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Kenny's 1990 740 GLE, goin' for 9's

That is bizarre. Maybe before you weld them try the stock balancer, but really cant see how that would fix anything, seems like tons of other stuff would come loose, or other members thought would have issues. Second thought, weld them.

nothing else is loosening up though. I would think (and I don't try to over-analyze this stuff, but at this point blind rage starts taking effect) if it was a balance issue I would have other things breaking or cracking, etc. I mean the car isn't pleasant to sit in, but that has more to do with the rather non-compliant engine mounts than anything else. It's no more buzzy than any other 4 cylinder, sounds healthy, runs out fine, etc.

It doesn't develop an engine-speed related harmonic at any point (that's readily noticeable over any of the other loud noises)..


+1000 on the safety wire. If you safety wire them and it's breaking through the .032 or .040 wire you most likely will use, then it's bc of devil magic and the converter just wants to never ever be in your car.
Or get extra long bolts that go through the flywheel and put steel locknuts on the other side.

I can't get to the back side of the plate once the converter is bolted on. I drilled and pinned the bolts that hold the converter to the adapter plate after they started coming loose.

come to think of it.. I'm not 100% sure the old converter had this issue.. it just wouldn't stall worth a **** and there were concerns that it wouldn't take the heat. I reckon I can toss it back in for S&G and if it balloons, it balloons.


I'll check those out in a sec

I don't see ty straps fixing that, weld em.

haha but I got the extra dense black zip ties! :(

Is it possible that the rotating assembly is that out of balance? I know that's a long shot, and probably not the case. I guess I lean towards the balancer as well.

I'd think I would feel it? maybe not, but everything mass'd out when it was put together five years ago +- a very small amount, I may have notes on that floating around, what are the acceptable differences? As I recall, it was primarily weight differences in the rods of +- a gram or two?
 
aaand the converter bolts backed out. wtf.

I'm lost. two different converters, two different transmissions, had the dowel pin issue but that was resolved. car still hasn't had but maybe 30 or 40 miles put on it since then, loctite with new converter bolts, sitting in the driveway in neutral playing with the launch and boost control stuff (which, frustratingly enough, also isn't working) when, rev clatter clatter clatter clatter. hm. key off, reach under, shake converter, clank clank clank. ****.

I've tried: loc-tite red (the make it almost ****ing impossible to get the bolts out stuff) with stage 8 bolts, after putting tabs on another flexplate, whatever the issue is it was enough to round off the lock tabs on the stage 8's and loosen them up; I've tried various combinations of stock fasteners and profanity to no avail, figured out the dowel pin missing back when the engine went into the car in sept, and thought surely that was the end of the issue... it all lines up the way it should when it's going together, I've put more force on these bolts than I did even on the 940's converter bolts, and no problems with that thing at all.

come to think of it, when I ran an aw71 behind this engine pre-totalus-90-us, bolts coming loose was never an issue there either.

I still have the billet crank pulley on the front that I can ditch (I don't need it for the trigger wheel anymore), and it's a 2.5 vs the 940 being a 2.3, but I mean ****.. wtf.

Well im not there and I don't visualize well, but i had an issue like this with a big Hino mated to an AT545.
I suspected the flex plate but wound up having the flex plate and torque converter redrilled and tapped for 14mm bolts.
I dont know what fixed it. The bigger bolts or the new holes.
 
i've already given you the answer many of times. this just comes down to laziness.

the very last time this crept up it was discovered that a dowel pin was missing from the block. that was resolved, the fasteners were replaced as was the flexplate.

well that just means you never fixed it,,, time to quit bitchin' and start fixin'

clearly.

so we've reached this conclusion:
replace crank pulley
drill out to M25's
seam weld bolts to flexplate
?
apply fire to chassis.
profit.

but seriously.. this time it's going to be tack and pulley, and when I have the engine/trans out for the shell swap in a few months I'll install the new converter adapter plate with larger hardware, red loctite, nordloc washers, and maybe even safety wire(although I doubt the plate is the issue). I say maybe on the safety wire only because I'm struggling a little with how I'll go about doing that and having clearance. I reckon as long as I keep it at or below the level of the bolt heads it should be fine.

does this sound like a reasonable plan of action? Have I left something out?
 
Well at least you are staying reasonable. I would be so pissed by now that I would have given honest thought to throwing a small tack weld on those bolts...
 
the very last time this crept up it was discovered that a dowel pin was missing from the block. that was resolved, the fasteners were replaced as was the flexplate.



clearly.

so we've reached this conclusion:
replace crank pulley
drill out to M25's
seam weld bolts to flexplate
?
apply fire to chassis.
profit.

but seriously.. this time it's going to be tack and pulley, and when I have the engine/trans out for the shell swap in a few months I'll install the new converter adapter plate with larger hardware, red loctite, nordloc washers, and maybe even safety wire(although I doubt the plate is the issue). I say maybe on the safety wire only because I'm struggling a little with how I'll go about doing that and having clearance. I reckon as long as I keep it at or below the level of the bolt heads it should be fine.

does this sound like a reasonable plan of action? Have I left something out?

What crank pulley do you have now? You want an ATI or something similar.

the sure fire way imo is to do a combination of things, redrill and tap to a m12x1.0 thread pitch. the finer the thread the more resistant it is to loosening. You can also get an undersized tap so its more of an interference fit. You want something with a low H.

http://www.newmantools.com/taps/taptech.htm

Using the proper loctite thread retaining compound, not all "high strength loctite" will work in that application. Which were you using?

Use a nordlok washer under the fine pitch bolt that has the correct loctite on it.

and the final measure would be safety wire. If you do all of those things, those bolts will not back out. they may break because they can't stand up to the vibrations they are seeing now but they "ain't goin' nowhere"

you don't have to safety wire the bolts together, you can safety wire each bolt individually to a hole in the flex plate. http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/191176-1.html?redirected=1
 
billet alu underdrive pulley.

when I re-tap it I'd like to make sure I keep the steel inserts (well, in this case, would need to replace with the appropriate size and pitch), are such available in a slightly undersized fit/will the m12x1.0 inserts work as intended in a slightly undersized hole? (two ways to ask the same question)
 
billet alu underdrive pulley.

when I re-tap it I'd like to make sure I keep the steel inserts (well, in this case, would need to replace with the appropriate size and pitch), are such available in a slightly undersized fit/will the m12x1.0 inserts work as intended in a slightly undersized hole? (two ways to ask the same question)

And you are wondering why you might be having vibrational issues? :doh:

I would of tossed that the first sign of having anything loosen.

I would start by just replacing that with an actual damper, that could be used to DAMPEN vibrations.

if that doesn't do it proceed to all the other advise i gave yah.

You can get keenserts on the tight side.

http://catalog.alcoafasteners.com/i...&by=prod&filter=0&categid=1053&prodid=3001547

You might need to go to standard threads to make life easy.
 
yep. I'll see if I have an old stock one laying around or if I'll have to order me one up.

If you have modified the weight of the rotating assembly from the factory it is not really going to be as effective as it should be. It will be better then an alum underdrive pulley but not as good as something like a silicon filled fluid damper.
 
are you suggesting aftermarket rods and pistons alter the weight of the rotating assembly? that's absurd sir.

I've heard and seen good and bad from the dampers, hopefully I don't have to go that route. I'd think if it was legitimately a vibration loosening things up that I'd see other things get loose too even if at a greater infrequency yea?
 
are you suggesting aftermarket rods and pistons alter the weight of the rotating assembly? that's absurd sir.

I've heard and seen good and bad from the dampers, hopefully I don't have to go that route. I'd think if it was legitimately a vibration loosening things up that I'd see other things get loose too even if at a greater infrequency yea?


No bob weights needed on a L4. We all know that.
I like the fluid damper idea for other reasons but I doubt that's the T/C bolt problem.

I'd still be looking at that flex plate and your bellhousing/adapter etc. Got a spare TH350 case?

I twisted a couple hundred feet of safety wire back in the day.
I know guys sometimes do the flywheel bolts but I'd be anxious about that weak ass wire hanging on for dear life to those torque converter bolts.
 
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