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$500 1988 740 Budget Build

I didn’t notice too much of a difference in my 13c vs 15g, but that’s probably because I didn’t run the 15g at very many boosts. But both turbos at 10psi felt the same to me, could also be because I got 2 or 3 bad 15Gs off the for sale section. People love selling blown turbos on this forum so be aware. I would just run the 13c that comes with the motor if it’s healthy.
 
Got most of everything disconnected under the hood. All that's left are the mounts, driveshaft and shift linkage. Hoping that some of the front end comes apart to help get it out if the bay.

Can anyone give me some guidance with this engine harness? Most all the plugs are disconnected, but it seems like one giant harness with no end. What gives?
 
Got most of everything disconnected under the hood. All that's left are the mounts, driveshaft and shift linkage. Hoping that some of the front end comes apart to help get it out if the bay.

Can anyone give me some guidance with this engine harness? Most all the plugs are disconnected, but it seems like one giant harness with no end. What gives?

If it's anything like the 240s, most of the harness is underneath the intake manifold. You'll need to disconnect all the sensors. On a 240, you have to remove the alternator wiring and route it behind the PS/AC bracket (kind of a PITA). But on a 7 I don't think you need to since the alt is up top.

Be sure to label everything. It should be a really straight forward swap. And FWIW, I personally have never had to remove the front clip to get a motor and trans out, but I've only ever pulled motor by itself, only after dropping the trans first. Removing the intercooler and radiator will give you a few extra inches.
 
It will be difficult to reach 300 on lh2.2 which is what I'm assuming your 88 has. You can ms or switch to lh2.4.

It can be done. After everything is said and done this spring with my 740 upgrades, I will be at or around 300whp.

- Chipped ECU
- Chipped EZK
- Turbocam
- Adjustable cam gear
- 3" turboback exhaust
- 19T
- Manual boost controller
- T5 trans
- Aluminum wheels
- Performance intercooler
 
It can be done. After everything is said and done this spring with my 740 upgrades, I will be at or around 300whp.

- Chipped ECU
- Chipped EZK
- Turbocam
- Adjustable cam gear
- 3" turboback exhaust
- 19T
- Manual boost controller
- T5 trans
- Aluminum wheels
- Performance intercooler

:lol: can't be done without those!
 
It can be done. After everything is said and done this spring with my 740 upgrades, I will be at or around 300whp.

- Chipped ECU
- Chipped EZK
- Turbocam
- Adjustable cam gear
- 3" turboback exhaust
- 19T
- Manual boost controller
- T5 trans
- Aluminum wheels
- Performance intercooler

Probably not, you'd be lucky to be in 250-260 range.
 
Ended up getting the motor out tonight. Easy, except the harness never dead ends. I had to pull the intake just to isolate the harness from the engine. Is anyone modifying their harness while outit's out, or removing un needed brackets? For such an simple engine layout, they surely made the harness overly complex.
 
I don’t think the harnesses are bad at all. Never had any issues. TPS, knock sensor, IAC, CTS, temp sender, MAF, CPS, alternator, O2 sensor, injector wires + grounds, other various grounds and I think that’s it. Biggest PITA in my experience was on a 240, had to remove the AC bracket and pull the alternator harness through. Well, not remove, but pull aside. 4 bracket bolts removed, zip tie the AC+PS to the fender well (again, 240 not 740), and the harness was easily pulled through.

Trust me there are much, much worse cars to work on. You’re probably used to working on LS based cars that only have a handful of wires and the entire harness easily disconnects under the bay.
 
Separated the trans from the engine tonight. Is there a write up on rinsing the rpm sensor for the 2.4 swap? Might as well do that while the trans is off.
 
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Anything in should do while I'm in there? Kick down cable or anything? Nothing looked abnormal. I'll just hose out the screen and put a new pan gasket on.
 
If the kick down cable is damaged in any way, replace it. It is a pita to do on the car(not difficult but messy). Replace input shaft seal, o ring for pump, o ring for bell housing. Use geunine Volvo parts for the o rings. About $25 at Volvo dealership and 2 trips or order online.
 
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Pulled the head off the old motor thinking I was going to be looking at a blown headgasket... well, it was blown haha. Impressive.
 
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