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My '91 744 B204GT project

Last 80mm intake pipe arrived yesterday, so here we go...

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Engine started today :)
It was running rough though...very low idle rpm and then it eventually stalled. I've tried to pull the codes but surprisingly no reaction from the jetronic diagnostic socket.
Swapped back the original lh jetronic chip and voila, running fine except being rich because of the greentops. Also diagnostic socket was working.
So it seems I have issue with the BTI lh chip...being checked with the company guy.
On the other hand...I am really happy everything else works...wasted spark ignition, all the new tubing, it is not leaking oil...it was a good day today after all :)
 
Your oil drain doesn't really look like it's a nice gravity drain from the pics you posted. Might be something to check, or I'm seeing it wrong?
 
Your oil drain doesn't really look like it's a nice gravity drain (...)
You are completely right (and God bless you and turbobricks for that remark :nod: ).
I thought the oil return can be basically any shape (as the other side is pressurized so it would push out the oil no matter the shape) but after reading bit more on this topic I understood that the oil return really needs to allow gravity drain.
That in other words means it is not possible to use the AN10 oil return kit from Yoshifab on stock b204ft/gt, as the stock location of the turbo is too low...if I mount the T3 AN adapter the hose end is already below the level of the engine block feed :roll:
So yeah...after taking some measurements, I've realized I have no other option than fall back to the stock oil return line :grrr: I've already removed the Yoshifab press-in adapter (hell of a job) and put the OEM return line in place using a new oring seal and some high temp silicon on the outer side.
Lesson learnt...
 
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I have finally received the fixed chip from BTI for the 597 LH Jetronic ECU, so I was able to test-start the car again.
Good thing is now it idles nicely and runs smoothly, but two weird things:

- although the hydraulic lifters are new, there is still some knocking noise. Or am I paranoid? Thoughts?
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- it smokes LIKE HELL :omg: could it be caused by the fact that (moths ago) I have filled all the cylinders with mix of ATF to free up the rings? I thought this oil must be all gone now. The engine is without any coolant so its not steam.
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Lifters need time to fill up. Warm the oil up and take it for a spin around the block. Mid-revs, light load...
That should do the trick. If not, check oil pressure...

Smoke...it takes some time to burn it, and exhaust is probably contaminated as well. Give it an hour or three. If it still doesn't stop, start worrying about still stuck rings and worn liners, which is something 204FT's have a knack for.

Good luck. You're getting there...
 
The main reason of the smoke is me being stupid :roll: as I have several ECUs and chips laying around, of course I started the car with the original chip by mistake. So because of the greentops it was super rich. After swapping to the proper chip, it smokes much less - but indeed it still needs some time to burn off the ATF.

In the meantime mainly cosmetic stuff...the rear heavily scratched bumper has been replaced by a nice one (that was in wrong color so that was repainted to matte black that is not matte yet on the picture because of the paint curing), I have repainted the trimming and replaced all the clips and screws.

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Also the installation of the wideband and the boost gauge is almost done, I managed to wire it through the dashboard with almost no modifications, just the top plastic cover was shortened by ~2cm. I need to add just two wires for the powering the backlight of the boost gauge and assemble it all together.

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And finally I have removed the trunk lid and the wing that was both covered in combination of dirt, dust and mesh and pressure washed it. The trunk lid is fine as it is, the wind needs to be repainted though. Removal of the old paint will be the main challenge.

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Not much progress these days. At least I have managed to mount the exhaust manifold heat shield and finished the gauge pod mounting. I had to disassemble the vent system again as I found another location inside the air pipes full of nuts :)

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Finally the last thing in the engine compartment finished - bracket to support the charger intake tubing was made and installed into the balance shafts mounting holes. Not very fancy, but it will do the job :)

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First slow ride yesterday! (no license plates though, so very careful and very slow :) )
Good findings:
- nothing exploded so far
- it still goes both forward and backward
- shifting the m90 with the clutch/pp combo is just fine
- after 10 mins idling the smoke is gone
- afr is nicely around 14.7 on idle
- the PU engine mounts are not transferring excessive vibrations

Not that good findings:
- I have an oil leak under the breather box (it doesn't seal well against the engine surface, new o-rings ordered)
- fuel level gauge is bit inconsistent (showing either half of the tank or almost empty)
- that light knocking is still there. The PO said once that it goes away when it is fully warmed up (that's why I was suspecting the lifters) but I might be dealing with something more severe. More investigation to be done here.
 
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Progress today. New o-rings from dealership for the crankcase breather installed, both are significantly thicker compared to the old one so it should seal well this time.

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Also I've decided to get rid of the nasty rust spot below the rear light and some dents below the license plate. There was most likely water leaking around the light seal and then getting into the gap where the body panels are spot-welded together.

That's the starting point
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Nasty..
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Getting serious...
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Cleaned up with wire wheel, no more surface rust
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Middle section was too rusty so I've cut it out
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Then five or six layers of fiberglass applied
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And then finally I started building it back to the original shape
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And applied the primer at the end of the day
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Moving forward; the IRS delrin differential bushings from > Kaplhenke < arrived, so I am getting ready to drop the rear and replace them (the old ones are shot).
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Also, 100 sandpapers and few liters of paint stripper later, I've got the rear wing clean; plastic primer was then applied, base primer and spray filler on few spots where the surface was uneven.
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The radio started acting weirdly and some buttons stopped working...after disassembly I found out that some PCB tracks oxidized away and it's not even possible to solder it anymore. That's where the conductive gel comes into play ;-) all back to normal with the fix. Also the bulb backlight has been converted to LED's.

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And the last few days I've been tackling the rest of the dents and rust spots here and there. I am getting used to the rattle can paint job ;-)
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