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Old 03-27-2016, 10:36 PM   #101
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I'm using the small alternator, you can see the in the picture the difference in the height compared to the manifold.
Did u have to trim the hood?
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Old 03-28-2016, 07:57 AM   #102
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I guess we shall see. Where did you get your hard line?
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Old 03-28-2016, 12:23 PM   #103
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Did u have to trim the hood?
No
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Old 03-28-2016, 09:30 PM   #104
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Hood fits with the smaller alternator. Thanks again to all
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Old 04-14-2016, 01:17 PM   #105
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I used the 1987 Corvette radiator with integrated transmission cooler. It is an idea from www.Jagsthatrun.com. It fits perfectly and I picked up this SPAL electric fan unit from a seller on ebay. There were identical looking chinese knockoffs but I opted for the genuine thing. The fan assembly is very hefty. It seemed like it was going to be a good fit but it ended up being more perfect than I had imagined. Fits snugly on either side.

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

I bought some home depot aluminum L channel and riveted it to both the radiator support and the fan assembly.

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

Then clamped it in place to make the brackets from aluminum flat bar.

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

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Last edited by Ttownthomas; 04-14-2016 at 02:03 PM..
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Old 04-14-2016, 07:06 PM   #106
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why go through all of the hassle when a 94 940 non turbo radiator drops right in? Taller by about an inch
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Old 04-15-2016, 12:48 AM   #107
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why go through all of the hassle when a 94 940 non turbo radiator drops right in? Taller by about an inch
LOL. Good question. It woulda been cheaper too. I was not aware of the advantages until I just googled it.
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Old 04-15-2016, 12:49 AM   #108
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Power steering pressure line was made by a local hydraulic shop. I took them the GM line and the volvo Line and they made up a new one.

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

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Last edited by Ttownthomas; 04-15-2016 at 01:12 AM.. Reason: added photo
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Old 04-15-2016, 01:08 AM   #109
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Pinned out the PCM with instructions from www.lt1swap.com. The step by step instructions for the Truck Harness were pretty close. It took about 4 hours but I now have a much better understanding of the inputs the PCM uses. Basically you need to pull out unused circuits from the PCM, Remove unused sensors from harness and label all the wires that connect to the new fuse box or to another external spot (like speedo, tach, OBDII port, etc.

I pulled off and left off all the wire covering so if something doesn't work I wont have to pull it all apart again

I spent tonight extending a few of the remaining wires so I am ready to go when my fuse box parts show up.

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

Here it is cleaned up a bit and after I re-routed what I could to reduce clutter in the Volvo bay.

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

These are the wires that don't connect to an engine connector. All the pink and orange wires go to the fuse block and a few of the other colors will too for relay controlled items (fans and fuel pump).

Left over will be:

Tach, OBDII signal, Speedometer output (Hopefully my research is correct; 10,042 pulse per mile sine wave), Check Engine Light, Cruise control Release.

Untitled by ttownthomas, on Flickr

I think I will be able to wire the cruise control wires from the TAC module to the volvo stalk. That is for a later date. Still have to figure out how to mount the DBW pedal.
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Old 04-15-2016, 01:51 AM   #110
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Quote:
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Power steering pressure line was made by a local hydraulic shop. I took them the GM line and the volvo Line and they made up a new one.
I'll be honest - I'm surprised you needed to. My Volvo-OE PS line mated up directly, just had to give it a little bit of snake to clear everything. It was an ABS car though - slightly different routing on the metal part near the fitting to go to the pump. I also test-fit the high-side line from an older 76-84 system, but the lack of 270-degree bend made it a worse fit. I did use an early low-pressure line - the lack of metal line at the rack made it easier to snake around.

I'm not sure if the LH2.4 era cruise control stalks are different, but the leads on K-jet/LH2.0 stalks seem to have continuity between each control in weird ways beyond what people on ls1tech describe as "switches that are normally closed that need to be normally open."
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Old 04-15-2016, 05:19 AM   #111
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Just an fyi, you don't want to have your radiator solid mounted like that. That's why every radiator you see in every production car is mounted on rubber mounts. It's prevents electrolysis and stress cracking. Electrolysis is a common problem and it eats radiators
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Old 04-15-2016, 10:27 PM   #112
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Check my thread out and see how I mounted the DBW pedal. Super easy
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Old 04-16-2016, 08:48 AM   #113
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I'll be honest - I'm surprised you needed to. My Volvo-OE PS line mated up directly, just had to give it a little bit of snake to clear everything. It was an ABS car though - slightly different routing on the metal part near the fitting to go to the pump. I also test-fit the high-side line from an older 76-84 system, but the lack of 270-degree bend made it a worse fit. I did use an early low-pressure line - the lack of metal line at the rack made it easier to snake around.
The Volvo power steering line would have bolted up but it sealed with a flange and the gm factory line sealed with an o-ring
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Old 04-16-2016, 08:51 AM   #114
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Just an fyi, you don't want to have your radiator solid mounted like that. That's why every radiator you see in every production car is mounted on rubber mounts. It's prevents electrolysis and stress cracking. Electrolysis is a common problem and it eats radiators
The bottom of the radiator rests on the factory rubber mounts. Mabee I should use plastic fasteners and a rubber grommet to isolate my "L" brackets
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Old 04-16-2016, 10:18 AM   #115
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The top doesn't.
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Old 04-17-2016, 10:27 PM   #116
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The top doesn't.
Right. I'm agreeing with you. The top should be easy to isolate with some grommets. I plan to take your advice.
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Old 04-27-2016, 08:26 PM   #117
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Default Drive By Wire Pedal Mounting

Fabbed up the old envoy pedal. First problem was that the envoy pedal had a jog/dogleg thing that needed to be straightened out. Then it was not the right angle. v-cut, bent and welded the envoy pedal to fit. Then we made this bracket out of flat bar and L channel.

image by ttownthomas, on Flickrimage by ttownthomas, on Flickr
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Old 04-27-2016, 08:27 PM   #118
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I had to re-order some connectors for the fuse block. They come in tomorrow so I think I will be able to start hooking up the harness this weekend.
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Old 04-27-2016, 08:38 PM   #119
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Classy!

I pretty much did what Texas240 did, only with my adjustable-style GMT360 pedal (and I've got a spare non-adjustable one, now :p). You'll be running years ahead of me!
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Old 04-27-2016, 08:50 PM   #120
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Classy!

I pretty much did what Texas240 did, only with my adjustable-style GMT360 pedal (and I've got a spare non-adjustable one, now :p). You'll be running years ahead of me!

Thanks. I followed Texas 240's lead too. I'm hoping to be running by the end of may. I still need to do the intake tube, exhaust, driveshaft and finish the electrical. Then it will be on to getting all the little stuff fixed. This thing needed alot of work when i got it. Sunroof doesn't work, trim missing, super dirty interior, needs new carpet etc.
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Old 05-01-2016, 04:11 PM   #121
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The Volvo power steering line would have bolted up but it sealed with a flange and the gm factory line sealed with an o-ring
Might be a year model thing (mine's an '04 too, though), but I pulled my pump today, and it's an identical fitting. Maybe it just works with multiple hose fitting types?
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Old 05-30-2016, 09:47 PM   #122
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Default Fabbed up a trans mount. I did not like the look/clearance of all those spacers

Built the center section first





Then made these L brackets with 3 holes instead of the factory 2



Bolted the center section and the side sections up, jacked up the trans and then measured, cut and welded in the cross supports.



Last edited by Ttownthomas; 05-30-2016 at 09:50 PM.. Reason: missed a picture
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Old 05-30-2016, 09:58 PM   #123
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Also got the driveshaft back from the driveline shop. They installed a new carrier bearing and that rubber donut thing that is part of the bearing assembly.

Now onto mating the GM shifter with the volvo.
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Old 06-08-2016, 06:03 AM   #124
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Looking great, I bet your trans x member could survive a nuclear blast!
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Old 08-18-2016, 11:00 PM   #125
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OK. I had a work fiasco that stopped the progress for awhile. Now that I'm back to it I re-routed some cooling hoses, tidied up the wiring and spent alot of time figuring out the shifter. I do not like the lokar shifter thingy. It looks out of place and I am going for a sleeper stock look. I tried and tried to figure a way to adapt the GM envoy floor shifter to the volvo but just could not get to a point where I liked the design. I did some measuring with the factory GM shifter and cable and the volvo shift lever and I figured out that I could mate them. You have to loop the cable around but it works. I welded steel flat onto the volvo shifter lever to extend it and then drilled a series of holes to create some adjustability (shift throw length). Then I created this box to bolt to the bottom of the body of the car for adjustability(park detent position). Welded up the box and tapped the sides of the inner assembly with an M8x1.25 tap and thew in some flange bolts for a friction fit.

These pictures were the preliminary design. I did end up pie cutting the shifter lever near the pivot and putting an angle in it and then welding in the snap-in-place nipple from the gm shifter but the idea was sound. It works! The detents in the volvo shift design mate up remarkably well. I have not yet figured in any shift lockout so I do need to be a bit careful until I get around to that part.

IMG_4511 by ttownthomas, on Flickr

IMG_4514 by ttownthomas, on Flickr

IMG_4508 by ttownthomas, on Flickr

IMG_4509 by ttownthomas, on Flickr

IMG_4515 by ttownthomas, on Flickr

I forgot to take photos of the thing installed before I put the car back on the ground. Ill get a photo at the muffler shop when they put it up in the air. Then I Filled it with trans fluid and backed it out of the garage for the first time in months. It badly needed a bath

Im sure the people in my HOA will be sending a letter because it is remarkably loud! Off to the muffler shop ASAP

Last edited by Ttownthomas; 08-18-2016 at 11:08 PM.. Reason: added a sentence
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