Howdy all!
In the past I would do the ford voltage regulator modification to the 200 series alternators to produce a stable 14.7V. http://www.turbobricks.com/mods.php?content=art0004
However, my latest endover was plagued with a full fielding issue.
My last setup:
Volt meter on the battery (B+)
Volt meter on the wire to the brush (but left disconected) (VB)
30A variable voltage, variable amperage power supply. (PS)
Results:
Car off:
B+ 12.8V (who cares, 12 something)
VB 0V
PS 0V
Key to run (position II)
B+ 12.8V
VB 11.3
PS 0
Car running
B+ 12.8V
VB 11.3
PS 0
Then as soon as I get the power supply over about 1.3v (I haven't gotten a real number, but again, I am not sure it matters)
B+15+ and climbing
VB 0
PS numbers will match B+ despite having voltage and amperage set to 0
I got courageous (or dumb) and tried shorting the runaway brush (hooked to the power supply to ground) The whole car stumbled and I felt like I was about to discharge the entire battery in a very bad way.
Found that when the ford voltage regulator is hooked up it does the same thing and keeps the brush energized until you unplug it! (good way to drain your battery, too)
I am 99.99999% positive that the ford voltage regulator is hooked up correctly
I am on my second alternator and ford voltage regulator.
The stock voltage regulator that came with the new alternator is a normal voltage regulator, i.e. is ok until you start turning things on, like lights and the fan. With the highbeams on and the fan running full tilt I am getting .3V drop between the alternator case and the battery. Not great, but certainly not terrible either.
Has anyone run into this problem before? Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Andrew
In the past I would do the ford voltage regulator modification to the 200 series alternators to produce a stable 14.7V. http://www.turbobricks.com/mods.php?content=art0004
However, my latest endover was plagued with a full fielding issue.
My last setup:
Volt meter on the battery (B+)
Volt meter on the wire to the brush (but left disconected) (VB)
30A variable voltage, variable amperage power supply. (PS)
Results:
Car off:
B+ 12.8V (who cares, 12 something)
VB 0V
PS 0V
Key to run (position II)
B+ 12.8V
VB 11.3
PS 0
Car running
B+ 12.8V
VB 11.3
PS 0
Then as soon as I get the power supply over about 1.3v (I haven't gotten a real number, but again, I am not sure it matters)
B+15+ and climbing
VB 0
PS numbers will match B+ despite having voltage and amperage set to 0
I got courageous (or dumb) and tried shorting the runaway brush (hooked to the power supply to ground) The whole car stumbled and I felt like I was about to discharge the entire battery in a very bad way.
Found that when the ford voltage regulator is hooked up it does the same thing and keeps the brush energized until you unplug it! (good way to drain your battery, too)
I am 99.99999% positive that the ford voltage regulator is hooked up correctly
I am on my second alternator and ford voltage regulator.
The stock voltage regulator that came with the new alternator is a normal voltage regulator, i.e. is ok until you start turning things on, like lights and the fan. With the highbeams on and the fan running full tilt I am getting .3V drop between the alternator case and the battery. Not great, but certainly not terrible either.
Has anyone run into this problem before? Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Andrew