing for proper operation of any emissions component. The technician is required to simply locate the components visually and insure they appear properly connected.

This is true for all emissions components except the EGR valve and "Check Engine" light. The EGR valve will be inspected for functionality anytime a vehicle undergoes the "Basic" version of California's smog test, as opposed to the "Enhanced" smog test (which utilizes a Dynomometer). The "Check Engine" light is inspected on all vehicles which are equipped with one.

The smog technician visual and functionally inspect the EGR system through the use of a vacuum pump with pressure gauge, and then has him or her enter this information into the smog machine. So actually, the smog machine has no knowledge of the EGR system failure other then the technician's input."
 
Just did a couple of 16.9s with them. Over 2/3 tank of gas, full interior aside from floormats basically. With the clutch fan on as well as the A/C/P/S belt on. Last year, with ~100 less lbs, no accessory belt aside from the alternator, and no clutch fan I did a high 16.6. If I lightened the car to that extent and ran the reduced driveline loss setup I'd be at between 16.3 and 16.5. Head's never been off the car, only a B cam, advanced 2 degrees, in an AUTOMATIC 240.
 
Just did a couple of 16.9s with them. Over 2/3 tank of gas, full interior aside from floormats basically. With the clutch fan on as well as the A/C/P/S belt on. Last year, with ~100 less lbs, no accessory belt aside from the alternator, and no clutch fan I did a high 16.6. If I lightened the car to that extent and ran the reduced driveline loss setup I'd be at between 16.3 and 16.5. Head's never been off the car, only a B cam, advanced 2 degrees, in an AUTOMATIC 240.

How much does it weight? I did measure mine years ago, bone stock(no ac, all manual) 240 4-door, B200E(k-jet), M47, virgos, spare tire, original tools, full tank, scale showed 1330kg(2932lbs) without driver.

Put the numbers in some trap speed calculator and it shows pretty accurate hp numbers. http://www.tunercalcs.com/hp-from-quarter-mile-trap-speed.html
 
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