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Old 02-24-2016, 04:20 PM   #76
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**** I didn't worry about that on mine either and my junk isn't adjustable. 2 piece driveshaft ftw tho.
Didn't you use the stock driveshaft with a conversion ujoint, or am I making that up?
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Old 02-24-2016, 04:21 PM   #77
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no it had to be shortened and a new yoke welded on, but it's a stock prop shaft.
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Old 02-24-2016, 06:21 PM   #78
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**** I didn't worry about that on mine either and my junk isn't adjustable. 2 piece driveshaft ftw tho.
Single and I don't care
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Old 02-24-2016, 06:27 PM   #79
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Single and I don't care
no one is questioning your life choices here... ;)
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Old 02-24-2016, 08:10 PM   #80
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no one is questioning your life choices here... ;)
That made me laugh!
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Old 02-28-2016, 07:20 PM   #81
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The power steering rack and the sway bar have no clearance issues now. I had to spacer down the trans crossmember by 1.25 inches to get the required clearance. I will fab up a new crossmember once I get this thing running and get the right suspension in there. Then I can measure driveshaft angle. The fit on the mounts is so close. Any taller and the truck intake wouldn't fit and any lower and it would not clear the rack and crossmember. Overall well engineered.

Last edited by Ttownthomas; 02-28-2016 at 08:04 PM..
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Old 02-28-2016, 08:03 PM   #82
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Fuel sender is out. Had to work at it for about 20 minutes to get it loose. Plus it barely seemed to fit through the the opening. Not really sure how I'm going to get it back in with the new pump.

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

We are going to either braze or tig weld -6 AN bungs on the steel tubes. It cleaned up ok but needs some more work.

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

Can anybody tell me if this white plastic wiring housing pops off or is it a permanent part of the sending unit?
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Old 02-28-2016, 10:16 PM   #83
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Fuel sender is out. Had to work at it for about 20 minutes to get it loose. Plus it barely seemed to fit through the the opening. Not really sure how I'm going to get it back in with the new pump.
You have to hold your mouth just right. If you want to avoid the TIG/braze scenario, you can cut/drill and bolt in bulkhead AN fittings.
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Old 02-28-2016, 10:59 PM   #84
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You have to hold your mouth just right. If you want to avoid the TIG/braze scenario, you can cut/drill and bolt in bulkhead AN fittings.
That's plan B
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:20 PM   #85
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Fuel sender is out. Had to work at it for about 20 minutes to get it loose. Plus it barely seemed to fit through the the opening. Not really sure how I'm going to get it back in with the new pump.

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

We are going to either braze or tig weld -6 AN bungs on the steel tubes. It cleaned up ok but needs some more work.

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

Can anybody tell me if this white plastic wiring housing pops off or is it a permanent part of the sending unit?
It does, theres a little metal tab spot welded to the top of the sending unit, remove that and the plug works its way out.

You're going to have like zero wrench clearance to try and tighten the fittings with the sender installed.

Trick for reinstallation is to shorten the pickup tube alot, so that the ping pong ball can tuck under the pump/sock and go into the tank first. I have a fat turbine style pump and it goes in and out easier than the stock setup.
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:43 PM   #86
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These pumps are about the same size as a turbo 240 pumps. Don't touch white plastic on the sender no reason too. The sending units fit in just like stock units
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Old 03-27-2016, 08:33 AM   #87
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Fuel System. I used fragola push type hose. I like the extras security of having the hose clamps. Ill add a picture of the ends later.

image by ttownthomas, on Flickr

Had to cut the ends of the sending unit shorter because the tig welding did not work well:
image by ttownthomas, on Flickr
Then ever-so-slightly drilled out the AN6 ends so they would fit over the tube:
image by ttownthomas, on Flickr
This is prior to Brazing:
image by ttownthomas, on Flickr
Now that most of the under-car stuff is done I finally had the car brought to my house.
image by ttownthomas, on Flickr
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Old 03-27-2016, 12:31 PM   #88
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Here are the hose ends in the pickup location

image by ttownthomas, on Flickr
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Old 03-27-2016, 12:33 PM   #89
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This is the sending unit after brazing. Brazing is interesting. I had no idea how strong it is until doing some homework.

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Old 03-27-2016, 12:47 PM   #90
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Unfortunately I have had multiple fitment issues. The car does not appear to have been in an accident but nothing has fit quite as expected.

1. The mounts did not leave enough clearance above the steering rack until I spaced town the transmission mount by a full 1.25 inches

2. The stock steering shaft rubbed the exhaust manifold. I thought the coleman racing steering shaft would fix it but it still rubbed. Then I elongated the holes on the u-bracket holding the column under the dash and moved it considerably over. probably about 1/4 inch. It still rubbed. The last resort was to take a sliver off of the manifold with my belt grinder. This finally created some needed clearance.

3. Does the envoy have a different Alternator and Power steering Bracket from the truck motor? It looks the same as the one in my Suburban but unfortunately the hood does not clear the alternator. I'm not even sure that cutting out the hood cross-supports will solve this fitment problem. The driver side of the hood sits up about 2 inches. Did anybody else have a problem fitting the alternator under the hood with these mounts?

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Old 03-27-2016, 01:42 PM   #91
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You have the dr44 high amp alternator. It's considerably larger than what is needed. Look for a cs130 out of a late model blazer or something. The hood will shut with some minor trimming on the support. On the steering shaft issue, just unbolt the stock one and flip it over for anybody else looking to do the swap. Should provide enough clearance if you're on a budget and it will still collapse like it should in an accident.
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Old 03-27-2016, 01:43 PM   #92
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Is that the 105A alt. Or the bigger one? The mounts were made for the small alt. Also by spacing the trans down, you raised the front of the engine up. Making your hood clearance less.
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Old 03-27-2016, 02:01 PM   #93
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You have the dr44 high amp alternator. It's considerably larger than what is needed. Look for a cs130 out of a late model blazer or something. The hood will shut with some minor trimming on the support. On the steering shaft issue, just unbolt the stock one and flip it over for anybody else looking to do the swap. Should provide enough clearance if you're on a budget and it will still collapse like it should in an accident.
Thanks for the alternator advice. Btw I tried to flip the steering shaft. I wanted to retain its safety feature. It wasn't even close either way.
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Old 03-27-2016, 02:14 PM   #94
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Thanks for the alternator advice. Btw I tried to flip the steering shaft. I wanted to retain its safety feature. It wasn't even close either way.

Well to clarify, I used a passenger side 2010 Camaro manifold flipped forward and down on the drivers side with a crossover pipe to the passenger side. I still had some clearance issues but flipping the shafts worked fine. I also had to lower the trans mount about an inch which I think only compounds the clearance issues noted. If you haven't ran your heater core line yet you may as well pull the pass through plate on the firewall and find a good place for it on the passenger side. You'll have a pretty tough time servicing those lines in the future
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Old 03-27-2016, 02:31 PM   #95
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Well to clarify, I used a passenger side 2010 Camaro manifold flipped forward and down on the drivers side with a crossover pipe to the passenger side. I still had some clearance issues but flipping the shafts worked fine. I also had to lower the trans mount about an inch which I think only compounds the clearance issues noted. If you haven't ran your heater core line yet you may as well pull the pass through plate on the firewall and find a good place for it on the passenger side. You'll have a pretty tough time servicing those lines in the future
It sure is a tight fit. I put those hoses on before the intake was bolted up.
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Old 03-27-2016, 02:57 PM   #96
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There are all kindsa front runner kits to put the accessories where you want em, maybe go that route?
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Old 03-27-2016, 06:25 PM   #97
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There are all kindsa front runner kits to put the accessories where you want em, maybe go that route?
Yes. That is my last resort plan. They are expensive and mostly would require me to buy a new water pump.
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Old 03-27-2016, 08:36 PM   #98
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Hopefully you won't experience what I did with the Fragola hose -- garage constantly smelled of gasoline. It doesn't meet current SAE requirements for barrier hose and the smaller molecules pass right through. I ended up pulling it all back off and replacing with hardline and SAE30R9 (now SAE30R14) efi hose.
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Old 03-27-2016, 09:24 PM   #99
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I'm using the small alternator, you can see the in the picture the difference in the height compared to the manifold.



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Old 03-27-2016, 10:31 PM   #100
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Hopefully you won't experience what I did with the Fragola hose -- garage constantly smelled of gasoline. It doesn't meet current SAE requirements for barrier hose and the smaller molecules pass right through. I ended up pulling it all back off and replacing with hardline and SAE30R9 (now SAE30R14) efi hose.
I guess we shall see. Where did you get your hard line?
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