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[240] Right rear spins turning right, left rear does not spin turning left. Wut?

Something wrong with that Truetrac if it does that. I've never spun one tire. I suspect mine is a higher preload version but an older model, it's been in use so long.

I don't want to discredit your experience, but we've had several, and even on the original car with a succession of B230F's we'd lift the RR and it'd spin up.

You might have too soft front springs and it lifts the rear corner.

Certainly possible, our setup is currently very soft.

Lack of grip while accelerating in a corner hasn't been an issue on track with good 225/45/17 street tires. On the other hand Nankang NS-2R semislicks have been lousy :p

We run 245 Direzza ZIIIs all 'round, traction's not a problem as long as we can get weight on the ground.

Here's some video of someone that knows what they're doing punting the car at Thunderhill last weekend, so you don't think it's just because we're a bunch of scrubs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvF7IwiQQ2Q
 
I don't want to discredit your experience, but we've had several, and even on the original car with a succession of B230F's we'd lift the RR and it'd spin up.

Certainly possible, our setup is currently very soft.
I thought it was with all wheels well on the ground. Then it spins just because the wheel doesn't have enough weight on it. Too much weight transfer. And the mentioned torque reaction affects that corner too.
 
It is probably a combination of some/all of the above.

I mentioned corner weights because it's something measurable, not because it's the only answer.
If the panhard is flat, it is less likely to be the big culprit, as compared to the torque of the driveshaft coupled with the soft rear springs (proven over and over again by 16 year-olds everywhere).
But the stiffer the overall set-up, the more corner weight problems matter.

Circle track guys can teach you a lot, but you have to remember they are often TRYING to get an imbalance.
 
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Our car is just on cut factory springs with cheap KYB replacement shocks, hardly stiff. Slightly modified B230F. I would say that maybe the additional torque of the M52 is the difference, but you said the B230s you've had did it too. I don't know. Watching the vid you posted I only heard it light the tires in one spot, right crest over hill.

I agree with the rock and a hard place when you add front roll stiffness to keep weight on the inside rear tire.

Maybe rr shocks with more compression and less rebound? Again, I don't know. If you figure it out, I'm interested.
 
Watching the vid you posted I only heard it light the tires in one spot, right crest over hill.

It happens in T3 at about 30s into the video, on the downhill coming out of the Cyclone starting at 45s, over on the west side at 1m46, and again at 2m27, over the connector at 2m41, and then a big serve in T14/15 at 3m13 or so.

We'll definitely be trying some of the suggestions folks have made here, and I'll update the thread if we sort anything out.
 
The Truetrac? If it is, then we've bought several busted ones, because they all do it.

I had the same experience with the true trac. Its fine on the street. if you start racing the car and really pushing it unloads the rear and it spins.

You would never know in a street car. For track or autox it lacks alot.
 
I had the same experience with the true trac. Its fine on the street. if you start racing the car and really pushing it unloads the rear and it spins.

I don't know. We push our LeMons car pretty hard on 205's and very seldom have this happen. Like I said, if you're ham-fisted with it, it'll spin, but it's easy to adjust your driving style.
 
It happens in T3 at about 30s into the video, on the downhill coming out of the Cyclone starting at 45s, over on the west side at 1m46, and again at 2m27, over the connector at 2m41, and then a big serve in T14/15 at 3m13 or so.

We'll definitely be trying some of the suggestions folks have made here, and I'll update the thread if we sort anything out.

At 2:40 it's easy to see, starts into the throttle, wheel spin, ease off, and then floor it as the steering opens back to straight ahead.

I thought it might be setup related, but I don't know....it's losing traction pretty easily and can't go full throttle til nearly pointed straight. Turn down the boost :lol:

I guess you could put a Ford 8.8 axle in it. It's just more fab work. :e-shrug: The added unsprung weight is a downside, but a working clutch diff and a larger ring & pinion would add quite a bit to the car. Junkyard axle from an Explorer, ~$200 or less?, rebuild kit for the clutch diff $75, cutting/welding...your time.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=2982390&postcount=5
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=274343
 
I guess you could put a Ford 8.8 axle in it. It's just more fab work. :e-shrug: The added unsprung weight is a downside, but a working clutch diff and a larger ring & pinion would add quite a bit to the car. Junkyard axle from an Explorer, ~$200 or less?, rebuild kit for the clutch diff $75, cutting/welding...your time.

We've been considering it, but our custom ABS setup would complicate that. None of the Ford axles seem to come with a 48t reluctor at the wheel (all seem to be diff-mounted), and it doesn't look like we'd be able to repeat the trick we played with the Volvo axle due to the way the bearing tube protrudes into the parking brake space...

It'd probably work out cheaper / quicker to talk to the Grabber folks...
 
...and it doesn't look like we'd be able to repeat the trick we played with the Volvo axle due to the way the bearing tube protrudes into the parking brake space...

Cut the tube ends off the Volvo housing and weld them to the Ford tubes --- keep all of your existing Volvo brake/ebrake set up. There's a Timken bearing that will work with a Moser axle and the Dana housing end 0n the 8.8".
 
Cut the tube ends off the Volvo housing and weld them to the Ford tubes --- keep all of your existing Volvo brake/ebrake set up. There's a Timken bearing that will work with a Moser axle and the Dana housing end 0n the 8.8".

Wow. I mean, I'm not going to say this is crazy, but the fact that you know this begs so many questions I almost don't know where to start. 8)

Is there any sort of convenient relationship between the Ford and Volvo tube diameters, or are we talking a butt joint here? Just, hypothetically speaking you understand...
 
Wow. I mean, I'm not going to say this is crazy, but the fact that you know this begs so many questions I almost don't know where to start. 8)

Is there any sort of convenient relationship between the Ford and Volvo tube diameters, or are we talking a butt joint here? Just, hypothetically speaking you understand...
The Volvo tube is considerably smaller in diameter than the Ford, it doesn't seem easy to me as it took me several hours of finagling to just shorten one side.i didn't measure it though, the Ford does taper down a bit at the end.
 
Could you build a new body mount for the panhard rod to get it closer to horizontal?
Edit: Sort of a rhetorical question, but you see my point.
 
Wow. I mean, I'm not going to say this is crazy, but the fact that you know this begs so many questions I almost don't know where to start. 8)

Is there any sort of convenient relationship between the Ford and Volvo tube diameters, or are we talking a butt joint here? Just, hypothetically speaking you understand...

The ends of the volvo axle (bearing flange) have to be machined to slip inside the Ford tubes.
STS Machining is doing that with an axle right now.
 
Could you build a new body mount for the panhard rod to get it closer to horizontal?
Edit: Sort of a rhetorical question, but you see my point.

Actually considering an extender to lower the attachment point on the axle, as looking at e.g. the GrpA 240 rear ends suggests they shifted the mount on the axle rather than at the body end.
 
Actually considering an extender to lower the attachment point on the axle, as looking at e.g. the GrpA 240 rear ends suggests they shifted the mount on the axle rather than at the body end.

Yes, thats better. lowers the rear roll center.

Been wanting to release product for a while now that does that.

BTW.. since you have that fancy ass ABS, why not rig up a traction control strategy? If you can get the rear to slightly drag in the inside rear caliper... the truetrac can work.
 
If you can get the rear to slightly drag in the inside rear caliper... the truetrac can work.

Hence the left-foot-brake experiment -- which ended up working quite well in a friend's car; but with electronics could be even more effective.

Wow. I mean, I'm not going to say this is crazy, but the fact that you know this begs so many questions I almost don't know where to start. 8)

Is there any sort of convenient relationship between the Ford and Volvo tube diameters, or are we talking a butt joint here? Just, hypothetically speaking you understand...

It's how we did the Ford 8.8" rearend in mine -- that's in year 9 of it's "beta" test. All stock Volvo rear brakes/ebrake/Volvo bolt circle -- I wanted to keep my wheels and for my needs, the stock rear brakes were sufficient. Yes, the Volvo tube is slightly smaller than the Ford tube - but not so much smaller that it poses a problem. Properly aligned/welded/beveled - butt welding axle tubes isn't a problem at all. In fact, the VAST majority of rearend narrowing is done this way.

BTW - not suggesting this is the way to go - just that if you decide you wanna move to something stouter, with lots of gear/LSD/locker options and you have to cut/paste to make it fit anyway, it's pretty easy to keep your braking set up.
 
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An old drag racing trick was to put an air bag/lift in the R/R spring coil or over the leaf spring to preload that side due to the torque reaction.
 
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