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Old 02-04-2019, 06:17 PM   #101
ZVOLV
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Maybe it's that BOV put your hand over it and see what happens. Or air leaks. Sounded like it was idling high in one video.

I use a smoke machine to locate air leaks.
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Old 02-04-2019, 06:41 PM   #102
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Soo close. No -10 would mean 10 after top dead center. +10 is before top dead center. Try +10 if you didn't set it there. The turbo engines are usually +12 before top dead center.
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Old 02-04-2019, 06:59 PM   #103
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So it ran good enough to take it for a drive. Got gas and on the way home it just died without warning. Waiting on a tow... Fuel pump is running, no blown fuses, fpr clicks.. pretty sure I lost spark.
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Old 02-04-2019, 07:04 PM   #104
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I guess there is another intermittent connection somewhere.
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Old 02-04-2019, 07:20 PM   #105
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It's getting spark.
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Old 02-04-2019, 09:47 PM   #106
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So, once again, I have no injector pulse. But this time I have power at the injectors. If I put the meter across the two pins in an injector connector it just shows battery voltage while cranking.
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Old 02-05-2019, 09:30 AM   #107
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I saw butt connectors in your video. No good. Solder and heat shrink is our policy at the shop.

You should also spend the $5 on a noid light. A meter averages the voltage and isn't the proper tool. 12v steady isn't good. That means shorted/always on injectors possibly. A test lamp or noid light would be better. Just make a test light or noid light!



Does it run on brake cleaner?
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Old 02-05-2019, 12:06 PM   #108
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The injectors are grounding out through the smaller black manifold ground ring, regardless of the ECU being connected.

My oil is nice and gassy again..
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Old 02-05-2019, 12:59 PM   #109
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Your explanation doesn't make sense to me. Good move unplugging the ECU, but do you have the ground rings unplugged also when you're making this measurement?

You have also stated you intermittently DON'T have power to one or more injectors. You may have a short internal to the harness. LH2.2 wiring harnesses commonly degrade.

Unplug the injectors, clear flood, and see if it runs on brake cleaner. And stays running. If so, shake down the fuel system.
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Old 02-05-2019, 01:21 PM   #110
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Yeah, taking off the ground ring results in the injectors not being grounded out. But still no injector pulse, cause that's where they should normally be grounded by the ecu. Harness is only a couple years old.
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Old 02-05-2019, 02:06 PM   #111
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Are you measuring between pin 1 and 2 of an UNPLUGGED injector? They should ALL be unplugged for a valid test.
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Old 02-05-2019, 02:07 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
Are you measuring between pin 1 and 2 of an UNPLUGGED injector? They should ALL be unplugged for a valid test.
Yup.
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Old 02-05-2019, 03:19 PM   #113
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So I'm seeing about 320kohms between white/green injector wire and ground. Goes down a bit if I connect the ECU. Still shows battery voltage across the two injector pins with ignition on. Ignition system works fine but it wouldn't run on brake clean so I took out a plug.

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Old 02-05-2019, 03:33 PM   #114
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I suggest circuit verification. You should NOT measure 12v, key on, between the injectors pin 1 and 2.

A meter set on dwell or Hertz would be a legitimate test. Just measuring voltage and looking for "switching" on a cheap meter isn't the best way to look for a pulsed signal.

I've got a car right now in the shop with a bad injector circuit code. I will do some practice tests and see what I come up with on the Fluke meter, test lamp, noid light, and may put a scope on the circuit too. For science...
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Old 02-05-2019, 04:01 PM   #115
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So I pulled and sanded/cleaned each plug and it still won't run on brake clean.. I used a timing light to check every plug wire and verified timing at 10 BTDC.

Edit So the injector ground wire goes to ecu pin 13 and nothing else if I'm correct. Between injector and ecu 13 there's no resistance, but clearly it's grounding somewhere on something. The harness jiggle tactic revealed nothing. Anything to try before I either hack into my harness willy nilly or run a bypass wire? Like I said the only damage to the harness was on the ignition side, so I don't really see why or how this could happen..

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Old 02-05-2019, 10:53 PM   #116
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Made a test harness for the injector ground pins (with actual soldering and heatshrink and everything, if you can believe it) which doesn't seem to have made a difference. Since it didn't run on brake clean I'm not gonna call it a failure yet. I'll replace the spark plugs and probably the plug wires too. (I've never actually bought plug wires for any of my Volvos..) What's weird is that the new temporary harness still has a connection to ground with injectors and ECU unplugged, though a lot more resistance than before. 2.3Mohms vs ~300Kohms



EDIT: Forgot to mention, with the new harness I'm no longer seeing 12v without cranking. Can't really tell if it's pulsing with the meter tho.

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Old 02-06-2019, 11:51 AM   #117
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Try putting a test lamp between battery positive and the injector ground and cranking. I did several tests yesterday and was having issues with noid lights and my meter. I was successful with the incandescent test lamp
I had a dim blink on all my injector circuits except for one cylinder that's throwing an injector circuit code (non volvo).
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Old 02-06-2019, 04:49 PM   #118
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Blue go fast plug wires and new plugs did the trick. Fired right up. Also I did finally spend fifteen of my hard earned dollarydoos on a test light which showed injector pulse and should make things easier next time I break something.

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Old 02-06-2019, 05:40 PM   #119
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Cool got it running! Have fun with it.
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Old 02-06-2019, 05:57 PM   #120
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Thanks for all the help guys, this forum continually makes me more not dumb.
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Old 02-06-2019, 07:54 PM   #121
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In my case, I had a bad reman ECU right outta the box. It would run fine for a while and then an injector driver would crap out and that cylinder would be a dead misfire.

The test lamp would blink at first, but then when it started missing, I would no longer be able to get the test lamp to blink between B+ and the misfiring cylinders injector control circuit.

I worked with a guy whom used a SnapOn LED test lamp for almost ALL his electrical diag. LED lamps will trigger on low voltage circuits such as 5v circuits. A LED test lamp would be great in these old Volvo's for confirming a good 5v square wave signal from the EZK to the powerstage.

I hope you enjoy your project and hopefully more tow trucks!
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Old 02-06-2019, 09:18 PM   #122
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Why is the fuel filter above the exhaust manifold? Heat rises which with the filter where it is can lead to vapor lock or worse - fire.
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Old 02-06-2019, 10:29 PM   #123
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The heat atomizes the fuel and increases MPGs. I read it in Cosmo.
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Old 02-07-2019, 08:19 AM   #124
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Interesting in your video, the cranking reminded me of a car with timing or ignition issues.

Fuel filter above exhaust ?
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