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Old 05-19-2016, 08:21 PM   #26
900exdriver
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If you need an extra hand let me know I'd be glad to help.
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Old 05-19-2016, 08:30 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Marvelous3 View Post
Took the master cylinder off and redid the bench bleed. I was able to get some air bubbles out so I might be onto something.
Progress is progress!!
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Going to pizza with my wife and see if I feel like trying to bleed the system again tonight. Probably not though.
It's good to have priorities, lol.
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Old 05-19-2016, 08:40 PM   #28
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I just did a whole front and rear with R calipers with the stock master cylinder. I installed a Brand NEW and bench bleed it before I started bleeding the brakes using the petal method.

I also did a customers car just the R fronts this time and I had a huge problem with his brakes. The brakes kept locking up in the rear when I slammed on the brakes. The petal was SUPER soft, and almost felt like a bad master IMO. It took me a couple of hours bleeding the brakes trying figuring out the issue, so I replace all the old rubber brakes line replace it with SS ones that IPD sells and it helped 100%
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Old 05-22-2016, 02:44 AM   #29
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So I've rebench bled the master and gone through a couple more bottles of brake fluid but still have a pedal that if I hold down on it sinks to the floor. I'm kind of at a loss as to what I need to do different or what I'm missing?

The order I've got is:
front left inner
front left outer
front right inner
front right outer
rear left
rear right

For the fronts I've been pumping the brake pedal 5 times after I open the bleeder valve as instructed by the green book.
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Old 05-22-2016, 02:47 AM   #30
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I haven't installed a rod extension like dave barton did on his car. I don't think that's my problem but maybe?

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Old 05-22-2016, 02:47 AM   #31
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That sucks.

I might open a beer, cut a bike inner tube, tie one end, place other end on master cylinder rolled over and hose clamped, inflate tube, then bleed RR, RL, FR, FL.

At the shop my favorite fluid pulling tool be the:




That being said, the pulling method doesn't work the best. The best method is honestly somebody in the driver seat. I put a man in the air and we try to communicate the best we can and bleed the hell outta it. It should eventually work!
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Old 05-22-2016, 07:32 AM   #32
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I haven't installed a rod extension like dave barton did on his car. I don't think that's my problem but maybe?

That is definitely your problem. I should have thought of that before.
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Old 05-22-2016, 09:46 AM   #33
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^^you wouldn't happen to know what side that extender is would you?
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Old 05-22-2016, 02:53 PM   #34
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I've got a firm pedal!

Okay I went to the hardware store and got a rod coupling in 1/4-20. The push rod on a 240 brake booster has a SAE bolt with ball cap so I was able to find a SAE to USS stud. I then screwed the SAE portion of the stud into the push rod then was able to screw the rod coupling onto that. Bolted the master cylinder back up and I've got a stiff pedal. ****ing finally.

I probably need to see if I can find a short SAE stud that I can put an acorn nut onto like the oem bolt but it works for now.
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Old 05-22-2016, 03:02 PM   #35
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Yeah it helps when your rod depth is correct!

I personally don't have a Volvo rod depth measurer, but I do know it has to be correct'ish.

I have slapped master cylinders on without measuring and I guess I just got lucky, but to avoid this, I generally purchase a used master cylinder WITH booster from the junkyard together. It's something I have to do every 10 years or so!
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Old 05-23-2016, 07:45 PM   #36
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Still think I need to play around with the rod length. I get a solid brake pedal but there's more travel in the pedal before the brakes engage than I'd like.
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Old 03-13-2019, 06:18 PM   #37
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what rod length did you end up with? and does a 1/4-20 rod screw right on to the shaft?
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Old 03-13-2019, 07:08 PM   #38
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what rod length did you end up with? and does a 1/4-20 rod screw right on to the shaft?
I don't remember off the top of my head how long it was but it was just whatever they had at the store. Maybe 1"? It really doesn't need to be that long from what I remember.
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Old 03-13-2019, 10:23 PM   #39
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what rod length did you end up with? and does a 1/4-20 rod screw right on to the shaft?
go to homers thread on installing Porsche calipers. You use the same mustang master
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Old 03-15-2019, 09:25 PM   #40
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^ This and or tap on the proportioning valves with the handle of a screwdriver while you bleed them to break up the bubbles.

Also after having the system open I always abandon the official order initially, and bleed the top fronts first, [air rises] and then the fronts so as to NOT send any air out back to be trapped in the proportioning valves.

& INB4 defective rebuilt calipers...

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Every master I've had to bleed required that I route the lines back into the reservoir, below the fluid level, and pump it slowly multiple times (10 or 12) to circulate fluid through the system.

I just finished an R-caliper upgrade on my 262C...had the exact same problem. Ended up performing a give-and-take operation whereby I would power bleed both bleeder screws at the same time, followed up with "aggressive" break pedal pumping. I probably went through an entire gallon of fluid (after a while you can retain it) in the process but she eventually bleed out all the air.

The stock master on mine was big enough to push all four R-calipers...i would think it was big enough to push a pair of caddy's and reman's...but you've got the Mustang master so, yeah....should be golden...
I always start with hard lines looped and submerged when bench bleeding, then closest caliper first, farthest last.
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Old 03-15-2019, 11:34 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by 77volvo245 View Post
IMO. It took me a couple of hours bleeding the brakes trying figuring out the issue, so I replace all the old rubber brakes line replace it with SS ones that IPD sells and it helped 100%
All the rubber lines should be replaced any time calipers get changed/rebuilt as a rule. They are cheap, you are in there and it is safety. They swell and break down on the inside and make bleeding a nightmare, plus they are ready to die. Stainless not necessary, just good quality new rubber lines

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still have a pedal that if I hold down on it sinks to the floor.
Here is your clue. That is classic symptoms of a master cylinder with bad seals. I have had one reman and one brand new one come with bad seals out of the box from rock auto recently. The new one had rust inside from sitting on the shelf.
Luckly both times they overnighted a replacement that worked, no hassles.
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Old Today, 10:26 AM   #42
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I can tell you I wa t through the same when I did mine. The rod that pushes the plunger on the master needs to be tweaked. Meaning it needs to be extended.
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Old Today, 10:58 AM   #43
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I can tell you I wa t through the same when I did mine. The rod that pushes the plunger on the master needs to be tweaked. Meaning it needs to be extended.
Careful here....
If there is a length mismatch, the point you get a firm pedal will either be to far or too little in the pedal travel. Be sure that there are no other problems before changing the rod length. If you adjust the length to overcome another problem, you could be limiting the master cylinder travel and/or causing it to go too far into the cylinder.A couple months down the road when you bleed the brakes again for whatever reason, and get that air out, then the brakes don't quite release fully anymore, you know why. The rod is too long and keeping static pressure on the master cylinder.

What should not happen is when you step on the pedal, it feels firm(even for a second) and then gets mushy.

If there is not air in the system, and none of the master cylinder seals are bypassing, and the hoses are good, the pedal should hit a firm spot, in the same spot every time, and you should be able to hold your foot on it for days without anything changing. If that spot is too close to the floor, lengthen the rod.

One time I had a car with firm pedal for a second or two, then it would bleed off a bit and then get firm and stay there. I read that brake hoses can internally swell and cause this. Basically there was air in one of the back calipers and due to a very restricted brake hose, it took a while for the fluid to make it through, to compress the air. It was also why that wheel was hard to bleed. Replaced the hose and bled and the pedal now behaved correctly.
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Old Today, 12:27 PM   #44
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Careful how? It was the problem. Works great now.
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Old Today, 03:42 PM   #45
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The careful part is to make sure there are no other issues before lengthening rod, or when you fix those issues later, the rod may end up too long.
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Old Today, 04:00 PM   #46
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^^ so when you change to the mustang master cylinder you have to lengthen the rod.
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Old Today, 05:03 PM   #47
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Yes exactly. Mustang master needs the longer throw.
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