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1995 940 turbo *longterm* daily driver

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/zLg0RYI' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/zLg0RYIl.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

This is what $40 gets me. Seem legit with the right part number off an '05 s60r. O rings seem fine to me so I guess just run them? I still have to find/buy an 012 amm to go with them.......

.....I'm looking forward to taking my distributor off. To plug the hole, is it really just that cap thing? I have one of those plates to hold the cap in place also.

Those injectors look legit; the rip offs won't have the VOLVO PN on the opposite side, and they have multiple slots at the rail end connection (yours have only one, Volvo fuel rail only). Fuelinjectorconnection in ATL will clean them & flow them for $12 each, plus shipping. Of course, you can run "as is" without the peace of mind. Your wallet will decide.

Re. the distributor less mods, you need (1) the 15A plate to cover and hold (2) the sealing plug, which is pressed into the end of the #5 cam bearing. I think I put anaerobic sealant around that plug before I installed the cover plate. I've honestly forgotten, but details are in my thread. There is an OE PN for the plug you need.
 
I appreciate you always coming through with the info I need. I have both the plug and plate to block the distributor, just wasn't sure if I were missing anything else.

I am going to work on getting this coil bracket made, but don't be surprised if I don't come hounding you for a detailed list of what you used for your bracket. I know it's all in your build thread, but I'm still unclear.

And as far as the injectors, I'll likely just run them. $12 per seems reasonable, but would more than double the cost of them.
 
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Welp, my car is officially running and driving again. I pulled the distributor cap and then distributor off. I used an ipd (or similar) blocking plate behind the cam seal. Surprising how heavy the coil is. And it is nice having space behind the head.

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/ulfGAaD' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/ulfGAaDl.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

My bracket design changed several times before I settled on this. It came out ok and will hopefully hold up forever. But my weld is poor and it vibrates as much as the engine does. Only time will tell. Here's some pictures of the process.

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/w8nzeeN' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/w8nzeeNl.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

This rudimentary outline turned into this.
<a href='http://i.imgur.com/PJ0A7Vm' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/PJ0A7Vml.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/yU6Bys6' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/yU6Bys6l.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/3bfraRk' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/3bfraRkl.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

The idea was to be able to use 240 wires and that worked ok. Add some new plug wires to the list though as these are unknown mileage/condition. The zip ties will eventually be bolts. And I will buy a sheath to cover the wiring. Then it'll be hard to tell anything is too out of the ordinary. The red/white wire from the factory igniter connected to the yellow/blue of my Miata j702t iginter gave me a working tach, so no relay or anything needed.

The immediate to do list is still just getting boost dialed in perfectly again. It hits 7 psi and rises to about 12 psi by the end of the rev range. Gotta fiddle with the wastegate actuator and/or mbc I imagine.
 
I got my first real drive time in today on the way to work. I raised the MBC shooting for a stable 15 psi. But now, it seems to lose spark above 10 psi. That's what it feels like anyways. I can ride the gear out longer and get it a little higher than 10 psi but it still loses power eventually.

The plug wires are oe Volvo but unknown condition. Plugs were fine (unknown origin, installed by previous owner) before the wasted spark swap but a buddy said some spark plugs don't like wasted spark. I have some ngk bpr7es I can try if that might help?

Anything else that could be my issue? Or am I headed in the right direction?
 
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I think my problem was just the wires not making good contract against the coil pack. Very typical of myself to not notice. I think I will eventually remake/move my bracket to use the 940 plug wires again. But I had to crimp the fittings a bit on the 240 wires to make them snap in to place, as well as adjust the boots further up. I used some dielectric grease and swapped in the bpr7es plugs anyways. It now pulls smoothly to 16 psi. Afrs look good to boot with stock injectors so far. Gonna try and log some miles now.
 
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PSA

It is cold outside. Check your tire pressure! All four of mine were low, some lower than others. And I could sure use new tires. Lots more sitting than miles on these.

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/HfvWXnh' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/HfvWXnhl.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>
 
I'm trying to order parts for my 3" amm/heat shield/green giant injectors install.

I'm working with a do88 3" inlet hose and a bsr heat shield that I'll have to cut to accept a 3" amm.

I feel like I've read the factory 90? bend between the filter and amm is needed to create some sort of air swirl. Is their any truth to that or did I make that up? I've had an air filter stuck on the end of my amm for a couple thousand miles now but am trying to make a permanent solution. Can anyone comment on if I should try and work that 90? bend into my air box or just plop the filter right on the end of the amm?
 
I'm trying to order parts for my 3" amm/heat shield/green giant injectors install.

I'm working with a do88 3" inlet hose and a bsr heat shield that I'll have to cut to accept a 3" amm.

I feel like I've read the factory 90? bend between the filter and amm is needed to create some sort of air swirl. Is their any truth to that or did I make that up? I've had an air filter stuck on the end of my amm for a couple thousand miles now but am trying to make a permanent solution. Can anyone comment on if I should try and work that 90? bend into my air box or just plop the filter right on the end of the amm?
I've never heard of the 90* bend air swirl thing. Been running the do88 3" inlet hose on my 945T for years with no noticeable issues. Fitment for the BSR heat shield might be an issue, though, as it pushes the air filter closer to the fender. I can't find a picture of mine, but I can share one later.
 
I feel like I've read the factory 90? bend between the filter and amm is needed to create some sort of air swirl. Is their any truth to that or did I make that up? I've had an air filter stuck on the end of my amm for a couple thousand miles now but am trying to make a permanent solution. Can anyone comment on if I should try and work that 90? bend into my air box or just plop the filter right on the end of the amm?

The only recommendation I've read was that a certain length of "straight flow" be put in front of the AMM. You might search BOSCH data (there is no magic here unique to Volvo) to see..... I'm thinking it was essentially 1 to 1.5 diameter(s) of straight pipe in front of the AMM. I believe they are avoiding flow "converging" from open space to the AMM. From my old engineering days, they may want "laminar flow" I suspect passing across the AMM instrument. I'm betting BOSCH has an application guide or similar, online which will show you the light.

Most likely, you can IGNORE what you read on TB, regarding this subject...... more urban legend I would expect.
 
Alright, will likely go with only a filter attached to the amm. Here are some pictures of my newly received bsr heat shield since I couldn't find any when I was considering ordering. At least I couldn't find any that showed how it mounted, etc.


<a href='http://i.imgur.com/Y4LvRxE' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/Y4LvRxEl.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/J7GHdGO' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/J7GHdGOl.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>


<a href='http://i.imgur.com/fk3ogVS' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/fk3ogVSl.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

Apparently my heat shield is only good for 300hp ;-)
 
That looks like a dead wringer for my EuroSport Tuning air box. Despite common belief, this wouldn't be easy to fab. "from cardboard templates" due to the complicated geometry at the wheel well sheet metal. Is that one sized for a 3" AMM? Mine fits only the 2.5" AMM.

FWIW, I was fit checking my 19t yesterday and do88 inlet (suction) hose. I didn't check the factory hose, but the do88 (sized for the 3" AMM) didn't match up well with the stock location of the AMM hole. I'm going to be fabbing an add on plate with the 3" mount for the AMM, custom located to work with the larger hose. I don't recall now if do88 offered a different hose for the Garrett and MITSU; regardless I'm going to make what I have work.

What cone type filter are you using? I'm going to look by K&N and see if I can find a dry element MANN type filter. I have a spare K&N with another 3" AMM, but I'm going to try and not use it. If you have interest in that one, shoot me a PM.
 
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I had literally ten minutes to tinker on the car before the family loaded up to go to the local Christmas parade. I shoved it in there. To fit perfectly, the do88 house would need trimmed. This is with the 2.5" hose/amm. Also, the filter(at least this one) needs to be angled slightly to not hit the wall of the air box, like the setup bsr offers. I haven't had the factory air box installed in some time, so maybe there is a part I could use so that the bottom mount of the air box bolts in. As of now, I only used one bolt to lock the new air box in place.

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/AU08jkX' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/AU08jkXl.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/InxTqLN' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/InxTqLNl.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

This last picture shows the top mount used and the lack of the bottom mount. Hopefully I just need to dig out my factory air box and see if their is something reused.

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/5zyjLkX' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/5zyjLkXl.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>
 
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That looks like a dead wringer for my EuroSport Tuning air box. Despite common belief, this wouldn't be easy to fab. "from cardboard templates" due to the complicated geometry at the wheel well sheet metal. Is that one sized for a 3" AMM? Mine fits only the 2.5" AMM.

FWIW, I was fit checking my 19t yesterday and do88 inlet (suction) hose. I didn't check the factory hose, but the do88 (sized for the 3" AMM) didn't match up well with the stock location of the AMM hole. I'm going to be fabbing an add on plate with the 3" mount for the AMM, custom located to work with the larger hose. I don't recall now if do88 offered a different hose for the Garrett and MITSU; regardless I'm going to make what I have work.

What cone type filter are you using? I'm going to look by K&N and see if I can find a dry element MANN type filter. I have a spare K&N with another 3" AMM, but I'm going to try and not use it. If you have interest in that one, shoot me a PM.

No, this one is only for the 2.5" amm. It will need cut. I am going to move the hole as much inward as possible and might trim a smidge off the 3" do88 hose since my fitment was similar to yours.

I think I might pm you when funds allow since I still haven't found my 012 amm that I knew I had. Otherwise, I haven't looked much into filters. It looks like this cheap, old and broken filter I have right now can open up to fit the 3" amm if I had to.
 
I doubt if which air filter we have make much of a difference for power. But I see from you two it seems like a dry filter is preferable over an oiled filter. I will probably need to make it through Christmas before I can sink more dollars into my Volvo, but a filter and 012 amm are definitely next on the list.
 
It really doesn't make a huge difference, performance-wise, but the extra noise is nice. :)

As for filters, I've seen the oiled ones gunk up AMMs and throttle bodies, FYI.
 
Nooo, don't install an oiled filter! They're horrible for anything that's not maintained after a few hours of use such as race cars and ATVs. That oil coats the inside of everything like Kardboard said, still lets dirt through and just makes a horrible mess.

Keep to the paper! There are enough MANN filters and stock replacements that have the cone form for noise, but retain quality filter properties.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...lvo+740.TRS0&_nkw=bmw+e81+air+filter&_sacat=0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Air...d=253259972356&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Get a paper cone filter and cobble together an adapter, your daily driver will thank you!
 
Nooo, don't install an oiled filter!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Air...d=253259972356&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Get a paper cone filter and cobble together an adapter, your daily driver will thank you!

No name unbranded CHINA filter, better than K&N properly oiled (per their specs)? Please tell us why! Got studies, flow rate at specific pressure drop, dirt passed into engine, anything? There don't seem to be a lot of haters of the "Ken & Norm" air filters, not that I'm finding online. Perhaps Deutschland is holding the secrets...... please share.
 
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