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Old 02-14-2016, 12:01 PM   #1
WAGONRACER
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Default Step by step , Bang for buck Redblock tuning .

STEP BY STEP VOLVO 940 TURBO SCRAPYARD/BUDGET REDBLOCK TUNING FOR DAILY DRIVING AND GENERAL FUN.
by J Watts Performance
UK CONTRIBUTOR:

FOREWORD...

Firstly I think it's fair to say that ultimately there is no substitute for decent quality expensive parts, the newest available turbo will be better than 20 year old technology and will very likely make more power for a broader spread of rpm , without changing anything, but for example the injectors and has been proven to work but the single item cost for me is prohibitively expensive and the fear of cost of damage such items reduces the fun so... this guide is by no means definitive BUT it's things I've found to work well together repeatedly and most importantly cheaply and are readily available, deviate by all means but I've done it like this enough times to know that it works, except when there are pre-existing mechanical problems, every time.

So this is my guide it's based around the standard lh2.4 injection system using as many original bolt on parts as possible mostly from other Volvo models adapted to fit, it's intended you'll do the work yourself as a amateur or even learning mechanic so apart from if you need the head skimming or you can't weld, a large pair or circlip pillars and an angle grinder are the only specialist tools you'll need.

As I've said I don't like spending money and I don't like doing a job twice or standing on the side of the road with a broken car so it includes the maintenance of parts that for me have gone wrong, BEFORE they go wrong hopefully saving you money in the future. It is expected you understand some things and exercise common sense on others, also I’ve assumed that you will do each step in turn:

• I’ve put a cone filter on stage 0 not because it works better at this point than a airbox but because later on you'll need to change the intake pipe as it gets sucked flat at higher boost and this won't fit the standard air box or the 3" maf, I've added some more comments on this lower down.

• I’ve also tried to include general maintenance at the steps where this maintenance is going to be easiest done i.e. I’ve put to change the head gasket while the inlet and exhaust are removed, why do it twice especially as 90% of the cars I've owned and built have done the head gasket as soon as a bigger turbo has been fitted. There is also less chance of warpage to the head meaning if it needs skimming it needs less off it.

• I've listed water pump at this step as it's hard to seal against the head without the head removed, do you have a recent receipt for its service & If you do has it been done properly ?

• I've recommended colder plugs earlier than needed because I've assumed you’re going to go further, I normally service the car just before doing the first stage of tuning.

• I've put them in stages simply so it's easier to budget and so that you get the most for your money each time. I've also found stages as this the most enjoyable way to do it.

• A wideband AFR gauge is always a good and a recommended buy however up to stage 4 as long as you use premium fuel I've found everything to be fine.


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What car should I use ?

If you want an easy life 1991 onwards 940/740/240 all use the lh2.4 injection which this guide is based around, and have stronger rods in the engine. The 740/940 can be treated as the same car at this point but early 1991 model year cars both 740 & 940 may not have abs and as such will be a earlier 740 underneath, non turbo cars can simply have the ECUs swapped in, a resistor pack for injectors fitted and a turbo engine fitted along with longer airflow meter wiring .

1991-1992 cars by English law do not have to have a catalytic converter fitted.

1991 -1994 will have the m46 gearbox, this has a overdrive button on top of the gear-lever anything over 250hp and it will likely need swapping to a m90 available after 94, you will also need the gearbox mount and the front half of the prop, you can fit the diesel clutch to the original m46 'birdbath/dogdish' flywheel, but really it isn’t worth the money and I'd change the clutch and fly to the one mentioned later in this guide at that point.

2.0l can have the 2.3 swapped in along with appropriate ECUs, it's also worth noting that non ac and ac ECUs are best treated as non interchangeable as it also controls the engine fan & idle control + it will likely run the ac all the time.

1994 onward cars will be fitted with m90 gearboxes and oil piston squirters to cool the base of the piston. 1997 on have the revised stronger m90l2.

Automatic cars can be fitted with all the relevant manual stuff, as well as gearbox you'll need the clutch pedal, clutch & flywheel, spigot bearing, master cylinders, pipework, slave cylinder, front half of the prop and the gearbox mount the brake pedal can be easily trimmed down and the standard rubber slipped over and finally the blue & pink wires wiring together to disengage the park switch but all the holes are there and everything can be bolted in in a day, to be honest it isn’t much different from converting an early m46 to m90.

I've had cars with 90,000 miles worse condition than cars with over 300,000 miles & cars with 200,000 miles with a service history in a folder in protective sleeves in date order THAT DROVE LIKE A NEW CAR !!...Basically a good complete, Volvo or specialist history with all the tools in the toolkit including a clean pair of white cotton gloves along with 4x matching Pirelli tyres and I always know I'm looking at a mint car regardless of mileage.

The easy option is a 98 model, the cool option is buy a 1991 non abs 740 and swap all the parts including engine, gearbox, suspension, brakes, and servo from a 1998 in, it's worthy of note that the back seats won't fit without modification on estate or saloon on 740 and estate pre 94.

************************************************** ****************************


Stage 0:

Service & clean everything don't skimp this as it is the foundation for your build so build good foundations.

At a minimum, plugs bpr7es ( one range colder, bpr6es standard ), leads, oil, cone filter, oil filter, dizzy cap & arm, replace all vacuum lines with silicon, new aux belts, flush coolant, replace fuel filter.

Also worth doing brakes, bushes, droplinks etc, if you’re going to build a fast car AT LEAST have parts working to original standards and keep to 10,000 mile service intervals at least, replace as much as you can afford, things like ECU temp sensors are relatively cheap but can leave the car not starting or over-fuelling massively, cleaning the engine bay will help you find problems later.

Stage 1:

Over 200bhp

Above plus: boost controller @ 14 psi, V cam / vx3 or similar (*see notes on cams ) decat, free-flowing backbox 3" intake
Volvo quote a manual turbo plus car (12psi overboost ) at 196bhp

Service: rocker cover gasket, front & rear cam seals, cambelt.

Option of: 3" exhaust system (*see notes on exhaust )

Stage 2:

250-275bhp

above plus optional mods +

Ttv flywheel and 850R clutch( I've tried various other cheap clutch setups and this, although one of the most expensive parts, gives a lot for the money, the standard 850r clutch makes it perfect for daily driving and the lightweight flywheel really allows the redblock to rev ) 15g /16t/18t /19t ( all excellent value for money and available in good condition second hand *see notes ) with ported exhaust manifold collector, 440cc injectors, adjustable pressure regulator, 3" maf ( mk1 960 part ends 012 or make your own * see notes ) chips & chipable boxes ( try to keep fuel ECU as new as possible 984/983)
I'd also change to a Cosworth -31 actuator while changing the turbo.

Service: new inlet & exhaust manifold gaskets, new turbo drain oil o ring new head gasket (elring) new waterpump and seal ) recommend braided turbo oil feed line.

At this stage 0.63 t3 or similar turbo but it really depends on your budget, this is intended as a 'on the cheap' guide so I've not really mentioned them although the t3 variation turbos are a great option almost same fitment more power, less stress, less heat, better flow, finding cheap ones can be hard as they almost always come with a Cosworth price tag.

* I'd Always fit injectors & maf to raise fuel cut rather than just chipping, I never chip first then raise boost on the standard injectors and maf, you will have no protection from running the injectors flat out, fuelcut is useful .

Stage 3:

300 bhp crank

Above including recommended plus:

Big intercooler, air con water radiator or Ali rad, 18t /19t turbo, K cam or kg trimming etc Walbro/ Bosch fuel pump, oil catch tank & vacuum pipe one way valve essential ( use a diesel non return valve in pcv vacuum line so it can suck but not blow ), oil cooler and filter relocate recommended as it makes accessing turbo return much easier. 20+ psi

Here is everything I can think of that dynoed 306 bhp and 334lbft at the crank:

Internally stock B230FT high pressure turbo engine later model 'air con ' water radiator conversion and electric fan, homemade stainless 'long' 3" airflow meter, tdo4hl-18t turbocharger from v70 awd R,-31 Cosworth actuator adapted to fit, slotted Volvo K cam alloy vernier pulley advanced 3 deg, later round tooth belt conversion, heat reflective wrapped solid boost pipes, 3" solid intake, stainless cone filter with cold air feed, Mikalor clamps , bp7es plugs gapped @ 0.28 thou, 3" thick eBay alloy intercooler, 440cc 'light blue ' Cosworth injectors, oil catch tank, HDI Electronic boost controller set @ 27 psi, socketed gold ezk ignition ECU with 7000rpm ignition chip, unimobilised 984 fuel ECU and 7000rpm chip, hand ported exhaust manifold, TTV racing billet 5.5kg flywheel, 850R clutch, later m90 gearbox conversion, 3 inch titanium heat wrapped stainless downpipe, decat, leading into full 3" stainless exhaust with free flow silencer .




So What 'bolt on' parts after that ?

Stage 4:

Above including recommended plus

Plenum style inlet manifold with larger throttle body and tubular exhaust manifold , ported 531 head big valves etc concentrate on exhaust side flow, vented rocker cover for oil breather, if you’re keeping the tdo4 maybe 18/19t billet wheel 3" exhaust housing and wasted spark or consider aftermarket management rather than wasted spark etc, if you plan to tune more.

And after that?

The limits of standard parts is a well disputed thing, but it certainly is less about bolt on parts stock blocks / manifolds have dynoed over 700 hp but at this point cheap parts start to go out of the window, Your shopping list is likely to contain rods and pistons, aftermarket engine management, manifolds, wherever the latest turbo tech has taken us and a gearbox, brakes, suspension and everything else to take that kind of power.

************************************************** ****************************

AIRBOX:

• a stripped airbox with a new OEM filter or better a free flowing panel filter is great if you’re planning to stay at stage zero/one especially in a hot climate.

• a 3" intake is hard to fit to it and leaves the airbox as a bottleneck.

• I've put cone filter on stage 0 as it saves you wasting money on a standard paper filter you may chuck away later.

• A 3" solid intake and cone filter sounds great and will save you wasting money on silly aftermarket dump valve that will make the standard computer confused.

•I t eliminates 2 90 degree bends and replaces another 90 degree bend with a 45, it just keeps it simple the 45 degree bend positions the filter right near the standard cold air intake behind the headlight.

************************************************** ****************************

OEM CAM CHOICES :

For the purpose of this guide anything other than a T BUT...

It's worth saying that the bigger the turbo the more the OEM cams inefficiency in a turbo engine becomes apparent, this is designed as a scrapyard guide and a purpose designed performance cam is ALWAYS going to be better, if you can get one cheap buy it.
The combination of a small turbo and a cam makes a very fun, quick spooling car with power to around the redline.
Lastly I've said about changing the cam early on and again from a V to a K this issn't strictly necessary but is a easy and relatively cheep way of extracting that bit more power you may be after .

A is still pretty weak but better than T and designed as a turbo cam if you’re building a quick spooling low end torque biased it's what you want. ( 740/760 turbo ),
H / K ( 240 glt) is peaky with long legs but lumpy and annoying in slow traffic with a light flywheel not so good for an auto unless you thrash it , hard to find & needs modifying for the cam mounted distributor or 'slotting ' at the rear. H has slightly more lift and longer exhaust duration than K .
V (na 940/740) has nearly as much lift as K with less duration than both at the same lsa so less overlap and equal inlet and exhaust duration works very well in a standard car with a boost increase and completely changes the way the car drives.
A vx3 (b230fb((also has 531))is a really nice cam but harder to source pulls like a K at high rpm with better low down torque than a V.

************************************************** ****************************

Chassis modification ( the cheap way ):

Early SE and Wentworth models always have an eaton g80 locking diff, later 2.3 high pressure turbo and sports editions also have lockers, these can be modified to lock up at higher speeds, turbo diesel will likely have a lower final drive for faster acceleration, you'll need the crown wheel and pinion.

It's also worth checking these models for a front chassis under brace, this sharpens up the handling no end, this can then be triangulated to the front subframe with 3 small lengths of tube, holes to mount it in the subframe are already there.

The front top mounts can be modified to give more camber by simply undoing the front bolt, hitting the stud out then pushing the top of the strut over until The inner part is hard up against the body then redrilling the hole and putting the stud back in.

Turbo Saloon models are fitted with a thicker rear anti roll bar and estates a thinner one, these can be doubled up with 4 simple plate with 2 holes in each either as two saloons or an estate and saloon to give 5 different variations, tune to your taste.
Estates have stiffer standard rear springs as well.
Adjustable front drop links can easily made by welding a rose joint of the correct size to the standard upper.

Random:

Cars with air con have a bigger standard radiator and intercooler you'll need the top hose and intercooler pipework too, they also have electric fans.

There is a row of lives and earths under the fuse box with spade connectors.

Clothes washing powder diluted in water and a spray bottle works extremely well at cleaning the engine bay just make sure to wash it off thoroughly afterwards and then spray with wd40 or similar as washing powder has a high salt content.

Porting the exhaust manifold at the turbo flange can make the car spool a lot quicker this can be done easily by using a angle grinder with no guard with a worn out small diameter grinding disc.

I make the exhaust flexi out of a normal exhaust joint with two stainless boot latch springs (eBay search) holding it together creates an airtight seal and allows movement and is better flowing than the normal type of flexi.

Exhaust and inlet threads are simple m8, replace them with stainless steel studs and it makes taking stuff apart easy every time.

When removing manifold or turbo I always split the turbo at the vband 10mm bolt, separating the chra and compressor housing from the exhaust housing, this makes accessing the downpipe, turbo & manifold bolts much quicker.

I always V band the downpipe flange as it makes taking everything apart easier, this coupled with the above technique and braided oil and water lines makes removing the turbo, downpipe, and exhaust manifold a 30 min job.

************************************************** ****************************

MITSUBISHI TD04 TURBOS:
Pros: cheap, readily available, often in good condition for age, quick spool easy to fit.
Cons: small, restrictive, old technology.
Alternatives: T3 variations which bolt on with the lip machines off the standard manifold, the bolt spacing is the same.

The Mitsubishi tdo4 range of turbos is used on various different Volvos over the years, the standard fitment to almost all 940's was the td04 13c.

Volvo 850 t5's used the td04 15g and earlier ones with a exhaust flange that bolts up to a 940 downpipe, it is a very small outlet and not recommended for a car that is more than lightly tuned.

T5R's and auto V70Rr's use the td04 16t with a larger flat flange outlet and manual V70R's the td04 18t or 19t depending on year matching exhaust flanges are getting hard to find, I'd weld a v band onto it.

The latter is available with a 3" outlet exhaust housing as are late td04 16t for s60 and v70 p2 t5's...this 3" housing is a lot larger and a lot better flowing than any of the other housings, however it requires some slight modification to the exhaust manifold in order to allow a stud to go through and a nut put behind, again I'd convert this to a v band for ease of fitting.

Both the flat flange and angled flange will need a flexi or slip joint putting into the exhaust as the standard conical flange allows movement.


Fitting:
The housings of the turbos will need rotating in order to fit in the stock 940 orientation inlet side. (You will need, large circlip pliers, 10 MM socket & ratchet, rubber mallet, wire cutters, 4x m8 nuts, a 9mm drill bit & drill, new genuine bottom oil o ring. )

• Firstly clean the turbo, you don't want any dirt inside it. Bung the oil and water connections and the inlet and outlet so you don't wash dirt inside.
• With a large pair or circlip pliers take the circlip out in the back of the compressor housing and gently tap the housing off with a rubber mallet or similar.
• Remove the small locating pin with a pair of wire cutters.
• Reassemble.

Exhaust side...
• Remove the 10mm bolt and clamp.
• Tap off exhaust housing.
• Remove pin.
• Take out the two exhaust studs that are in the manifold flange by locking two m8 nuts against each other.
• Drill out the thread so the bolt you removed passes through unobstructed.
• Thoroughly clean the exhaust housing and reassemble.

You'll need to make a actuator bracket, a old aircon bracket with the actuator welded to it makes a nice neat job and it helps if you buy a braided oil supply line it makes it so much easier to fit the turbo, I always separate the exhaust housing when fitting turbos, bolt it on and then fit the CHRA and compressor housing and oil drain to that.

************************************************** ****************************

For a basic stage 1 car a simple decat and backbox change or even standard exhaust will suffice, a stage 2 car really only needs a 2.75" exhaust and you only really need a 3" over 300hp I think most people will just go straight to 3" rather than making exhaust twice.

Making an exhaust:

You'll need in this order front to back in whatever size you chose :
• A turbo exhaust flange or v band
• (If using 3" and standard flange a 2.5-3" reducer )
• 2x90 bends.
• 2.5 meters of straight pipe.
• 2x45.
• An over axle bend.
• A silencer.
• A exhaust tip .
• 2x stainless boot springs. (See above )
• 2x v band clamps.
• Something to make hangers out of 1/4" bar etc.
• Pipe joiners x2 .
• Downpipe:

Attach the flange to the turbo and tack the reducer on a small straight then another straight 90 then a straight with a joiner on the end with your boot springs either side, this is in place of a flexi.

Main exhaust:
Long straight, 45 then another 45 to kick it up the step in the floor, over axle, v band, small straight silencer.

************************************************** ****************************

( this is free material for anyone to use but any use of this material for personal gain both by private and business is prohibited)

MAKING A 3" MAF :
The standard 3" maf part number ending 012 from 960 are getting hard to find as they are only fitted to the mk1 960, the mk2 does not fit.


You'll need...
soldering iron, a small Philips screw driver, a standard airflow meter part number ending 016, a length of 3" pipe roughly 10 inches long it can be stainless , aluminium or plastic even , high strength body mastic eg tiger seal , a steel rule or micrometer , heat paste/ thermal grease , chemical metal, masking tape , a large cable tie , a weight eg Brick .

* Remove the cover on the top of the airflow meter, you’ll have to cut the silicon off, brake a small piece off the side to get under the lid & prise it up .

* Remove the two gold screws .

* cut off the very top of the 6 connectors, the little square bits , they are only like this because they are made in a machine .

* Take the top of the element off the bottom .

* Undo all the 7 screws out of the bottom half .

* Take the bottom out of the pipe, you’ll have to prise it up again .

You will now have all the parts you need to reassemble into a 3” pipe .

* Cut a hole 80mm x 50mm in the pipe .

* Mount the element in the exact centre of the pipe using the steel rule, if you’ve cut the hole right it should drop straight in the right position .

* seal the 7 screw holes with the chemical metal from the outside & Use the heat paste between the upper and lower halves .
* Solder the 6 terminals up .

* Glue the two halves together with silicon sealant / body sealant and put the two gold screws in .

* use the body sealant along the long sides of the element but not the short sides and secure it in , once in fill the triangles at all four corners .
* make a neat square all the way round the element on the outside of the pipe with the masking tape then apply the sealant all the way round the edge of the element and secure it with a large tie wrap.
* stand a weight on top and allow to dry for 10 minutes , carefully remove the masking tape and allow to to dry for a further 24hrs with the weight on top .

************************************************** ****************************

INJECTORS:

These are the stock injectors that are found in later whiteblock cars they drop straight into the standard fuel rail but you do have to bypass the injector ballast found on the inner wing above the battery, all you have to do is twist the 4 green and one blue wire together and crimp them .


Stock 850 Turbo (orange) - 315cc/min
Stock S/V70 1998 (white) - 350cc/min
Stock S/V70 1999 (blue) - 395cc/min ( higher fuel pressure than white)
Stock V70R 2000, 2004 and S60 (green) - 468cc/min

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Last edited by WAGONRACER; 04-09-2018 at 05:24 AM.. Reason: Updated (10) more details on making 3” maf .
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Old 02-15-2016, 11:45 AM   #2
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I'd go to a T3/T4 at stage 2. T04E 50 trim in a 70ar housing with anti-surge protection. .63 on the hotside or .48AR Stg 5 depending on the characteristics you are after / manual or auto transmission.

I've seen very similar setups for 600 to 700 bucks.
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Old 02-15-2016, 11:49 AM   #3
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And just for some blastphemy, M cam with a 15g! Ultimate torque, roll on, hooligan setup. Franken-snail that 'ish and use a 13c hotside for even moar low-end grunt.
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Old 02-15-2016, 11:52 AM   #4
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Quite arbitrary list of mods.
Very wrong that a cam is needed for anything under 275. As a "Stage 1 mod" suggesting a cam is need is flat silly.

And there are better flywheels than TTV. The better ones gives a choice of good pressure plate options
Available in USA, or via post..
And cost significantly less.
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Old 02-15-2016, 11:53 AM   #5
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Over here a 15g turbo is around £100 , an 18t maybe £200 , im proposing a 300hp car for £1500 as cheep as practically posible , a t3/4 turbo would be a wise investment if you've that money to spend .
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Old 02-15-2016, 11:57 AM   #6
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The T cam gives a very short powerband it's rubbish in a manual , the V gives it a powerband of a more sporting turbo car , simply makes it more rewarding to drive .
The standard flywheel in m90 cars is duel mass so needs to be got rid of , the ttv kit gives a 5.5kg flywheel that takes a factory volvo clutch setup capable of holding 350lbft both the clutch and flywheel are available off the shelf .

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Old 02-15-2016, 12:34 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WAGONRACER View Post
Over here a 15g turbo is around £100 , an 18t maybe £200..
Have to admit that is pretty cheap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WAGONRACER View Post
The T cam gives a very short powerband it's rubbish in a manual
In other words, you are proposing this list for narrow group of users? Those that will run a manual?

Hard and fast declarations don't take into account how the guy or gal is going to drive the car. Big number cars with peaky power bands aren't easy to drive. If your audience is one that doesn't really have the money, they are probably younger and don't really have the skill either to match revs on downshifts as an example and generally (smoothly) keep the engine spinning in the meat of it's power.

A wide broad spread of power is going to mean the car is easier to drive fast.

I would love to see these staged build ups also focus on braking, suspension, and how to drive without killing someone. Youtube is full of vids showing bro's with more power than skill.
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Old 02-15-2016, 01:03 PM   #8
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Almost all UK turbos are manual , honda manage to sell plenty of cars with narrow power bands , especially to young kids .

This guide is predominantly focused towards manual cars , let's say making them a better rival towards something like a sierra cosworth , obviously suspension and brakes plays a massive part but this guide doesn't cover that .
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Old 02-15-2016, 01:09 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WAGONRACER View Post
The T cam gives a very short powerband it's rubbish in a manual , .
.

Bullsh1t.. A T cam with some microscopic OEM Misterbitchy turbo with some tiny outlet from the turbine housing has a short powerband..

But that is not the cam.

Try a T cam and a TB0384 Garrett..zings right on up to the fuel cut-off..
Single item change.
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Old 02-15-2016, 01:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WAGONRACER View Post
The standard flywheel in m90 cars is duel mass so needs to be got rid of , the ttv kit gives a 5.5kg flywheel that takes a factory volvo clutch setup capable of holding 350lbft both the clutch and flywheel are available off the shelf .
Costs or items?

All this stuff only makes sense with rough prices or range of prices.
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Old 02-15-2016, 02:22 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WAGONRACER View Post
Almost all UK turbos are manual , honda manage to sell plenty of cars with narrow power bands , especially to young kids .
That doesn't take away from anything I said.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WAGONRACER View Post
This guide is predominantly focused towards manual cars , let's say making them a better rival towards something like a sierra cosworth...
State as much then. If that's your focus, rock on.

That said, I do agree with JVL. The TD04HL family of turbos are fun, but they aren't going to have the best top end flow. They are GREAT in autos with the OE rev range where the focus is torque and roll on performance, but as the number quest increases so should the size of that hotside.

Sure, you can make 300hp with a 18t's, 19t's, etc... but compared to T04E, they are pushing the outer limits of their capability and probably working somewhere off the best part of the island.

I would suggest T3/T4's as a better option, knowing a person could fall back on a TD04HL if they are forced to be cheap. They (T3/T4's) are still infinitely cheaper then a journal or ball bearing GT or GTX series snail. 700 bucks is cheap for a good turbo!!!!

Suggest new where possible, but at least urge rebuilds. As a matter of fact, get a crap T3 from the yard and rebuild that into a T3/T4. Not hard at all and cheaper yet.
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Old 02-16-2016, 05:27 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by John V, outside agitator View Post
Costs or items?

All this stuff only makes sense with rough prices or range of prices.
This issnt a price list ,this is a list of things I have tried and tested in various combinations , im not saying other things don't work I'm saying these things do work , , if you feel something should be included note it and I'll try to edit it in .

I havnt included t3 variation turbos as I feel ,for this guide , that they are too expensive ,18 T will get it to 300 hp and after this point the t3 will need upgrading again that's not to say t3 is a bad idea if you can budget it .

Ive edited to make clear it's manual focussed , I forget you guys think autos are performance cars .

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Old 02-16-2016, 06:25 AM   #13
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The old airbox debate :

Yeah a stripped airbox with a new oem filter or better a free flowing panel filter is great if your planning to stay at stage zero/one .

however a 3" intake is hard to fit to it and leaves the airbox as a bottleneck .

Here's a fun video to back that there statement up

Or not...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCi2yo4UqPI

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Originally Posted by WAGONRACER View Post
I've put cone filter on stage 0 as it saves you wasting money on something you may chuck away later .
I personally think the main advantage of having a cone filter is like you said to hear the turbo spooling up. And if that's what you want, go for it! But about throwing away money, if you like your motor and want to drive it for a while, the paper filters don't let a crapload of junk through like their cloth substitutions. So why not keep the stock box and modify it to accept a stock paper filter from a diesel megastroke or something like that?

^I think I see a new thread in our future!!!!

And why hasn't anybody commented on first listing forged internals with the 400+ mark? You guys can sometimes be mildly inconsistent...

And here it comes
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Unique for sure.
I don't think anyone is going to tell you it looks bad.
Kinda can't go wrong under the hood.

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Old 02-16-2016, 09:52 AM   #14
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I'm more interested in getting rid of the floppy intake pipe , by all means fabricate and fit a solid 3 inch pipe to the original airbox , along with the 3inch 960 maf, seams like a big mission for claimed 2 bhp or otherwise.

I know 300 is posible on stock internals , hell we have allseen 600hp cars on 300,000 km stock rods and Pistons , ive not really covered 400+ as I would hope anyone attempting it would by this point know what they want to do , just mearly Id start thinking about them .

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Old 02-16-2016, 12:29 PM   #15
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:yawn:

an arbitrary list of garbage that may or may not get one where they are going

Without a discussion of why.

For instance, why should I replace a perfectly functional OEM headgasket to make 300bhp?

Why does 200bhp require a camshaft? (pro-tip: it doesn't. It also doesn't require a turbo change nor does it require a cone filter)



actually after reading closer, I've come to the conclusion that your info is comical at best and wrong at worst. This is possibly one of the worst written articles on page one.
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Old 02-16-2016, 12:32 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by linuxman51 View Post
:yawn:

an arbitrary list of garbage that may or may not get one where they are going

Without a discussion of why.

For instance, why should I replace a perfectly functional OEM headgasket to make 300bhp?

Why does 200bhp require a camshaft? (pro-tip: it doesn't. It also doesn't require a turbo change nor does it require a cone filter)



actually after reading closer, I've come to the conclusion that your info is comical at best and wrong at worst. This is possibly one of the worst written articles on page one.
Hey Kenny, might be helpful when multiple people have posted to let us all know just who the post is aimed at. I think you mean Oh Pea.
If so I agree emphatically.
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Old 02-16-2016, 12:34 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by linuxman51 View Post
:yawn:

an arbitrary list of garbage that may or may not get one where they are going

Without a discussion of why.

For instance, why should I replace a perfectly functional OEM headgasket to make 300bhp?

Why does 200bhp require a camshaft? (pro-tip: it doesn't. It also doesn't require a turbo change nor does it require a cone filter)



actually after reading closer, I've come to the conclusion that your info is comical at best and wrong at worst. This is possibly one of the worst written articles on page one.
FINALLY a post that makes sense in this thread...
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Old 02-16-2016, 12:39 PM   #18
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Hey Kenny, might be helpful when multiple people have posted to let us all know just who the post is aimed at. I think you mean Oh Pea.
If so I agree emphatically.
Yes, Oh pee.

incidentally (to pick hairs, if you will), oh gee also was the last to respond, so one could still conclude that was the target.

Oh P needs to do some more research from the vast amounts of data and knowledge gathered over the 14 years of this forum's existence, and maybe not rip off an old (ancient) article regarding staged mods (that, incidentally, is also out of touch with reality these days-see aforementioned data and knowledge).. At least the original gave some explanation as to the whys and wherefores.
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Old 02-16-2016, 12:48 PM   #19
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Headgasket : that's the perfect time to change it , cars apart , it takes barly more time to do it , fix that leaking waterpump seal at the same time , I'm trying to adress a problem before it becomes one .
Cam: I honestly think most drivers would appreciate it , it's not nessasary we all know a bone stock 940 with more boost will crack 200hp .

It's completly different to the 240 staged mods and rightly so .

To anyone who wishes to help:
I've tried to respond to anyone's questions
sometimes explanations leave people more confused without going deeper into detail which I will try to address with time . I've adjusted the artical as suggestions have come up .

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Old 02-16-2016, 12:53 PM   #20
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Headgasket : that's the perfect time to change it , cars apart , it takes barly less time to do it , fix that leaking waterpump seal at the same time .
Cam: I honestly think most drivers would appreciate it , it's not nessasary we all know a bone stock 940 with more boost will crack 200hp
It's completly different to the 240 staged mids and rightly so
I've tried to respond to anyone's question sometimes explanations leave people more confused . I've adjusted the artical as suggestions have come up .
I applaud the effort, but the biggest problem to me is that in terms of the cars we're working with, price points are not constant.

Skill level, initiative and access to parts I believe determines a budget more than Anything else. The more time and effort you're willing to put in the cheaper things can be to put together.

That said, once you hit a certain level, certain expensive items become inevitable, but that's more than the first several stages...
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Old 02-16-2016, 12:53 PM   #21
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Of those 14 years ive been a member nearly 10 .everything I've suggested has originally come from this forum or from trying it myself , I'm not saying this is the only way to do it , what im saying is here is what ive tried and succeeded there is always more than one way to skin a cat . This is how I skin mine.
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Old 02-16-2016, 01:02 PM   #22
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I applaud the effort, but the biggest problem to me is that in terms of the cars we're working with, price points are not constant.
...
Please elaborate , I'll try to adress it
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Old 02-16-2016, 01:11 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by linuxman51 View Post
:yawn:

an arbitrary list of garbage that may or may not get one where they are going

Without a discussion of why.

For instance, why should I replace a perfectly functional OEM headgasket to make 300bhp?

Why does 200bhp require a camshaft? (pro-tip: it doesn't. It also doesn't require a turbo change nor does it require a cone filter)



actually after reading closer, I've come to the conclusion that your info is comical at best and wrong at worst. This is possibly one of the worst written articles on page one.
Your opinion is noted , ive tried to use the following posts to answer any queries and update the thread as appropriate .
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Old 02-16-2016, 01:16 PM   #24
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Yes, Oh pee.

incidentally (to pick hairs, if you will), oh gee also was the last to respond, so one could still conclude that was the target.

Oh P needs to do some more research from the vast amounts of data and knowledge gathered over the 14 years of this forum's existence, and maybe not rip off an old (ancient) article regarding staged mods (that, incidentally, is also out of touch with reality these days-see aforementioned data and knowledge).. At least the original gave some explanation as to the whys and wherefores.
You bring up a good point. A LOT of the juicy info in a LOT of the ancient archives is seriously dubious... Its what I call in strict sense "assertions"politely and mere unproven claims in straight talk. problem is there is an amazing number of lurkers and people reading and researching and a lot of them comb thru the info and then begin from essentially a worse point than if they din't think they knew anything--worse cause first you have to disabuse them of the various nuggets they believe in and mistakenly think they "know"...

I wonder what to do because there IS a lot of good detailed info..Details and dimensions and measurements and basic rebuild procedures...But so much flapdoodle.

What to do? Re-title things "Musings"? Or "One mans reflections"?
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Old 02-16-2016, 01:21 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by John V, outside agitator View Post
You bring up a good point. A LOT of the juicy info in a LOT of the ancient archives is seriously dubious... Its what I call in strict sense "assertions"politely and mere unproven claims in straight talk. problem is there is an amazing number of lurkers and people reading and researching and a lot of them comb thru the info and then begin from essentially a worse point than if they din't think they knew anything--worse cause first you have to disabuse them of the various nuggets they believe in and mistakenly think they "know"...

I wonder what to do because there IS a lot of good detailed info..Details and dimensions and measurements and basic rebuild procedures...But so much flapdoodle.

What to do? Re-title things "Musings"? Or "One mans reflections"?
Exactly , but if more people shared what they have found or done , this forum would be a better place ,and people could make more informed decisions .
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