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B230F Rear Main Housing

intothelabyrinth

Active member
Joined
Mar 20, 2012
Location
Bowling Green, KY
I had to pull the rear main housing on this 93 245 classic because when I got in there I found that 2 of the housing bolts were missing! I put it back with a new Volvo brand seal, and a new paper gasket. I cleaned all mating surfaces with acetone, then greased the crank and inner lip of the seal well. I rubbed a small amount of black rtv on both sides of the paper gasket, and on the bottom of the housing and the oil pan gasket where they mate up before offering up the seal and housing to the engine. I have a couple buddies who are saying it is going to leak for sure because I used rtv with the paper gasket. What do you guys think? Should I pull it off and redo it?
 
Why would it leak? They should explain their reasons. Ideally you should be sure to use a version of RTV made for the application. But you are also putting the stock gasket in there. Seems good to me.
 
"No RTV on a paper gasket. Use a paper gasket OR RTV, but never both. A paper gasket seals because the oil contact causes it to swell. Install paper gaskets with weatherstrip adhesive on the removable part side so it doesn't slip, and so you don't have to scrape so much off the block. 99% of leaking valve cover gaskets are leaking because of RTV on the gasket. RTV is a stand alone gasket maker/sealant. Put a thin bead of RTV on the block or part and run the bolts down finger tight. Wait two hours and then torque to spec. If you torque before the RTV cures, it just squeezes the sealant out and it'll leak."

I feel that it should be fine, but also I'd hate to put it all back and have it leak, so now I'm just second guessing myself. I suppose dropping the trans again wouldn't be the end of the world, especially now that it's all clean.
 
"No RTV on a paper gasket. Use a paper gasket OR RTV, but never both. A paper gasket seals because the oil contact causes it to swell. Install paper gaskets with weatherstrip adhesive on the removable part side so it doesn't slip, and so you don't have to scrape so much off the block. 99% of leaking valve cover gaskets are leaking because of RTV on the gasket. RTV is a stand alone gasket maker/sealant. Put a thin bead of RTV on the block or part and run the bolts down finger tight. Wait two hours and then torque to spec. If you torque before the RTV cures, it just squeezes the sealant out and it'll leak."

I feel that it should be fine, but also I'd hate to put it all back and have it leak, so now I'm just second guessing myself. I suppose dropping the trans again wouldn't be the end of the world, especially now that it's all clean.


Stop worrying and stop listening to your friends..
And stop using RTV. silicone..It belongs around the bathtub..

You want to make sure things don't leak?

Use a Drei-Bond GhmB product: Yama-Bond,
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Kawa-Bond,
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Suzi-Bond, Honda-Bond or Permatex Ultra-grey....

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Thin coat both sides, let air dry for 3-5 minutes, assemble..Gasket or no gasket...

The big problem with RTV silicone sealers is 98% apply them like tooth paste

how-to-brush-teeth.jpg


and they slap it together and tighten things up and squish out a pound of goooo

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or
Oil_Pan_Leak_1.jpg


and half ends up inside and ends up in oil pumps and oil gallery...

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You can imagine just how much fun that musta been for the poor bastid.
 
Thanks John. I used this black instant gasket rtv, which I think is very similar to the grey. I just used my gloved finger to rub the smallest amount I could on both sides of the gasket. Basically gluing the gasket to the housing, then I did the same to the bottom of the housing and the oil pan gasket where they meet. A little dab on the corners and I installed it. Hardly any squeezed out the sides when tightening down. Surely that did the job.
 
I use A THIN COATING of "The Right Stuff" RTV with all kinds of gaskets including some engine gaskets.

However, I don't normally use anything but Gasacinch on both sides of the rear main seal housing gasket. I use Gasacinch on the block and the engine side of the oil pan gasket, but I use The Right Stuff between the oil pan and oil pan gasket.



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Thanks John. I used this black instant gasket rtv, which I think is very similar to the grey. I just used my gloved finger to rub the smallest amount I could on both sides of the gasket. Basically gluing the gasket to the housing, then I did the same to the bottom of the housing and the oil pan gasket where they meet. A little dab on the corners and I installed it. Hardly any squeezed out the sides when tightening down. Surely that did the job.

You'll be fine....

But no the black RTV hain't the same....That Ultra-grey stuff from Drei-bond or Tri-Bond (the US branch) is the greatest thing and it works....Initially I encountered it on race motorcycles where the cases sometimes have no gasket, and the mating area is half that of car junk and worse, the stuff is WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY harder stressed and made of aluminum or magnesium....and it worked air tight..Had to..

With a little creativity you can build up missing segments of gaskets in a pinch...like i had to when blew a headgasket in my mighty V4 (which had ports way ported to hell and gasket matched) and had to change it out on the side of the road one midnight..Tore the gasket around one intake port...made sucessive layers, let then set up about 5 min per layer..reassembled..lasted another year.

I use it when I do not want leaks and consider the assembly more or less permanent...
 
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