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Our latest '70 145 Project - Need a few things. Any Ideas?

Update and question: Steering wheel boss for an early 140 Series

I switched out the LED turn signal bulbs for ****ty Chinese bulbs and they worked. The Hazards and the turn signals. Even the little red light on the switch works.

Now, I bought a Luisi boss for my new Nardi and it isn't correct. So that is going back. The boss I did find that looks like it will work says it is for 140 series "since" 1973. Since I have a '70 I am concerned that there is going to be trouble.

Has anyone installed a typical Nardi, Personal wheel with a boss for an early 140? Is there a difference in the steering column?
 
I switched out the LED turn signal bulbs for ****ty Chinese bulbs and they worked. The Hazards and the turn signals. Even the little red light on the switch works.

Now, I bought a Luisi boss for my new Nardi and it isn't correct. So that is going back. The boss I did find that looks like it will work says it is for 140 series "since" 1973. Since I have a '70 I am concerned that there is going to be trouble.

Has anyone installed a typical Nardi, Personal wheel with a boss for an early 140? Is there a difference in the steering column?

No the offset / depth of the wheel and surround changes 72-73.
 
I put the Luisi 7702 on my ?70-
https://classicgarage.com/7702.html

Then got an adaptor to use a Moto Lita wheel.

I followed the link and see they have a 7702 boss that is giving me the problem. So I am confused by the "adapter" comment.

This picture shows what my issue is. Is this the same part you had to deal with? My apologies for the typos on the image. (by noth I meant "notch")

over-2-copy-e1582990622223.jpg
 
The 7702 that I got accommodates that plastic piece. As in your photo, that round removable plastic spacer sits in the notch.
The fitment issues I ran into (to address your other question) were column diameter differences. I think the bow tie wheels use a larger diameter column as in the Moto-Lita boss F14:
https://www.moto-lita.co.uk/bosses/f14/
I tried that one and it was too big.

The only reason I mentioned that Moto-Lita adapter was to reassure anyone reading that you can use different wheels with different aftermarket hubs.
 
The 7702 that I got accommodates that plastic piece. As in your photo, that round removable plastic spacer sits in the notch.
The fitment issues I ran into (to address your other question) were column diameter differences. I think the bow tie wheels use a larger diameter column as in the Moto-Lita boss F14:
https://www.moto-lita.co.uk/bosses/f14/
I tried that one and it was too big.

The only reason I mentioned that Moto-Lita adapter was to reassure anyone reading that you can use different wheels with different aftermarket hubs.

Thanks so much for sharing your experience. in my picture, where you see the notch on the boss in contact with the small round end that caps off the internal spring of the Volvo plastic part. I tried ignoring the fact that round plastic and rectangular notch don't mix and as I tightened it, the round part deformed and I was sure it would crack into pieces and allow the spring to be released. A friend suggested I file out the notch on the boss to make them match and allow the boss to seat on the over plastic part. Care to share your thoughts?
 
Thanks so much for sharing your experience. in my picture, where you see the notch on the boss in contact with the small round end that caps off the internal spring of the Volvo plastic part. I tried ignoring the fact that round plastic and rectangular notch don't mix and as I tightened it, the round part deformed and I was sure it would crack into pieces and allow the spring to be released. A friend suggested I file out the notch on the boss to make them match and allow the boss to seat on the over plastic part. Care to share your thoughts?

I would file that notch and call it a win.
 
Things are looking up! Here is a curious puzzle

I received the gauge cluster from Palo Alto Speedometer. They had to clean/replace a few little gears, replace the bulbs and jump the rheostat. Everything worked on the bench. When I installed it in the 145, the hi-beam blue light didn?t work. I replaced the bulb and no joy. Of course the hi-beams work and there is a new ?used? switch, so my question is: is there an electrical signal from the switch that actuate the light (of course there is)? Have I crossed a wire on the switch when I replaced it? I thought I was pretty careful when I did.

We got the license plate lights and rear wiper running. Just need to finalize that repair and tidy up. The only issue preventing me from driving it is a delay caused by the wrong boss for the new Nardi leather wheel. A new used one found by a fellow forum member is on its way from the UK. Should be here Tuesday.

Then it is off to a local shop to lubricate the chassis, change the trans and diff oil, fix a bunch of bushings and repack the wheel bearings. After a 30-year sleep, I think it appropriate. Stay tuned.
 
The high beam indicator light connection on the 140 borders on the bizarre. There is a connection from the high beam connection on the latching headlight relay to the #2 fuse and from the other side of the #2 fuse up to the connector on the dash cluster. Those are the only connections on the #2 fuse. If you have confirmed that the dash cluster wiring is OK, most likely you have a problem with the #2 fuse or the connection at the latching relay.

The headlight system on the 140 is completely un fused. A short to the body on the headlight wiring will be extinguished by either melting the wiring or lighting the car on fire. How Volvo figured out that they needed to add a dedicated fuse to protect the car from a short in a 1.5 watt indicator bulb is a mystery.
 
There are a couple of grey ground wires that are supposed to be attached to one of the turn signal switch mounting screws. Were they left off?

The hi beam indicator isn't very bright. Darken the inside of the car and check it again.
 
Hinge Wiring - One last time

I'm set on repairing the tailgate wiring issue this week. I inspected my hinges yesterday and they function okay but I am considering investing in a new set with the ground wire in place. Obviously they will look better and make the task easier. One big question mark (?), there are no new 145 tailgate hinges only 245 hinges.

From the pictures, they look the same but I don't want to order them unless I know for sure. Has anyone compared the 2 and arrived at a verdict?
 
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