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Old 02-11-2019, 01:29 AM   #1
RickATL
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Default Everthing was going o.k., until the exhaust stud broke

Need opinion from those with more experience:

I have been restoring Lars (93 244) for almost a year. I was getting close to finishing when i broke an exhaust manifold stud during removal. I then broke the tap inside of the stud trying to get it out. After days of trying to get the broken stud out, i gave up and took the cylinder head off. I figured I could take it somewhere to be worked at, or....


I have another B230F standing by. I was, in time, going to rebuild it...once i learn more. Now i'm thinking i could switch cylinder heads. I need to get it running asap. After i got the cylinder head off, the block doesn't look good?


Would you use the other cylinder head and go?

Since i'm almost there, should i pull the block (do the rear main and oil pan gasket) since i'm so close?

If i do pull it, what else should be done to the block?
What should i have done to cylinder head before putting it back on?
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File Type: jpg lars engine.jpg (112.8 KB, 163 views)
File Type: jpg Lars_block.jpg (191.6 KB, 163 views)
File Type: jpg back up block.jpg (125.4 KB, 164 views)
File Type: jpg back up 2.jpg (143.3 KB, 163 views)
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Old 02-11-2019, 02:32 AM   #2
gottarollwithit
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Did you check the compression before pulling the head?

You can weld a nut or something to the seized stud and get it out.
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Old 02-11-2019, 04:13 AM   #3
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The block in the car looks okay to me. It just looks like there was some water in the last cylinder when it sat for a while. The stock intake number 3 runs leanest so looks about right. Number 4 might be running a little rich or oil is sneaking by the valve stem seals in the head on that one. Just turn the motor till number four is up all the way and clean the top of the piston off. I like to use left handed drill bit when drilling broke studs most of the time they come out while drilling. Start small bit and work up. Yeah I'd just slap on spare head and go, but clean everything first. THe block in the car being a 93 should have piston oil squirters.
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Old 02-11-2019, 11:43 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gottarollwithit View Post
Did you check the compression before pulling the head?

You can weld a nut or something to the seized stud and get it out.

No i didnt check the compression. However it was running great. It hasnt been started in like 6 months now, and i had drained the coolant. I was replacing the belts, hoses, timing belt, front seals, water pump, radiator and most of the pcv system. Is it a problem that it sat without coolant inside?



The stud broke off lower than the cylinder head hole. Its like 3/8 an inch down.
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Old 02-11-2019, 11:54 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickATL View Post
Is it a problem that it sat without coolant inside?
No.

I think you probably had a headgasket leak on #4.

No worries. You're fixing that now

Scrub the rust off of everything. Clean with brake clean. I'd even spray some WD on the walls of #4 before rotating the crank a few revolutions before reassembly.

edit:// change oil before startup and also flush cooling system unless you are sure that the cooling system wasn't contaminated when removing the rust.

Make sure it is idling good, not leaking and warmed up good... Then give it the "right foot adjustment".

Should be fine.

Last edited by swedefiend; 02-11-2019 at 12:07 PM..
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Old 02-11-2019, 03:34 PM   #6
dl242gt
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I've had to fix this a few times. With the stud below the surface it's better to have the head off to work on it. You can then use the welding technique to buildup a tower of weld to then put vise grips on and turn out the old stud piece. There is a thread here with info. Or have a shop repair that for you.

I've done both ways in that I did the welding method on my turbo years ago. That worked great. Then this past summer I had the same thing happen on my 93 wagon and I took that to the welding and fab shop where they fixed it for me. One hour of time for $125. This was last Oct I had the head from the car repaired. But to repair my car I put a good used head on it that a friend gave me. That way I fixed my car sooner than it was taking the shop to repair the head. Put all new studs on the used head.
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Old 02-11-2019, 03:38 PM   #7
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https://forums.tbforums.com/showthre...ht=stud+repair

See this thread at post 20.
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Old 02-12-2019, 06:15 PM   #8
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Default thanks for the advice

I currently have the back up cylinder head at Cylinder Head Exchange in Marietta, Ga - they seem to have good reviews. They are going to clean and plane it and let me know what the other tests show. I showed them both cylinder heads and they thought the back up looked to be in better condition.

Apparently they can tell the backup was already rebuilt once from some numbers stamped on the head.

So now I must decide, should I pull the block - I've heard such bad stuff about the rear main and oil pan gasket. I'm thinking I should just do it now? I plan to keep very long term. I have been meticulous where I can be....from trying to educate myself on here.

Can I just pull the block (with no cylinder head on it) without the transmission? I assumed I could support the transmission and leave it. I already serviced it - it has a new shift down cable, filter, and gasket.

I have to get Lars out of the garage so I can start on Ingrid.
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Old 02-12-2019, 07:20 PM   #9
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Sure if this is a long term driving experience. Pull the block now while it's lighter and easier to handle. Leave the trans supported in place. Don't forget to replace the oil pump transfer seals if you are taking off the oil pan.

They look like a nice couple.
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Old 02-19-2019, 08:20 PM   #10
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OP - for future engine machining, I recommend GOZA Machine in Acworth...... they've done 4 or 5 cylinder heads for me by now. Tommy Goza is old school and they have nice equipment and skilled folks. Good luck with getting that stud out of the bore.....I'd try it before pulling that engine. Projects such as yours tend to snowball and scope creep extends them. I'd repair that block in situ, then put the head of your choice on it and rock the redblock.
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Old 02-20-2019, 01:45 AM   #11
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If you have the time pull the block. Replace at least the rubber tube for the crankcase breather (available from the Dlr for like 30 and of course the oil pan gasket. If you have more time then replace the wrist pins and while you're at those, the con rod bearings. Rear and front main and the intermidiate shaft seal, only the latter two if not pulling block.
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Old 02-20-2019, 01:50 AM   #12
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Trying to replace the oil pan gasket is not fun with the engine in the car. If the 240 is like the 740 the crossmember bolts wont want to come off (any ideas??)
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Old 02-20-2019, 01:52 AM   #13
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If you have the time pull the block. Replace at least the rubber tube for the crankcase breather (available from the Dlr for like 30 and of course the oil pan gasket. If you have more time then replace the wrist pins and while you're at those, the con rod bearings. Rear and front main and the intermidiate shaft seal, only the latter two if not pulling block.
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Old 02-20-2019, 01:52 AM   #14
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Sorry about the double post
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