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have you better solution that the g80 ?

W

WTF99

New member
Joined
Jul 31, 2018
Location
France
Hi all,

I hope you can me help I search a solution for have a real diff at the place from the G80.
In first time I have think I go to a lokka but after view video if YouTube this system make too much horrible noise.

A Qaife cost around 1000usd but that work perfect

If you have a other solution (not welding) with a lower budget she's welcome.

Thanks for your help
 
I swapped in a Ford 8.8 from a Ford Explorer but it requires extensive welding for the brackets and shortening one axle tube. It should be indestructible, I installed the clutch pack kit for a Mustang Cobra, it drives hard out of corners. It also has 4.10 gears. I paid $180 for the axle from do it yourself junkyard the clutch kit and special fluid was another $150.00.
 
Look into an Eaton TruTrac. They've been tried and true i a lot of cars here for a long time. I've got one in all 3 of my fleet, 2 Volvo's and a Dodge, really solid units without the Quaife price tag. You need the 912A588.
 
WTF99 said:
Sorry i should have specified plug and play
Click to expand...

Yeah..... the Eaton or Wave Trac are probably going to be the cheapest/easiest, but will still require ?professional? installation.
Then it?s Gripper/TransX/Sellholm/etc for a nice plated LSD.
 
The eaton is about as plug and play as it gets for an axle. I watched my buddy put one in his 240 and its a huge pain in the ass to shim it, but you can't avoid that no matter what differential you choose
 
gsellstr said:
Look into an Eaton TruTrac. They've been tried and true i a lot of cars here for a long time. I've got one in all 3 of my fleet, 2 Volvo's and a Dodge, really solid units without the Quaife price tag. You need the 912A588.
Click to expand...

I would get a true track again or buy the one from Kaplenke. If you want to take a chance. You can swap the shims over from the diff in the car. It would be hit or miss but this stuff is made to good tolerances. When I had mine installed I paid a shop to install it. That was also the time to replace the rear wheel bearings, too. One of my wheel bearings was leaking and the shop had an oven to bake the parking brake shoes to remove the oil from them. It was expensive but in the end if you aren't doing the work it was worth every penny.
 
dl242gt said:
I would get a true track again or buy the one from Kaplenke. If you want to take a chance. You can swap the shims over from the diff in the car. It would be hit or miss but this stuff is made to good tolerances. When I had mine installed I paid a shop to install it. That was also the time to replace the rear wheel bearings, too. One of my wheel bearings was leaking and the shop had an oven to bake the parking brake shoes to remove the oil from them. It was expensive but in the end if you aren't doing the work it was worth every penny.
Click to expand...

How much did you pay to cook your parking brake shoes?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/volvo,1984,242,2.1l+l4+turbocharged,1287301,brake+&+wheel+hub,parking+brake+shoe,10177
 
WTF99 said:
Nobody did a tutorial with pics or video because it would help me a lot
Click to expand...

Greenbook rear diff. setup for the 1031 will put you in contact with the install procedure. Preload of carrier bearings, and backlash are required. I've got some pertinent pics in my build thread that should help you. Somewhere, I've got the factory early 960 specs and instructions..... in case you have a 9 series non IRS.
 
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I can't find the old tutorial I did, so I need to do that again.
I measure the old carrier and new carrier (shim to shim, ring gear to shim) on a press after measuring backlash, disassembling, and removing/measuring the old shims. Then I do the math, put the new shims behind the new bearings, and install.
 
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