Help Diagnosing New Issues

Turbo Brick Family,

I have a couple of questions related to some new symptoms that popped up from my 1990 Volvo 240 DL (automatic):

1. The car would start but would quickly start to shudder/die if I didn't give it some gas. I recently replaced the fuel pressure regulator after finding out it was faulty. Now, I was told that I have a 2-3-2 and possibly a 2-3-2 fault so I recently replaced the MAF sensor. However, my 240 sometimes has a rougher idle now and the check engine light came on. It sort of has periods where the RPMs increase and decrease at stop lights or right when I start the car--the headlights also begin to dim and increase in brightness. This doesn't happen under load. Could it be the fuel pump?
2. Recently started hearing a rattling noise from the front of the car. It only rattles when I start the car or right when I begin to reverse/drive out of a parking stall.
3. Does anyone know where I'd be able to find more info on a fuel system/management fuse in 240s that's prone to weather and wear? I tried finding the part on IPD and more location info in the Be.tley manual and online but had no luck.

Some background:
- My car has around 65K original miles
- The overdrive recently went out and I'm planning on doing a bypass and replacing the relay.

I appreciate any and all help

Year of car and model? 1st thought that pops into mind, clean idle air motor, throttle body, and flame trap.

one. This engine has idle management that is triggered by a throttle position switch on the throttle body. This should be the start of the checks which would include checking the idle motor. Cleaning varnish out of the idle air motor and hoses may also help. Check connections for any corrosion because even though that sounds like a nice low miles it still will have age related problems if the electrical system isn't maintained. I don't remember what the 2 3 2 code is off hand. But I do remember it is one related to the engine compensating for either rich or lean mixture. This can be because of a vacuum leak. It can also be from your fuel ecu being the pink label 561 version which is prone to false codes.

Two is something that will need to be tracked down. A rattle could be from several things. Bad bushings on the accessory drive like on the alternator or power steering and a/c, a worn out timing belt tensioner or a worn water pump for example.
Number three. You are more than likely referring to the fuel and ignition system fuse on the left inner fender inside the engine compartment. If that gets corroded you can have weird running conditons like you describe. Sometimes the fuse holder can't be cleaned and it needs to be replaced. You can buy a sealed ATC type fuse holder rated for 30 amps at a local auto parts store. Use a 25amp ATC type fuse in the holder. The wiring will need to be spliced in by someone comfortable with doing safe automotive electrical work.
There are Volvo greenbooks online at the ozvolvo site. They are the original service manuals and you'll be able to find the information you want about the electrical system.

Keep it rolling.

@2turbotoys: 1990 Volvo 244DL

@dl242gt: Thank you again for all the insight! Going to clean the IAC ASAP adn check the electrical connections. I re-ran the codes and came up with the following: 1-1-2 (ECU internal fault), 1-1-3 (rich/lean), 3-2-2 (MAF burnoff or faulty). As such, ordered a new ECU just in case. Regarding your other points, I'm going to check on the rattle/possibly take it into a shop because I can't quite pinpoint a place where a pulley/bearing is loose when I open the hood. Lastly, I do happen to have a green book on hand that I borrowed from a friend. Going to look through that for the fuel/ignition management fuse info while I'm also changing out the vacuum hoses.

Quick question for the group--does anyone know why my driver's seat might lean to the left? I'll insert a picture when I get home, but when you look through the rear window towards the front, my driver's seat is tilted left at about a 30-degree angle. I tried taking it to an upholstery shop and had the seat filled in a little since it was missing some padding--but no thoughts other than that.

I should also note that the car has been inspected and doesn't show any signs of accident damage, body work, etc. Trying to figure out how to fix my seat haha

That rattle could be exhaust shielding that has broken at the spot weld. Goes away after the exhaust heats up and expands. Check the area between the header and the cat, if the pipe looks like it has a cover over it then it could be the issue. I cut mine off with a pair of tin snips (carefully).

Air leaks are likely. Check the accordion hose.