My first Volvo 90 745t

Mbeas96 said:

Also, looking for advice on installing an o2 sensor...seriously though. Since mine is original and there is no disconnect

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There should be, at the firewall near the coil.

This is what the O2 sensor looks like unplugged. There are two connectors.

Man, do I feel like a noob. It was right in front of my face.

What's up with people splicing wires when installing an o2?

The Mustang/aftermarket one doesn't come with a connector and has to be spliced in?

Thanks for the quick tip though, I should've posted before I installed it lmao

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I bought a generic t3 turbo blanket, it fits okay, I had to trim for the waste gate and don't know yet that it's trimmed enough. If it keeps under temps down just a little in stop and go traffic, it'll be worth the money. Looking at you spark plug wires...
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I cant wait to test this beefy wastegate actuator
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The AMM coupler, I will not say what I used...but just know it is a common household item. Especially during this covid pandemic.
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And it clears! And looks real nice. Looking back I should have wrapped the o2 bung by the flange and then cut around it. Ah well, 15 miles so far.
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Meh, cars been a headache recently. It started with my 012 AMM wanting to grenade my motor by not enriching in boost. At all. So I decided, while I find another 012, I'll stick the 016 back in. So I had to change my injectors BACK to the t5s. Whatever.

I realize, haven driven for roughly 600 miles now, my back glass gets COVERED in soot. Enough to obscure my view completely.

And I'm still losing oil, but now, now it's a lot. But there is no smoke? It doesn't really smell like burning oil, like I said, no smoke at idle or in boost, or on decel.

I'm definitely losing oil, and can't seem to find it on the ground.

What's the advantages of an upgrade pcv system? I pulled the inlet of the turbo and there's lots of oil sludge in there...

Well, thinking that a compression test would be easier to do than pull the downpipe. (My mind playing tricks on me, hoping that it's not the turbo spitting out tons of oil) I decided to do a cold one this morning, because it's like 100f right now.
1- 150
2 - 152
3- 152
4-130

Oof. 4 seems low. I tried two more times and same result. Poured about a teaspoon in cylinder 4 and same result. 130. Instead of running with these results, I'm going to do a warm test later this afternoon.

Hoping for a better outcome, but it's there's no smoke, how can there be so much oil loss, that seemingly ends up on my back glass...

Quickly put everything back together and was looking around the engine bay, it seems the oil filler cap is leaking profusely. It is a Volvo brand seal, but It has 60k miles. Then....I'm pretty sure oil is leaking out of the head gasket by cylinder 4. It's very hard to tell at this point. Engine is coated in oil. Looks as if the front seals are leaking and blowing all over the hot side of the motor.

The silicone hose from IM to oil serperator box always sweats oil. The box is gooped up on the outside and looks as if it's leaking at the seem. But the intake side is definitely dry compared to the hot side. Hurray.

Instead of doing another compression test I feel like my best bet is to pull the car on ramps. Remove downpipe, check for oil. If no oil found, clean block and run car while laying underneath on ramps. Look for oil.

I mean, is it really plausible that oil is flinging off the engine and ending up on my back windshield?

It's actually really wet still too, I wipe my fingers and it looks like wet oil, with a smidge of black soot.

I had an oily rear hatch issue which was caused by the o-ring where the dipstick tube enters the block. It was leaking under load, causing a sort of mist due to crankcase pressure. It was hard to see the source, and it would coat the back of my car in oil in a fairly short amount of time.

Based on my experience, I would think oil leaking from your engine is a plausible cause of your issue, or at least worth investigating further

Sir Bricks-A-Lot said:

I had an oily rear hatch issue which was caused by the o-ring where the dipstick tube enters the block. It was leaking under load, causing a sort of mist due to crankcase pressure. It was hard to see the source, and it would coat the back of my car in oil in a fairly short amount of time.

Based on my experience, I would think oil leaking from your engine is a plausible cause of your issue, or at least worth investigating further

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I always tend to think the worst. Especially when I do things myself. I took a peek under the car. I ran it for probably 10 minutes, idling, with me under it and no obvious drips occured, but it is definitely wet. Super wet. Like everything is leaking. Looks like it might be time for a reseal. Including a HG.
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Notice I wiped below the valve cover abut a week ago. It doesn't look like there is fresh oil until it gets to the point where the head meets the block.
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Then, it does look oily around cylinder 4 spark plug hole. Cylinderso 2 & 3 spark plug holes are not wet. Number 1 is because of the oil filler cap.
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Everything is so wet. Drips of oil on places that I wouldn't even think oil could get to.
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There was hanging in the steel braided drain hose where it connects to the AN fitting and on one of the oil cooler lines, which I wiped off previous to taking the picture. It did seem to have a slight ring of oil around around the yoshi fitting in the block, but that's probably from above.

There are oil drips on the clamp that holds the hot side of the turbo to the chra and on the waste gate arm. Wtf. There are new copper crush rings in the inlet and the top of the chra is dry.
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I held a white piece of printer paper behind my open downpipe for a couple minutes with it idling. It's definitely not blowing oil out the exhaust, at idle anyways. I'd bet it's not under load either.

Oh and btw. The Do it your self ceramic coating I used, is already is burning off. Maybe if I sanded/blasted the rust completely off and primed it it would've stuck better.

Started having a driving issue, possibly a bad o2 sensor, not exactly sure, but also had a leaking injector where it connects to the fuel rail.
Here's the non performance thread...
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=355317

Not wanting to cut corners, I removed the strut brace to properly remove the fuel rail and seat all injectors, cleaned the injection grounds on the rail, I also removed the oil separator box and cleaned it out, with barely anything being removed. Blew air thru it and it did not seem to be obstructed. I made sure all hoses for the pcv system were clear and I actually was able to remove the drain back hose (it stuck to the bottom of the separator box and came out as it pulled the box out) so I cut it shorter to help in the future with pcv problems.

Cleaned the block up on intake side and then put a new oil cap seal. Let's see if I have pcv problems...

Ive had lots going on, having been a supervisor at a custom closet company for almost 7 years, I have finally pushed myself to take the leap of being self employed. My oldest brother has taught me various things to "be your own boss", thrift/pawn shopping, ebay/online/local reselling, hustling to not have to make somebody else 10x what you are getting. To be able to stay home and watch your kids grow. Being motivated is so much easier when you have the power to control how you make your money. It is also very scary and is still very nerve wracking, especially since it's only been 3 weeks since my last day "working", and only <3 months "professionally" reselling...
It is still weird to say, I'm a business owner...it sounds silly really.

But, after an extended break from the Vo, I think I'm about ready to not feel defeated...after the 19t was a fail, I looked into the good points...I have the angled hotside functional and the 3 inch down pipe to match fits well. The turbo doesn't seem to play nice, but my old high school buddy works at Volvo and they were going thru old inventory....

Found and gave to me for free, a 12t from I'm thinking an early 2000s fwd car, brand new, never used. It came with an angled outside! What a crazy find. He also found some cool old Volvo posterboards, I'll get some pics of everything soon and post up.

So, I ordered the "oil filter extension arm" seals, new turbo oil drain seal, new copper crush rings, a new 10an steel braided hose for the oil drain-block line and a new oil filler cap seal. All the parts came in yesterday, so I'll slowly be working my way back thru the exhaust side and hopefully button everything up, with no leaks, and a MUCH smaller turbo unfortunately...

There will be a bigger turbo...there's no way I'll be happy with the 12t, when I drove 60k with a 16t, so looks like I'll be looking for a factory used 16t for now. The 19t will be put aside and saved till I have funds to send it off and have it done right. It's all easily swapped thanks to the angled housing.

I read through the last few pages. Sounds frustrating but glad to hear about your plan to get it going gain with the 12T seems like a good way to get it going again and restart momentum. Congrats on being your own boss!