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Olga the Second Revised

If this isn't going to be a rally car, rather a performance daily driver, I have to concentrate on the things that would otherwise turn shifting into a tedious chore. Bottom line, I want a final drive ratio that doesn't inconveniently leave me in the middle of two gears at speed limits, the most important being 50 and 130 km/h.

Using the values above and this website http://www.apexgarage.com/tech/gear_ratios.shtml I came up with the following shifting and cruising points:

Shifting speeds @3000 RPMs with FINAL DRIVE RATIO: 4,10:1

1st to 2nd2nd to 3rd3rd to 4th4th to 5th5th (or top)At 60mph
M-4632mph, 52km/h56mph, 90km/h88mph, 141km/h120mph, 194km/h152mph, 245km/h2676 rpm
M-9034mph, 55km/h59mph, 95km/h87mph, 140km/h120mph, 194km/h149mph, 239km/h2744 rpm

Shifting speeds @3000 RPMs with FINAL DRIVE RATIO: 3,54:1

1st to 2nd2nd to 3rd3rd to 4th4th to 5th5th (or top)At 60mph
M-4638mph, 61km/h65mph, 104km/h102mph, 164km/h139mph, 224km/h177mph, 284km/h2311 rpm
M-9039mph, 63km/h68mph, 110km/h101mph, 163km/h139mph, 224km/h172mph, 277km/h2369 rpm
 
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Quo Vadis 3.54 with M90?

In a 30 km/h zone I'd drive in 2nd with the 3.54, 3rd with the 4.10 (meaning an extra shift into a low cruising rpm, and likely a shift down into second to accelerate out...).
Economy seems best with the 3.54 @ 50 km/h, and I can hold 2nd gear to around 3k rpms and shift directly into 4th, skipping 3rd completely.
Obviously 500 rpms more on the highway doesn't make the 4.10 advantageous, especially for roadtrips...
Sure the 4.10 gives you more torque to the wheels, but it makes 1st gear useless and if I can hold onto second a bit longer I'll be shifting a lot less.

Conclusion, no buyers regret!
 
I think the 4.10 would be annoying in the long run, especially on highway speeds 80-100 km/h. I have been checking gear ratios myself, wondering if i should change my 3.73 ratio to 3.54 when converting from AW1 to M90. Came to the conclusion that the 3.73 would be quite perfect for the 2 liter engine i'm installing. 3.54 will be perfect for a 2.3 liter daily driver.

Looking foreward to more updates :)
 
Yeah, even in the states I remember the 4.10 being a bit too fidgety, but the acceleration was nice. Speed limits were mostly just 45 mph in town and then 75 mph on the highway, leaving the whole gearing just a question of how many more revs you got in 5th since the lower gears didn't matter much. You always shifted through all the gears inbetween stop lights. Now I'm trying to paying a bit more attention to both joy and ease of use in few more situations, not just full throttle through the gears.

Since I can't currently drive the car to see where the sweet spot for economy is, I'm just guessing for now. But how did you come to the conclusion for the 2.0 and 2.3 liter engines?

And do you still need a gemini tool? I posted the stl files for people to be able to find someone local, but if you haven't been able to I got a spare one laying around. Just doesn't look that pretty, lol.
 
I had the 2 liter engine installed in a 740 earlier (soon to be installed in the current 740), and I felt I needed higher revs to keep the engine from struggling with the 3.54. The 2 liter is a T5 engine, so that might also play a factor in the need for higher revs. The speed limits here are mostly 70-80 km/h on highways, and the 5th gear was not very usefull, had to change down to 4th alot.

I was thinking about changing the rear axle to a 3.54 I have lying around, so I was also guessing, and checking ratio calculators :) will keep the 3.73 for now, if I'm not satisfied I will change it later.

Yes, I'm interested in the gemini tool! pretty doesn't matter :) I'll send you a PM, and we can take it there
 
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Feels good to get rid of trash, might even get 10€ for it all!

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Project corner stash, just missing a driveshaft for an M90!!!

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Round two with 40mm pistons. Hopefully if all goes well I'll get them in tomorrow, just waiting for the paint to dry...

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I have a project thread in a norwegian forum, but it's in locked for paying mebers part of the forum. might create a project thread later, but have to find a new picture host first. not paying 400$ a year for photobucket.

I'll give you a picture to show you it did happen :rofl:
2.0 T5 engine, Nira i7x ems, 630cc injectors, BW EFR 6258
 
Today I got the brakes in, handbrake adjusted and oil with filter changed. No metal flakes in the oil, so that's a good sign!

Went and took a look at a new garage to rent in town and signed the contract to start in september. Finally a place where I can work on inside and not have to leave everything up to weather conditions! Also got enough room for a car lift and a painting booth. Soo excited!!!!
 
Thanks! No injuries except for my pride :)

Congratulations on the garage! that makes a project much easier. keep the updates comming!
 
So, was able to get away this afternoon to finalize some interior stuff. Now I haz radio!

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Floormats are in the mail, but otherwise everything is complete and ready to go.

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I will have to rent a carpet cleaner at some point and go to town on the interior, but for now everything being complete is more than enough to make me happy.

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Just waiting on that last piece of paper to get it registered...
 
So, update!

1. Got the papers from Volvo
2. Got MOT papers
3. Need papers from the DOT cause I don't have the cool motors that adjust the beam length of the headlights... :pow:

The bureaucracy of it all is the world's 9th wonder... but whatevs, just another week to wait on papers...

But I got some bling in the mail!

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Original Volvo door handle shells! Looks much better than the three broken ones with glue on glue to try and save em... Now I really need to get to deep cleaning the interior!
 
So last week the nice chap at the DOT said I'd have the papers in time to register the car this week. Called yesterday to see what's going on and he hadn't even gotten to reading my request... empty promises are the bureaucrat's bread and butter.
 
Well, as long as I got time to kill, might as well share my 3D printer project thread. When I'm done with it I can start printing fog light mounts, gemini center caps and other fun stuff that'll get more interesting as the project progresses.

Idle minds can't stay idle long...
 
Got the last piece of paper in the mail today. Going to get it registered first thing monday morning!

*small celebration dance*
 
UPDATES!!!!!

Got the car on the road, drove it for a few days then parked it :oops: She'll get up and go all right, but starting without giving it gas and idle is a problem. Runs pig rich for a few seconds and then hunts between 500 and 1100 rpms. Checked all the connections and resistances with a voltmeter, everything is ok. Seems the 010 MAF just won't play well with the chipped 984 ECU, neither will 016 guts in a 3" MAF housing :-P MadDog, you were right! Soooo, 012 MAF bought off the classifieds, could be here tomorrow if I'm lucky.

In the meantime, got the DXFs ready for the 3D printer and moved in to my new garage over the weekend. Suck part is, the previous owner was a hoarder of mostly broken VW parts, so I'm hauling off his crap by the carload. Gonna be nice though, storage space upstairs, room for a car lift downstairs!

Also looks like the gasket material between the cam carrier and the cylinder head didn't take, got some oil seeping out from below the ignition cap...
 
I ****in told ya so!! :nod: :-P But glad it was the problem.. im facing some really weird errors sometimes which i cant make clear to the B234FT Swap or the programming.. like a 5-4-3 and a 4-4-3.. but it makes no sense... always comes up when i slam the pedal hard.. but never came up since i have installed a smaller turbo.. i dont know..
 
I only hope you're right! Will see once the new unit is swapped in if you're really right :-P

As for your codes, what where how did you get that to happen?
 
So, re-applied the sealant between the cam carrier, will have to see if my oil leak disapears...

As far as the hotstart problem--> 012 MAF doesn't help at all...

Changed the CTS with a new unit... nothing
Changed the IAC with a new unit... nothing
Found a small air leak in the piping to the turbo intake... idle no longer surges above 750 rpms, just only down to 500 and back up...
Deleted the high pressure fuel pump and replaced the in-tank unit with a Deatschwerks DW200... nothing --> but I do like the pump! Soooo quiet and still flows 250lph@43psi
Swapped Chips, EZKs and ECUs like a madman... nothing
Contacted Peter from the former Hi-Tuning shop... he suggested swapping out the EZK chips with stock ones or the CPS with a new unit...

Guess there's not a whole lot more to do, going to replace the CPS with the one from my DD and hope it fixes the problem. Otherwise I'm down to... nothing. Car still runs like crap for the first 10-20 seconds after a hot start and sometimes smells like it's running pig rich. Sometimes it throws the 1-3-2 code, which means low charging voltage?!?! Might just be due to the low idle at ~500rpms, might swap in a spare alternator just for kicks... Changed the oil and it smelled like fuel, so it's definitely dumping a lot into the cylinders after startup. After it starts and figures out the idle it runs like a champ, so I'm stumped at the moment. Gotta be something stupid, like a corroded connection or whatever, but I've gone through practically everything, just can't think of what else to check!!!

Probably going to just start over and go through the process again in the hopes of finding something I missed... Hope I don't come up with... nothing...

EDIT: Fuel pump install and wiring pics

I upgraded the stock wiring from the pump to the chassis harness connector since the original in-tank pump only draws like 3A and had itsy bitsy teeny weeny wires. At the harness there's a good size wire leading to the connector, looks like the same AWG as was provided with the pump.

The black and white wires I robbed from another connector I had laying around to replace the puny pink and black leads.

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