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Vintage D-Jet AAV Disassembly

sksmith

sksmith

Active member
Joined
Nov 14, 2007
Location
Back in St. Louis, MO
Question about the AAV for my 73 with D-Jetronic.
Has anyone disassembled one, mine is stuck shut.
I've done some googling, and it seems that the Benz & Jag ones are able to be pressed apart so that the thermosatic bulb can be replaced and the slide piston can be cleaned/lubed.
Has anyone successfully do this with a Volvo AAV?
Thanks,
Steve
 
Go to
volvoforums.org.uk

Register and search for

EFI intake plumbing

and you?ll find a long thread on AAV?s. it?s an excellent site with lots of info on classic Volvo?s


Let us know How you make out.
 
My brother, hiperfauto, rebuilt and tested his 1st D-jet AAV a few days ago and it appeared to work.

We're probably going to install on his 142E or on a customers 1800ES.
 
planetman said:
My brother, hiperfauto, rebuilt and tested his 1st D-jet AAV a few days ago and it appeared to work.

We're probably going to install on his 142E or on a customers 1800ES.
Click to expand...

Details!!!!!
I have mine soaking in Kroil at the moment. Still need to take the head & engine to my local machine shop, but getting all the components ready.
If he took any pics, please share.
Thanks,
Steve
 
c1800 said:
Pictures are in the volvoforums.org.uk thread.
Click to expand...

Aah!!!
Should've paid attention to your handle (c1800)..... I was searching the 140/164 folder & coming up with nothing but heater valve questions. Helps when I go, "what about the 1800 folder"... Duh!
Ok, I found your photos. I didn't realize the piece on the top, where the top hose goes in, is just pressed in. It looked to be machined or forged.
I will give this method a shot later tonight & post back on whether or not I have any luck.
Thanks!
Steve
 
Got it apart.
21mm deep socket & a dead-blow hammer. Placed it in the vice, like your photos show, took a few minutes to start, but it was apart in less than 10 minutes total. Now it's soaking in Kroil again. I'll go back out after dinner & see clean it up / reassemble it.
Some photos to follow.
Thanks c1800!
Steve
 
Pics:

ljlAg5f.jpg


T2pBNjc.jpg


tsS6Y0T.jpg
 
sksmith said:
Details!!!!!
I have mine soaking in Kroil at the moment. Still need to take the head & engine to my local machine shop, but getting all the components ready.
If he took any pics, please share.
Thanks,
Steve
Click to expand...

The AAV I repaired wasn't stuck, the wax thermostat element was bad. Having never taken one apart before I followed the instructions provided by AAVpart.com ... sort of. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures.

AAVpart.com_Instructions.jpg


I placed the valve in a vice with brass jaws to protect the part, clamped a pair of vice grips on the bulb as recommended in the instructions (it's getting replaced anyway), heated the body of the valve and tapped on the vice grips until the assembly came out.

Instead of grinding the lip off the element housing as suggested I clamped the bulb in the vice and used a round bar to tap the crimped lip outward so the washer will come out. The housing is made from very soft aluminum and it doesn't take much effort.

After thoroughly cleaning the element housing I installed the new element in a bead of Permatex red high temp silicone followed by another small bead into which I laid the largest o-ring that would fit before replacing the washer, clamping the whole thing together with some sockets and a C-clamp and tapping the lip back over the washer. Without something like an o-ring or gasket to fill the space between the element and washer, the element is loose in the housing. The instructions tell you to just fill the cavity with silicone and clamp the washer in place until the silicone sets.

Of course I cleaned and inspected the plunger and AAV housing bore and lubricated them while it was apart.

24 hours later the valve can be re-assembled using the Loctite specified. Instead of vise grips and a thin wrench, I used some sockets and the vice to squeeze the assembly back together and left it overnight to fully cure.

I did not however use the AAVpart.com element. I had spoken with another forum member who installed one and had issues with a high idle. A customer of mine had a similar experience and managed to locate a replacement element that's much cheaper and that works correctly. It even has the same -30? stamped into the bulb.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/mahle/clevite,TX10330,thermostat,2200

TX10330-BOT-10-28-13__ra_p.jpg
 
If all you want to do is “make it work”, I suggest a work around: Buy a Normally-closed electric Valve for under $10, connect your AAV hoses to the valve and wire it to a dash switch(I used a 142 Lighted Hazard switch for vintage look)so you can manually open the new AAV ELECTRIC VAlve on start-up, the lighted switch being the reminder to shut it off once you hav e driven a few miles. You will, of course, plug the AAV inlet and outlets, or just put a Gasketed plate on the block after you take out the bad AAV.
 
SWE-PHI said:
If all you want to do is ?make it work?, I suggest a work around: Buy a Normally-closed electric Valve for under $10, connect your AAV hoses to the valve and wire it to a dash switch(I used a 142 Lighted Hazard switch for vintage look)so you can manually open the new AAV ELECTRIC VAlve on start-up, the lighted switch being the reminder to shut it off once you hav e driven a few miles. You will, of course, plug the AAV inlet and outlets, or just put a Gasketed plate on the block after you take out the bad AAV.
Click to expand...

16 month old thread...
 
sksmith said:
Question about the AAV for my 73 with D-Jetronic.
Has anyone disassembled one, mine is stuck shut.
I've done some googling, and it seems that the Benz & Jag ones are able to be pressed apart so that the thermosatic bulb can be replaced and the slide piston can be cleaned/lubed.
Has anyone successfully do this with a Volvo AAV?
Thanks,
Steve
Click to expand...
I do it- woodystrauser1@gmail.com
 
hiperfauto said:
I did not however use the AAVpart.com element. I had spoken with another forum member who installed one and had issues with a high idle. A customer of mine had a similar experience and managed to locate a replacement element that's much cheaper and that works correctly. It even has the same -30? stamped into the bulb.
Click to expand...
I believe this is the issue I'm facing on a 1800e currently. I would guess that there isn't a possibility of adjustment and that replacing the bulb with the above mentioned unit is the most viable solution?
 
Correct, there is no adjustment. When cold the spring opens the air passage. When warm the wax expands and closes the valve completely. When the bulb fails it can't overpower the spring so the passage stays open and the idle stays high.
 
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