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Old 01-30-2019, 05:56 PM   #26
dl242gt
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1k ohms too high? Good find. It's one more out of spec part that you got out of the way.
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Old 01-30-2019, 06:04 PM   #27
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1k ohms too high? Good find. It's one more out of spec part that you got out of the way.
Yeah. I ordered a new one but I doubt that's the issue. I'm about to start tearing my hair out..
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Old 01-30-2019, 06:10 PM   #28
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Measure the coil wire and make sure the button in the distributor cap is good. Also the resistance of the rotor being too high will kill the spark. Volvo spark cable spec is 500 ohms per foot.
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Old 01-30-2019, 06:38 PM   #29
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Measure the coil wire and make sure the button in the distributor cap is good. Also the resistance of the rotor being too high will kill the spark. Volvo spark cable spec is 500 ohms per foot.
Coil wire was close to 3kohms, replaced it with an old one a bit under 2kohms and checked for spark by putting the end of the cable about a quarter inch from the strut tower nut. Still nothin.
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Old 01-30-2019, 08:12 PM   #30
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Hmm well I'm wondering if that triggering isn't happening? A test light on there would show proper current with the switching. That's why we like them a lot for circuit testing.
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Old 01-31-2019, 03:36 PM   #31
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So between coil negative (red/white wire) and ground I get about 10kohms. Ignition on/off makes no difference but while cranking it moves around 12-14kohms. Does this sound right at all? With the "new" powerstage installed it's just an open circuit cranking or not. Wiggling the various wires and connections makes no difference.

EDIT: So in my first post I said 0ohms.. What the hell? EDIT: Pretty sure I got positive/negative mixed up in the first post.

Last edited by Cwazywazy; 01-31-2019 at 03:44 PM..
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Old 01-31-2019, 08:01 PM   #32
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I'm completely lost and sick of wasting my money.

I've checked all the wiring. I replaced the EZK (Old one was actually broken, so you can imagine how annoying it is that replacing it didn't make it run) the distributor, the coil, and the powerstage. I feel like it has to be something simple and stupid that I'm missing, but I just can't find anything.
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Old 01-31-2019, 08:05 PM   #33
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$5 on a test lamp and $5 on a noid light would go a long way.
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Old 01-31-2019, 08:11 PM   #34
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$5 on a test lamp and $5 on a noid light would go a long way.
I need to get one anyway, but what would that tell me? I already know that for some reason there's no pulse to the coil. I have two good coils, they get power, there's no spark if I put the wire a quarter inch from the strut tower nut.
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Old 01-31-2019, 08:33 PM   #35
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Do you have injector pulse?

Post up a wiring diagram and I can figure it for ya.
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Old 01-31-2019, 09:14 PM   #36
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http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/Harnes...convHi-LoZ.pdf

This is what I've been using. Mine is the same but without the ballast resistor connector, not that it matters.
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Old 01-31-2019, 09:35 PM   #37
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Whats your wiring into the ecu look like? I found the instructions a little confusing when I did this a couple months ago, as a couple of the wires need to splice together before splicing into the ecu wiring. Like a 2 into one. I basically played around with the ones I was confused on until it worked. I can take pictures/give better info later tonight. But as I recall it would crank but not fire until I had the right combination.
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Old 01-31-2019, 09:52 PM   #38
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Ok, so a bit of background info just as a refresher. Car ran great and then a Toyota smashed it. Got it back a couple months later and it would crank but no ignition. The battery tray squashed the powerstage harness against the strut tower so I figured great, that's the only problem. Ripped the engine out and there wasn't much actual damage to the wiring, just to the insulation. Patched it up and threw the engine into my 244. It's wired the same way as it was in my 245. (I've since verified the powerstage wiring (As well as all the other ignition related wires) and it all seems fine to me.) Still no ignition. EZK box wasn't giving power to the hall sensor. Replaced that, hall sensor is getting power as it should be, and still no ignition. I figured the hall sensor must've gone kaput so I replaced that and nothing.

Coil is getting +12v fine. There's a load of resistance between the coil negative and ground and I dunno if it's supposed to be that way or not. With a new cheapo powerstage there's just no connection to ground at all.

I'd really appreciate it if someone with an LH2.2 EZK car could go disconnect the coil negative and test resistance between that and ground with ignition off and on.
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Old 01-31-2019, 10:47 PM   #39
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That's not a wiring diagram.

Again, do you have injector pulse???
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Old 01-31-2019, 10:50 PM   #40
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Quote:
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That's not a wiring diagram.
I don't have one. Volvo 240s never came with EZK.

EDIT: I meant with LH2.2
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Old 01-31-2019, 10:54 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
That's not a wiring diagram.

Again, do you have injector pulse???
I can smell fuel after a bit of cranking, but I'll go check to be sure.
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Old 01-31-2019, 11:01 PM   #42
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Huh. No injector pulse. FPR clicks.
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Old 01-31-2019, 11:13 PM   #43
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You need a wiring diagram. I can't decipher a write up.

Next you gotta make sure the computers are powered up. Key on AND cranking. AND grounded properly. Then signal in. (RPM signal).
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Old 01-31-2019, 11:21 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
You need a wiring diagram. I can't decipher a write up.

Next you gotta make sure the computers are powered up. Key on AND cranking. AND grounded properly. Then signal in. (RPM signal).
I'll check it out tomorrow. I did clean and verify all grounds. I dunno about finding a diagram, a 740 turbo diagram might be close enough?

Also what happened to volvowiringdiagrams.com?
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Old 01-31-2019, 11:26 PM   #45
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The 2.2 EZK is from a 740...so I have pulled out my Haynes manual for 740.

Without a diagram you are in the dark. How would you even tell if the computers are powered up without a diagram?


Here's a ****ty one. Does it show up? The answer is somewhere in there.


Last edited by ZVOLV; 01-31-2019 at 11:34 PM..
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Old 01-31-2019, 11:37 PM   #46
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The 2.2 EZK is from a 740...so I have pulled out my Haynes manual for 740.

Without a diagram you are in the dark. How would you even tell if the computers are powered up without a diagram?
If my (limited, as it turns out) volvo knowledge is correct, the ECU won't fire the injectors if it knows the ignition isn't firing. I thought the fuel relay would only click if that wasn't the case though. Wouldn't click if it wasn't getting power anyway.

This is doubly frustrating because it was all working in my other car before the wreck. The only time I've suffered no ignition like this was just because of dirty connections. I don't really understand how it all works.
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Old 01-31-2019, 11:40 PM   #47
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Do you have power to the blue/yellow wire to the MAF with the ignition on??

Do you have power to the injectors key on?? (Checked between the injector positive wire and a known good ground)

Last edited by ZVOLV; 02-01-2019 at 12:06 AM..
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Old 02-01-2019, 12:53 AM   #48
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Disconnect the distributor and the powerstage. With key on, measure and write down these voltages:
1) battery + post to - post
2) distributor harness connector + to - pin (the outer 2, the middle pin is the signal)
3) powerstage harness connector pin 2 to 4 (if you look at the powerstage itself, with the connector facing you, pin 1 is on the right, pin 7 on left)
4) coil #15 pin to battery - post
5) manifold ground bolts to battery + post
Report back with the measurements when done.

Edit: I just looked at the LH2.2 conversion harness doc and there's one more thing to check.
[step 3 of doc] The harness includes a 4-pin cabin connector. The red/white wire in this connector comes from pin#1 of the coil, to your tach.

Check that the existing 4-pin connector in your dash has the red/white wire and that it goes to the tach. If your connector has a different wire, or it's not plugged into the tach (clock pins are a common mistake), then pin#1 on the coil is shorted to something in the cabin. This could cause the coil to not fire.

Last edited by bobxyz; 02-01-2019 at 01:47 AM..
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Old 02-01-2019, 01:23 AM   #49
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^^^He knows what he is talking about. Listen and follow.

Pin 2 of the powerstage is ground to the intake manifold. BROWN wire. Pin 4 of the powerstage is BLUE wire and it also powers the EZK. If there is no 12v between pin 2 and pin 4 of the powerstage your EZK, and also your powestage, are not juiced up.

If there is no power to the MAF yellow/blue wire, your LH box is not powered up.
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Old 02-01-2019, 02:28 AM   #50
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For the record, I checked resistance between negative and ground like you asked. With the ignition off it was 18 - so basically nothing, and with the ignition on it was very high.
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