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No start. Post engine swap and flywheel upgrade.

SEslayer

Dumber than I look.
Joined
Apr 17, 2013
Location
New Zealand
Recently bought. 2.3t car as donor for my CD009 2.0t 945.
Havent driven the car in 6months (lost my license) but i started it all the time and had a mate use it for a few weeks.
Completed engine swap and upgraded to yoshifab flywheel and clutch.
Car is timed correctly. (Checked 4 times now)
Has fuel to rail.
Has spark on all plugs.

I have changed the distributor (as donor car was running a linkg4) but i dont see how that could be an issue as its sparking.
Doubt its my halls as it was running and again. Its sparking.

Can i have misaligned the dizzy when i bolted it up to the new head as it is slotted? I know this wont change timing so i dont see how this could be issue, or would it possibly give a shorter/ weaker spark?

Injector plugs. The only seem to go on one way but i have tried swapping the two long ones over (1 and 4) to no avail. I never labeld them obviously.

I checked grounds to injector rail. Seem tight and clean, even moved them to be sure, but the plugs smell like fuel when i take them out so i feel they are firing.

I did not change the computers. As i am pretty sure a 2.0 and 2.3 will run on the same computer. Is this my issue? Is there something different that im missing? I do have a 2.3 computer at work i could bring home.

Once my cars running again hopefully ill get around to updating my build thread with thoughts on the swap.
 
By hand, rotate the engine to #1 TDC and check that:
- disti rotor points to #1 plug
- cam (thru oil cap) is "perky" on #1 valves
- plug wires as disti rotates are cyls 1-3-4-2
 
From front of engine plugs wired 4312 at dizzy. Engine has been rotated to tdc and checked both lobes pointed up and corresponded with the dead spot in flywheel being visible through starter motor hole.

The only thing i remember being fishy yesterday was with a timing light #4 flashed tdc.... which to me says its wired backwards or 180 out. So i did the old wire swap but nothing.
I so stumped. I just had a friend confirm that a 230 motor will run with a 200 ecu.
 
Make sure the distributor is rotating and the sparks you see is a continuous stream. If you just get one spark at the beginning of cranking. You may not have spark in the cylinders at the correct timing.

In general if the plugs are wet then it's a spark or timing issue.
 
#4 will fire at the TDC mark on the front pulley - it's 360 degrees away from #1 (in a 720 degree full cycle).
 
Injector pulse?

Did you install the correct resistance injectors or put in a resistor pack (if needed)?
 
What timing mark are you using to determine TDC? The outer portion of the front pulley with the marks can rotate on the center. Or be installed with the key not aligned.

Maybe try verifying TDC with a feeler in the #1 sparkplug hole.
 
Using crank pully to check tdc and using cam lobe location to confirm. When engine is at Tdc the flywheel shows the two "missing" teeth through the starter motor hole.

I havent messed with the injectors at all. Its a stock 230ft motor, surly my wiring should just plug in perfectly fine?

Spark is pulsing as i would expect when sparkplug is put onto strut tower.

I know it sounds like timing but its all the correct orientation and the only thing different is the yoshi fab flywheel. But i havent hear any issues with them so i dont feel its logical to jump to conclusions.
 
Using crank pully to check tdc and using cam lobe location to confirm. When engine is at Tdc the flywheel shows the two "missing" teeth through the starter motor hole.

I havent messed with the injectors at all. Its a stock 230ft motor, surly my wiring should just plug in perfectly fine?

Spark is pulsing as i would expect when sparkplug is put onto strut tower.

I know it sounds like timing but its all the correct orientation and the only thing different is the yoshi fab flywheel. But i havent hear any issues with them so i dont feel its logical to jump to conclusions.

If the cam was aligned using the pulley then it would be incorrect as well.

Try some starting fluid, spritz some into the intake and see if it will fire up and run for a few seconds. That's a good indication that it's a feul supply issue, not timing/ignition/compression/cam timing.
 
Engine came out of a running car so i know that's good. Only thing i did was bolt on the flywheel. Which i checked is correct using the cam.

Ill have to check the injector pulse on sunday when im home.
Ill also try some gas into the intake.
Will report back.
Any idea how to check if injectors are plugged to correct cylinder?
 
Ok so i just stopped by on my way home from work. Car fires imidiatly with starter fluid.
No idea how this noise suppression thing works.
Managed to find a thing on swedespeed about it.
Put into diagnostic mode. I could definitely hear atleast one injector testing? But maybe not the rest? How to i check the injector pulse. Really having issues with searching this up haha.
Also.
Thanks for all the help people!
 
Do you have injector power!?? Test lamp to injector positive to ground.




Do you have injector pulse?!!


With a test lamp backprobed between the two injector terminals.

Those Euro cars have an immobilizer that will cut injector pulse.
 
I think a multimeter should be able to check for injector pulse.

Plus, make sure that you're getting 12V+ on one terminal. The other terminal is grounded by the ECU to fire the injector.
 
A test lamp should be used to test the positive side of a circuit. A meter can show 12v, but there may not be enough current to operate the circuit

I recently did a training class where we had to diagnose the fault on a tampered car. One circuit had 12v on the meter, but there wasn't enough current (high resistance) to illuminate a test lamp. We used a meter in a rush and missed it.

Use a test lamp!
 
/\ /\ /\ Good point. I used a multimeter to see '12v' on he alternator exciter wire on my 240, but it was only a minuscule amount of current backflowing from somewhere in the instrument cluster. Plug that into the alternator and it would dive down close to 0, not enough to fire it off.
 
Thanks will do tomorrow!.
I really feel it has to be the injectors, if i dont have pulse then i need to replace my radio supresion relay right?
Thankfully i have a set of spare injectors laying around if they are just somehow stuck
 
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