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External wg, tial vs turbosmart vs whatever have you

Brimley I thought you crushed your car?

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+1... The spring is a pain in the rectum to change on the Tial wastegate if you don't have the right tools, which is my case...

It's really not too bad if you do it the right way. You don't need anything special. Just get a ratcheting bar clamp or something like it.

https://www.zoro.com/irwin-bar-clamp-18-cap-3-14-throat-depth-1964719/i/G5478481/

Then clamp the body, undo the screws, and slowly release the clamp. When you want to put a spring in, just line everything up, clamp it down, and replace the bolts in a star pattern.

I've done it without the clamp, and it was a huge pain like you said. I accidentally let it go after getting one bolt halfway in and the top flew off and put a 90 degree bend in the bolt.
 
It's really not too bad if you do it the right way. You don't need anything special. Just get a ratcheting bar clamp or something like it.

https://www.zoro.com/irwin-bar-clamp-18-cap-3-14-throat-depth-1964719/i/G5478481/

Then clamp the body, undo the screws, and slowly release the clamp. When you want to put a spring in, just line everything up, clamp it down, and replace the bolts in a star pattern.

I've done it without the clamp, and it was a huge pain like you said. I accidentally let it go after getting one bolt halfway in and the top flew off and put a 90 degree bend in the bolt.

Yep... That clamp or something similar is a must. I will buy one for sure. You have to be careful not to pinch the diaphragm when you reassemble the thing.
 
I've used only the best wastegates that money can buy, which are Chinise knock offs. Maybe it is luck or not but all have worked fine. Some wg's with v-bands have needed small adjusting to keep the clamps properly tight but that's all. No broken diaphragms or breakdowns otherwise.

Never seen the benefit of a "proper brand" wastegate or a dump so don't know any better. True racing use is a different thing.


Not directly related to the topic, but. 50mm old style HKS copy has seen the most and roughest use in 245. Some standing mile runs, 1/4 mile, street and track around 50tkm/31k miles with 2-3 coolant flushes from full throttle. Boost anything from 0.7-2.4bar/10-35psi and still in use. Only negative side is that all flanges have bolts.
 
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I've used only the best wastegates that money can buy, which are Chinise knock offs. Maybe it is luck or not but all have worked fine. Some wg's with v-bands have needed small adjusting to keep the clamps properly tight but that's all. No broken diaphragms or breakdowns otherwise.

Never seen the benefit of a "proper brand" wastegate or a dump so don't know any better. True racing use is a different thing.


Not directly related to the topic, but. 50mm old style HKS copy has seen the most and roughest use in 245. Some standing mile runs, 1/4 mile, street and track around 50tkm/31k miles with 2-3 coolant flushes from full throttle. Boost anything from 0.7-2.4bar/10-35psi and still in use. Only negative side is that all flanges have bolts.

For me I will not put at risk a $7000 motor build to save $100 on a wastegate! I might not have a gambling mind! :-P
 
$7000 is an expensive engine indeed. I think my complete 6-cyl whiteblock(accessories, injectors, etc.) and complete drivetrain behind it cost a little north of that. But it has been driven only with 700-800hp. :-P Couldn't build 1-2 cars a year if I wouldn't look for the most cost effective options.

A wastegate failure won't annihilate your engine if you have any idea what is happening while driving. Overboost protection in the ECU is a nice thing in any case.
 
I'm running a 44mm XS-power eBay gate, it came with 2 springs(8 and 12 psi), long ass dump pipe and extra flanges for like $150. Feels pretty solid and both springs opened like they should. Read about them on lstech before buying.
 
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