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3 sets of fuel pumps failed

Front probing is a bad practice.

I edited the above post so recheck it for some ideas. Needle probes, sewing needles, terminal test tools, or make a test lead from old components is a good idea too.

Set it to amps and run it inline. I would probably go for the fuse since it's easy to access. This is a 240. Pull the fuse and attach an alligator clip onto each side of the fuse holder and measure. Crap, the fuse may only be for the rear pump. Maybe go under the rear seat and do your main fuel pump tests there.

Also, measure resistance of the ground circuit. Another advanced test is the voltage drop test. V
It's a very strong test for measuring a circuits ability to carry a load. Learn to do that too. It's how you find bad terminal crimps and wires that externally look ok and pass resistance tests.
 
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Starting to feel a little bit better about this challenge we've been going through. Took him for my 1/2 hour of errand running and the car ran great, no noise till after that 1/2 hour mark but even then he still ran fine even under hard acceleration. Got him home shut it off and connected the VOM inline to get a reading of draw. Restarted and the draw was 3.9 down to 2.9 on occasion and sort of went with the whine of the pump and did not draw more even when I pressed the accelerator. I still don't trust him so haven't taken it out any further and at this point and wondering if all I'm dealing with is a louder than a Bosch fuel pump. R.
 
That's it Ralph. Your mechanic will have to navigate the plumbing associated with removing the under-car/in-line pump and replacing it with hi-pressure efi rated hose from the outlet of the pump/sender assembly to the hardline exiting the pump you'd get rid of. Also may want to look at wire size for that circuit. The single in-tank will pull more current than the current in-tank pump. I just pulled the hot wire from the in-line pump into the passenger compartment and extended it into the trunk - tied it in with the other hot wire for the in-tank pump. Plenty of current carrying capacity in those two circuits to support the single pump in the tank.

If you think you might ever re-power the 242 --- then now would be the time to go ahead and put a bigger pump in the tank. I use the DW300 on mine.
 
I had to slightly enlarge the plastic clamp that the OEM unit uses. I don’t know if the 100 and the 300 are the same diameter or not. And, of course, make up the wiring connections. Remember - the current hose from the pump output/tank to the suction side of the inline pump is not rated for the higher pressure you’ll see if you go with just the intank replacement pump.
 
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Thanks Mike, I now have this pump on my Amazon Wishlist should it come to that. Haven't been able to get him out with all the rain and this week looks to be the same. R.
 
I just bought and installed a new gas cap, something I didn't think of earlier... Who knows. Next I'm going to replace all the vacuum hoses entering and leaving the charcoal filter/cannister and see if i can tell whether the valve on top is operable. If not, I'm also looking at an updated version to replace it with...
 
It's been reconnected for awhile. Are you thinking I should try my test drives (weather permitting) with both vacuum hoses disconnected?
 
Rain finally let up enough to get him out for a longer drive, 100 miles round trip. Ran really good but the pump was whining pretty good at the end of it with no failure. I finished changing out all the rubber vacuum lines for the charcoal cannister and even replaced it as well as the purge valve. The next step I guess is to install the Bosch unit I have on hand and see if it too makes noise then decide whether to go to the single in tank pump. One of my stops netted me a really nice parking spot in the shade and naturally out comes the Android camera; here's one...
 

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