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It'll buff out? 242

Be sure to buy a spotweld cutter and a body saw.

Your piece of mind will thank you.

Cut the extraneous pieces off the replacement to get an idea of where the spotwelds are and how it goes together. You can then remove the quarter off the car much more easily.

Spot weld cutter is on my list. Body saw, air saw? https://www.amazon.com/s?k=air+saw&...825860&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_6cpi2w5dct_e
also on my list.
Just bought a cordless sawzall for the PnP car (RIP) it'll still come in handy. Used a plug in sawzall in Eugene as well as one of my HF death wheel. So nasty sounding compared to my "stay at home" DeWalt.

I figured the same, take apart the "new" pieces and use each in part or whole when reconstructing the car.

According to one of my favorite books "Keys to metal bumping" the old one is fixable.
According to my logic and how I have limited experience its nice to have the extra piece.
Either way I'm not scared. I probably should be. :nod:
 
I have this spot-weld cutter kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XML5H...92cf-abd2e903500f&ie=UTF8&qid=1538089525&sr=1



It works really well. The center piece is spring loaded and collapses under pressure so that you have one solid plug when complete. Each bit lasts for a few dozen spot welds.


Body saw = air saw. The body saws use a short little blade so you can get into the crevasses easily. I use mine a lot for a wide variety of jobs. I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Ra...pID=31XY9DJDMZL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


Works well. Makes cutting panels out much easier as you don't have to maneuver a big saw with a big blade. Think jig saw for body work.


For exposed body work, I typically butt weld (via the many-tiny-welds method) and then -grind the weld down. For floor pans and such or some patches where I can't access the back, I will flange the edge of the panel and lay the patch in. I use a punch/flange https://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Ra...pID=31XY9DJDMZL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
although i have the cheaper HF model that works well enough.


Be sure to use weld through primer (I like the copper stuff). I also then coat the back side of most panels with Eastwood's internal frame coating or their rust encapsulator depending upon accessibility.


Have fun and be patient. It'll take a lot of setup to get it just right and look nice.
 
That's a big hunk of metal! What's with all of the license plates?

I have a collection of collections. :roll: Want a plate? Mostly Wa. some Ca. Or. Id.
I'll post a pic of my shed. (leave you hanging)

I would massage the damaged panel back into shape as good as possible. Then if necessary cut out the lest amount of panel to make a good repair. A flange tool is handy for tight overlap weld.

I'm thinking you are correct. I'm just not sure about butt vs. lap. I have always butted my patch panels, not that I've done a whole bunch. I suppose the room for error increases when you do a whole panel vs. the little patch panels I have done.
 
I have a collection of collections. :roll: Want a plate? Mostly Wa. some Ca. Or. Id.
I'll post a pic of my shed. (leave you hanging)



I'm thinking you are correct. I'm just not sure about butt vs. lap. I have always butted my patch panels, not that I've done a whole bunch. I suppose the room for error increases when you do a whole panel vs. the little patch panels I have done.

:nod:

The whole thing at the 'B' pillar corner.
 
Think jig saw for body work.

Have fun and be patient. It'll take a lot of setup to get it just right and look nice.

Good info! Thanks.
When removing
I brought my jig saw, just in case.
Patience can be a problem with me. I will try. LOL
 
I think butt welding is good for small sections. But if you're doing a long section you'll have stronger repair and less chance of a wavy panel. The small repair sections I did to my coupe were butt welded. Panel clamps will come in handy if you're going for the whole panel.
p19016_1.jpg
 
I think butt welding is good for small sections. But if you're doing a long section you'll have stronger repair and less chance of a wavy panel. The small repair sections I did to my coupe were butt welded. Panel clamps will come in handy if you're going for the whole panel.
p19016_1.jpg

Have some! :)
 
Been searching but not finding any threads on 240 1/4 replacement. Be nice to see some pics on how others have done it and what they ran into.

Plenty of non Volvo Youtube videos.
 
Unless you take very good measurements and are a good welder I would not mess with the door jam area. If you're off by a little your gaps will be off, the door won't close properly, etc. If you do go that far cut the 1/4 about an inch back leaving the jam/ striker area. Me , I would pull it and of anything just replace a section from the rear.
 
Inside the door jamb? As to not risk getting a wavy 1/4 by sectioning?
Are you suggesting a cut line or free both pieces from spot welds?
Curious and open minded to repair ideas

More that a mid panel butt splice in a unibody will work and show a line in the finish eventually unless 'stepped' or backed with a stitch welded strip both of which create a cavity where rust can form.

So yea best is a full panel swap all the way back to the factory spot welds if at all possible.

At least that's what the pros at the collision shop tell me.

:e-shrug:
 
Drilling and/or grinding spot welds is fun. I wish it would never end. :-P
 

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Looks like fun, :grrr:
It is! More fun, I am certain that r&r the whole thing is out. Too much work. Plus the replacement part is rusty. Some patching my patch? LOL.
Thinking about cutting at the tape, partly to cut off rusty bits and partly because I want it smaller and separating the rear panel from the quarter looks to be a real pain.
 

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I have a friend who runs a Metal Shaping website that has offered to pull the 1/4 and make it an event for his website (local Seattle area) but its such late notice I will be surprised if many show up. Never heard of a Dozer before this week and turns out 2 friends own them.
http://www.blackhawkbmt.com/Products/Mobile-Straightening-System/Dozer.
My hope is I wont have to use any of the 1/4 I bought but I am glad I have it (for now)
This coming Saturday if anybody wants to come see. (PM me) I'll post pics of how it goes.
 
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