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Lightweight flywheel?

Flat or dog dish in stock configurations.

JVAB steel, STS remanned stock cast iron flat, or some of the european suppliers if you're feeling really flush.
 
Yaboy_chun said:
I have a 1983 240dl with a b23f and m46. What are my flywheel options?
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Have your stock one lightened, resurfaced and balanced by a local engine machine shop.
If it's a good old boy, make sure he balances it.
If it's a "engineer", tell him to lighten it as much as he can, then lighten it some more.

Used to cost me $100-120 to do this. Prices have gone up since I had to walk in to an unknown machine shop though.

Or any of the aftermarket suggestions mentioned above. I think Yoshifab offers something as well.
 
quillc said:
Lightweight flywheel = faster rev due to lower rotating mass.
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No no... I completely understand what a lighter flywheel is/does. I'm just wondering what the mod list looks like? This probably isn't a great bang for the buck mod... especially when you consider the pita factor.
 
EivlEvo said:
No no... I completely understand what a lighter flywheel is/does. I'm just wondering what the mod list looks like? This probably isn't a great bang for the buck mod... especially when you consider the pita factor.
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On our ITB cars "resurfacing" the flywheel down to 15 or so pounds was one of the best improvements we got.
 
mine already weigh the same. I can lighten a cast iron but people freak out. I been running a cast iron 15lbs flat flywheel in my turbo 242 with no issues. Its my daily so I don't abuse my clutch as much as a drag or racecar.
 
buy a new lightweight unit i had one come apart in the super sport 1965 impala. at get ready 4500 r.p.m!! it ripped holes in the floor it's not something i take lightly anymore
 
I had 8.5 lbs taken out of my dog dish flywheel. Been running it for over a year. No issues. Theres a difference, but nothing crazy. I plan on going aluminum next year once i finish everything else. If I were you, Id focus on other upgrades first
 
freevolvos said:
buy a new lightweight unit i had one come apart in the super sport 1965 impala. at get ready 4500 r.p.m!! it ripped holes in the floor it's not something i take lightly anymore
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What you are trying to say is buy STEEL..

Iron is brittle..It can and it does FAIL, and when it fails it shatters..

Steel is tough.

And aluminum goes sift rapidly at temps above 475*....and clutches and flywheels can get MUCH higher temp..
screwing a THING steel or iron facing onto a aluminum base makes for a great bi-metalic spring ---just waiting to become a salad bowl. (mill some slots thuu the faceing so at least the parts can move around some.--better yet GET STEEL)
 
freevolvos said:
yup steel cast iron is dangerous
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I think it might be much more accurate to say "cast iron can be dangerous if subjected to shock loads"..and "even moreso if carved on willy-nilly"....(Google image search "exploded Redblock flywheels")

(after all millions upon millions of cars including 5+million Redblock powered Volvos have driven bazzillions of miles with iron flywheels)

To me the major problem is: pressure plates with enough clamping force easily available;e at reasonable prices.
 
Tuff240 said:
If it's a good old boy, make sure he balances it.
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I check everything I send out for balance. Only one time did House of Balance screw one up with an adjustable arbor (guy was having a bad day, and he made it right for me), but it was wayyy off when I checked it..
 
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