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The (More Fun) Daily Driver Build

Ok. Good to know that I can yard it out.
One thing comes to mind though.
What about using it to evacuate the engine case rather than the standard PCV-flametrap setup? I was going to just run a breather can (and get rid of all the extra stuff), but if I can actually evacuate the engine case that would be even better. Does it run all of the time or just on a vacuum signal?
 
Been a while, so a quick update.

Demo on the 760 continues. Got the front struts out. Work has been pounding on me lately so I have had a whopping couple of hours over the last two weeks to work on it. I need to hurry up as my current DD is disintegrating around me. I had to rip the door panel off yesterday as the outer handle failed AND the inner mechanism lost a clip - resulting in a stuck closed door.

Found a 5 bar oil pressure gauge on CL for a whopping $10. Its unbelievebly NOS. Just missing the sender. It even has the installation instructions! I'll scan them and post if anyone wants them.

The guy even gave me two studded snow tires and a rear cargo tray for a wagon for free! said that he was 'cleaning out all his old Volvo stuff and I looked like someone who could appreciate it' :)
 
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Got the engine out and on the stand. Very complete and needs a good washdown.
Thought it might be interesting to post a pic of the 'crumple zone' after a front end collision with a solid barrier. kinda cool.
pass side frame rail
drivers side frame rail
overhead view
 

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Been a dog's age, but it is still progressing (slowly).

Got side tracked building a sandblasting cabinet after I was scolded about using the one at work.
Anyway the front struts are done except for the Kalphlenke kit that should arrive any day.
The steering rack is nice and tight.
The rearend is filled with IPD goodness.
Ever wonder what the difference is between the manual ball joints and power rack ball joints? Caster. Should make low speed steering liveable, but a bit nervous on the highway. We'll see.
Lastly is my latest accumulation for my next project.
 

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Anyway, I wouldn't use the ps steering ball joints. I thought the same thing, but the manual ball joints work much better.

I think that they will most likely be just fine. As most of my commute is in excess of 65MPH, I only worry about the steering being a bit 'nervous' with several degrees less caster. I'm going to try the Kalphenke units on the center hole. If it is too crazy, I'll switch to the 'stock' hole on the outer end. That is, once it arrives......

That head has too many valves.... Where's it going?

There are acutaly two complete 16V heads there.... In the 83 242 GLT that I have out back. I'm in the parts accumulation phase of that project. I'm regularly scouring the yards for a 91+ block and a GT mustang with its T-5 still in it.
 
Thread revival......

I've been DD this car for a couple of years now. Still don't have the B23FT done. My DD 83 244 got totaled (rear ended) and I swapped its guts over to this car.

As the car sits now:

B23 high compression (~11:1) with an H cam.
Nuke cam gear +5 degrees.
iPD springs front and rear.
Bilstien HD front and rear.
upper and lower chassis brace.
strut brace.
UEGO wideband.
5 bar oil pressure
oil temperature gauge
single round flathood.
elephant ears.
Tethys with 235/45/17
extended wheel studs
25MM spacers.
 
Currentish picture. Was running a set of iPD RWD Pegs at the time.

I later swapped to the Tethys.

One note, I run drive cameras front and rear after a near swoop-and-squat episode on the highway. I've caught several accidents as a result of running these. They are cheap these days, I recommend them.

I ended up dumping the crappy suction cup mount and using a GoPro sticky mount and made a transition piece out of HDPE that I got from Tap Plastics.

Did some stuff yesterday.
1. Mounted a replacement rear valence and swapped the mangled recovery loop out. Amazing how much better it makes the rear end look.
2. Tightened (another) loose bolt on the rear suspension. This one was the RF bolt on the trailing arm.
3. Repacked the front wheel bearings. Maintenance, maintenance.
4. Determined that the creaking was the heim joints on the BNE comfort upper control arms and the BNE TAB bushing. Nothing wrong with them, they just creak like all heim joints do after a few miles.

I have an 84 245 on the trailer for parts these days. I'm continually surprised at just how many parts I strip off of it on a regular basis to keep the fleet on the road.
 

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I'd like to reiterate how much the west coast sucks ballz. A 50 dollar 242? Really???


It's turning into a nice ride man. Keep it up...
 
:grrr:
 

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