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940 Help: Rear Axle leakage. Need replace seal + bearings

D

Djw21a

New member
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Location
Central Georgia
Car:
1993 940, Solid Axle, Regina

Problem:
Couple days ago went out to change my brake lines on my 940, discovered passenger rear tire inside firewall was covered in sticky oily substance. Removed brake rotor + caliper to find source found severe seepage around area. Been told I need to replace the seal by a Volvo Master Mechanic however the process is somewhat involved for my experience level. I was also told I might as well do the bearings on both shafts as well as the seals for those shafts at the same time. Could someone point me in the right direction where I could buy these items? Thus far I've only found the following results:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...:+2.3L+140CI+L4+FI+VIN:+A&searchedFrom=header

Lastly any experience or suggestions would be helpful. I've never pulled an axle before. I know certain measurements have to be taken into consideration
 
Get the FCP kit. Seal replacement requires bearing removal. It can be done without killing the bearing but save yourself the time and grief and do a new bearing.

There is an outer seal that goes between the bearing and the retainer plate on the axle shaft and an inner seal that goes into the axle tube.

Axle removal is easy, remove wheel, caliper, rotor, e-brake shoes, 4 bolts holding retainer plate, then pull axle out. If it fights, you can reinstall the rotor backwards, put a couple lug nuts on and use it for a little extra pulling force. It should just slide out. From there you need to remove the old bearing (can be carefully done with a cutoff wheel. Now, once you are at that point, you will need a press to install the new bearing and the lock ring. Also, make damn sure you get the retainer plate on, then the seal BEFORE you press on the new bearing. If you have a press where you are working on it, the job takes about 45 minutes start to finish.
 
I don't have a press. I was informed that I could possibly get a machinist, whom did my cylinder head job, to do each shaft for probably $35 each. However I was also informed that I might need to do the inner bearings as well; which this kit (below) doesn't include. Also I was informed that I need to get each shaft installed precisely or the bearings possibly.

My buddy, a mechanic, gave me instructions via MotoLogic reading

WARNING
When reinstalling the additional toothed gear on axles, the gear must be installed precisely 116mm onto the shaft. The acceptable margin is plus or minus 0.1mm. If at all possible, use Volvo tool 2412 which will allow precise location of this gear. If this gear is not properly located, the vesicle may not run properly

Is this something I should pass onto my machinist or is it something that should be obvious from the outset? Lastly the kit I included above https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-wheel-bearing-kit-rear-740-760-780-940-960-271262 appears to have the outer shaft seal

Am I making this more complicated than it actually is? I've been told I have a real bad habit of doing that sometimes :oops:.

Thanks Guys
DJ
 
Not sure what your friend looked up, but it ain't for your car. There is no toothed ring (usually an ABS ring, doesn't apply on the Volvo RWD stuff since that's handled in the diff), there's also no 'inner bearing', only the diff carrier bearings and axle shaft bearings.

If you can pull the axles (basic hand tools, couple sockets, screwdriver or pliers for the springs), then and machine shop with a press can deal with the rest of it really easily. You can make it easier if you cut the old bearing off but if not, they can do that easily as well.

The kit you linked to includes the bearing, lock ring, and both inner and outer seals.
 
:nod: I had a shop swap axle bearings for $40 a piece, done. Install new Volvo seals, no leaks. Follow Greenbook procedure. Never fails.
 
gsellstr said:
Not sure what your friend looked up, but it ain't for your car. There is no toothed ring (usually an ABS ring, doesn't apply on the Volvo RWD stuff since that's handled in the diff), there's also no 'inner bearing', only the diff carrier bearings and axle shaft bearings.

If you can pull the axles (basic hand tools, couple sockets, screwdriver or pliers for the springs), then and machine shop with a press can deal with the rest of it really easily. You can make it easier if you cut the old bearing off but if not, they can do that easily as well.

The kit you linked to includes the bearing, lock ring, and both inner and outer seals.
Click to expand...

Thanks Gsellstr, you've again helped pull me out of being perplexed over this car. Last time was with the front suspension over quality type bushing etc.

Thanks Again

centason said:
:nod: I had a shop swap axle bearings for $40 a piece, done. Install new Volvo seals, no leaks. Follow Greenbook procedure. Never fails.
Click to expand...

I used to be able to access portions of the Greenbook online but can't anymore. Something with the website is screwy.
 
I paid more to have a shop remove/press new bearing on than I did for parts.... The most difficult part for me was getting the brake shoes for the ebrake back on. Save yourself some headache and buy a brake spring tool.
 
Glad I can help. :)

Never used a brake spring tool on the e-brakes. Have on the truck stuff, but these are easy. Quick suggestion...screwdriver between 2 coils near one end of the spring (opposite end already in place). Put the screwdriver thru the hole in the axle flange before putting into the spring. Rotate the axle flange to stretch the spring. Makes it 10x more stable, easier to stretch and get into position.
 
General update

Okay, where to start. How about some new history on this car and where that history came from eeh?

Okay back in the day this car was brought to an old friend of mine whom I met through my mother. The guy was/is a master Volvo technician then left Volvo and opened his own business. Saw 30 of these cars per week, had roughly 300+ customers.

I brought my axle shafts to Joe, guy mentioned above, and he informed me this car came to him once and while test driving it he heard a huge grinding noise coming from the differential. He suspects the car had its differential messed with/rebuilt. Supporting evidence came upon looking at the axle shafts themselves. The bearings on them were Timken cone wheel bearings not ones like I ordered just recently in the kit from FCP mentioned above and most diff not the Volvo ones which price checked @ $147 each recently.

New bearings concerns:
Okay I pried old Volvo OE inner seals out and installed new ones. Also while shafts were out I cleaned the surfaces where new bearing races would be touching. Then coated (liberally) bearing w/ additional high temp wheel bearing grease and shoved it home. Lastly I torqued down the four retaining bolts to spec (29ft-lbs). All this was obviously done after i'd drained the old fluid and no tinkerbell hadn't been living in my differential


Question
After doing all this I now rotate the axle shafts and get a clunking/clanking noise sounding from the bearing area itself. I've been assured that what I'm hearing is coming from the lack of fluid in the differential casing but am unsure. And where do I come when I'm unsure? Obviously here. Lastly when I rotate the shaft/s they rotate freely but then when the noise comes with a slightest bit of friction then the shaft/s continues to rotate. This occurs via my best guesstimate in @ least between 10-15 degree increment's. Is this normal/ish?
 
Definitely not normal. Any chance you can post a video of it? Any chance there is something in the e-brake setup that's contacting?

For clarification, when you rotate from one axle shaft you get a noise and resistance that is not consistent as you rotate?

Is the trans in gear/park or neutral?

If you rotate from the driveshaft end, is the noise/resistance still there?

Is the other wheel installed or are both wheels, rotors, etc. still removed?
 
gsellstr said:
Definitely not normal. Any chance you can post a video of it? Any chance there is something in the e-brake setup that's contacting?

For clarification, when you rotate from one axle shaft you get a noise and resistance that is not consistent as you rotate?

Is the trans in gear/park or neutral?

If you rotate from the driveshaft end, is the noise/resistance still there?

Is the other wheel installed or are both wheels, rotors, etc. still removed?
Click to expand...

Both wheels are not on. Haven't rotated via driveshaft yet. Car has been in park entire time. When I removed shafts I removed the e-brake down the the wires. Then pushed those wires out of the way. I haven't reinstalled e-brakes yet. I had a feeling something might be wrong. Lastly I ziptied my rear calipers to my IPD springs.

Personal note:
Guy that pressed my bearings on came into the office and said. "Hey you know these are not the same bearings right?" I was like "What? Are they the same measurements?" We checked with a micrometer and they measured the same. So we went ahead with the installation.

I haven't cranked the car up either. I feared I'd fubar something else up heh

Lemme guess..... Wrong bearings were installed huh?

Sorry no, im not able to upload a soundbite. Car repairs have sapped me dry almost.
 
I'm thinking I might need to go back to the machine shop and get those old races. Then using the part numbers on them find the bearings.

That i'll leave for a backup for Monday, if it comes to it.
 
Tossed the car in neutral and started rotating the driveshaft itself. I could hear transmission fluild sloshing all the way @ the rear differential An here I thought I was already half deaf hah!. No noise from either axle shaft like you can hear when you turn the shafts themselves. So I guess I could/was/am overreacting again.

Description of the noise I was/am hearing when I manually turn one of the axle shafts? Sounds like a clunking noise happening every 10-15 degrees and it sounds like its coming from the bearing area itself. Though its not, because inspection of both bearings before installation into the tubes proved they were very sturdy and indeed Japany new.

I'm go ahead and wrap this thing up like I should have done 3 days ago. I doubt it'll fly apart.

Thanks Again guys for putting up with such a novice as me
DJ
 
Chances are you are hearing the spider gears turning against each other. Button it up and see if it's quiet on a test drive, see if the diff or wheel bearings get warm.
 
gsellstr said:
Chances are you are hearing the spider gears turning against each other. Button it up and see if it's quiet on a test drive, see if the diff or wheel bearings get warm.
Click to expand...

I haven't had a chance to drive it yet. Been diagnosing my Master Cylinder as bad. First time I had to do it soz took me awhile. Lastly, I screwed up somewhat. I put 1 quart of 75w90 LS differential fluid into the car. After realizing my mistake I drained it then put 2 quarts of 75w90 GL-5 differential fluid. However now when I put the car in drive and rev the engine (rear axle is still on stands) I get a bell like ringing noise seemingly coming from the differential.

I'm assuming that that 1 quart of 75w90 LS is causing the locking mechanism of my G80 locker to pop back out once it attempts to engage.

My plan tomorrow is to drain the differential again and toss in some cheap GL-5 fluid in an attempt to flush out more of that LS fluid that I stupidly put in.

Sometimes I think I screw more things up than I actually fix:roll:

Anything else I should do?
 
Fluid should be just fine. I think you're letting your nerves get to you more than anything. If you really want to flush it out, put in a quart of ATF, run for 5-10 minutes, drain, flush with gl5, drain, fill with preferred brand of gl5.

As for the noise, could be a rotor/pad contact noise since things are unloaded.
 
gsellstr said:
Fluid should be just fine. I think you're letting your nerves get to you more than anything. If you really want to flush it out, put in a quart of ATF, run for 5-10 minutes, drain, flush with gl5, drain, fill with preferred brand of gl5.

As for the noise, could be a rotor/pad contact noise since things are unloaded.
Click to expand...

Found the problem, it was the driveshaft center support carrier bearing washer. Once the driveshaft starts turning it gradually starts going down the rest of the driveshaft before the u-joint then comes back up silently. Once its back where it's supposed to be it knocks onto the support bearing and stops making that ringing bell like noise.

Guys used to just mig weld these to the back of the bearing or the shaft. I can't recall off the top of my head which atm.

BTW: I changed that bearing last year soz i'm really worried about it. I'll shove the washer back were its supposed to be. If it doesn't stay then I'll address it.

As for the differential Gsellstr. Your right I should trust myself and my abilities. You've been very patient with me and I thank you.

DJ
 
No worries. Everyone has to start somewhere. Just happens that for me I started almost 30 years ago thanks to dad. I still question some things if I haven't done them before.

Good find on the dust slinger on the driveshaft. Haven't seen one walking around before, definitely could do it. For the time being you could take a punch and just lightly dimple it in a few places to keep it from walking.
 
gsellstr said:
No worries. Everyone has to start somewhere. Just happens that for me I started almost 30 years ago thanks to dad. I still question some things if I haven't done them before.

Good find on the dust slinger on the driveshaft. Haven't seen one walking around before, definitely could do it. For the time being you could take a punch and just lightly dimple it in a few places to keep it from walking.
Click to expand...

Thanks will do that. Shoved it back in its place with a little force and its seeming to stay put for the time being. Took it for a test drive to feel if some air still might be in my brake lines after the MC switch out. Pedal is a lil spongie soz its likely.

DJ
 
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