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No spark

So I bought this powerstage and with it installed I get no power to the coil. Old one gives power to the coil. So I'm pretty sure the old one is fine.
 
Power on what terminal on the coil? Terminal 15 is the switched power. You should always measure 12v there. With terminal 1 being switched by the powerstage. Terminal one voltage will vary with the circuit but it is a fast switched voltage which you can catch with the test light.

Maybe a good time to test with Art's hall sensor test setup? I think it's on cleanflametrap site. Send him a PM about it. I still stick with no triggering means the hall sensor or box if the wiring is verified. If you still aren't seeing swtiching on the input to the power stage then you know the triggering and spark control are suspect.
 
Well a varying voltage like that is probably triggering. But the test light is more accurate for that test. If you see triggering on terminal 1. Then the secondary part of the sytem probably has the issue. The coil output, coil wire, distributor cap, rotor are all in the secondary part of the system. Measure the coil secondary resistance, too.
 
I measured resistances of both coils I have, my spare coil turned out to be completely boned and the one in the car is a bit out of spec. I got about 10kohms on the secondary.
 

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Measure the coil wire and make sure the button in the distributor cap is good. Also the resistance of the rotor being too high will kill the spark. Volvo spark cable spec is 500 ohms per foot.
 
Measure the coil wire and make sure the button in the distributor cap is good. Also the resistance of the rotor being too high will kill the spark. Volvo spark cable spec is 500 ohms per foot.

Coil wire was close to 3kohms, replaced it with an old one a bit under 2kohms and checked for spark by putting the end of the cable about a quarter inch from the strut tower nut. Still nothin.
 
Hmm well I'm wondering if that triggering isn't happening? A test light on there would show proper current with the switching. That's why we like them a lot for circuit testing.
 
So between coil negative (red/white wire) and ground I get about 10kohms. Ignition on/off makes no difference but while cranking it moves around 12-14kohms. Does this sound right at all? With the "new" powerstage installed it's just an open circuit cranking or not. Wiggling the various wires and connections makes no difference.

EDIT: So in my first post I said 0ohms.. What the hell? EDIT: Pretty sure I got positive/negative mixed up in the first post.
 
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I'm completely lost and sick of wasting my money.

I've checked all the wiring. I replaced the EZK (Old one was actually broken, so you can imagine how annoying it is that replacing it didn't make it run) the distributor, the coil, and the powerstage. I feel like it has to be something simple and stupid that I'm missing, but I just can't find anything.
 
$5 on a test lamp and $5 on a noid light would go a long way.

I need to get one anyway, but what would that tell me? I already know that for some reason there's no pulse to the coil. I have two good coils, they get power, there's no spark if I put the wire a quarter inch from the strut tower nut.
 
Whats your wiring into the ecu look like? I found the instructions a little confusing when I did this a couple months ago, as a couple of the wires need to splice together before splicing into the ecu wiring. Like a 2 into one. I basically played around with the ones I was confused on until it worked. I can take pictures/give better info later tonight. But as I recall it would crank but not fire until I had the right combination.
 
Ok, so a bit of background info just as a refresher. Car ran great and then a Toyota smashed it. Got it back a couple months later and it would crank but no ignition. The battery tray squashed the powerstage harness against the strut tower so I figured great, that's the only problem. Ripped the engine out and there wasn't much actual damage to the wiring, just to the insulation. Patched it up and threw the engine into my 244. It's wired the same way as it was in my 245. (I've since verified the powerstage wiring (As well as all the other ignition related wires) and it all seems fine to me.) Still no ignition. EZK box wasn't giving power to the hall sensor. Replaced that, hall sensor is getting power as it should be, and still no ignition. I figured the hall sensor must've gone kaput so I replaced that and nothing.

Coil is getting +12v fine. There's a load of resistance between the coil negative and ground and I dunno if it's supposed to be that way or not. With a new cheapo powerstage there's just no connection to ground at all.

I'd really appreciate it if someone with an LH2.2 EZK car could go disconnect the coil negative and test resistance between that and ground with ignition off and on.
 
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