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Classicswede 960 coilvers

rearwheelpeel

Slow Learner
Joined
Jul 22, 2014
Location
Rochester NY
I bought coilovers from classicswede for my 95 960. The rears went in no problem. The fronts are giving me hell. When I try to bolt up to the coilver the sway bar hits my lower control arm. I don?t see how I could get these hooked up without removing the sway bar completely. Has anyone here installed these coilovers before?
 
I have them fitted to my own 960 and there are no clearance issues with the anti roll bar at the front. Have you positioned the drop link bracket up as high as it will go? If you are dropped very low then you would likely need to fit a shorter drop link or shorten your originals
 
I got them on, but i had to remove the sway bar. Its not a problem with the links, its that the actual sway bar ends hits the control arm when i went to bolt the spindle to the strut. I needed a good 3-4 inches of space that the bar was preventing me from reaching. Maybe I have a different sway bar than you? Well I got the fronts and rears on, I've got the front lowered down and ill get to the rear later today. I was even able to mount up my new pegasus wheels with no clearance issues with these coilovers, so no need for spacers and longer wheel studs.
 
I got them on, but i had to remove the sway bar. Its not a problem with the links, its that the actual sway bar ends hits the control arm when i went to bolt the spindle to the strut. I needed a good 3-4 inches of space that the bar was preventing me from reaching. Maybe I have a different sway bar than you? Well I got the fronts and rears on, I've got the front lowered down and ill get to the rear later today. I was even able to mount up my new pegasus wheels with no clearance issues with these coilovers, so no need for spacers and longer wheel studs.


I am interested to see photo's of the issue so I can pin point what is going on and if needed make some alterations
 
I’ll take photos when I have a chance. I still need to mess around with the mount adjustments and try and align it. So far I really don’t notice much of a difference in handling after removing the sway bar, but I’m not really driving this car very hard either.
 
I had some time to get onto a lift yesterday and do some more messing around. I have the front down as low as I can go on 17” pegs without removing the fender liners, and it looks great. I really don’t feel a difference without the front sway bar, but I would like to try and get one back in there eventually. The rear is another issue. I hadn’t lowered them down yet because I was still working on the fronts, and when I went back to do those I realized I cannot go any lower than that leaf spring will let me, witch is pretty much stock height. My car is non-nivomat. Ive read that using the nivomat leaf spring will solve this, or I can do the “chop method” witch I guess involves removing an inch or so off of the end of each side of my current leaf spring. So my questions now are what will removing an inch off the ends of the spring actually do? Besides the shocks themselves, what differences in the rear suspension are there between nivomat and non-nivomat 960s? The kaphlenke coilovers say they work with nivo leafs or modified leafs, has any one modified a leaf spring to fit the kaphlenkes in the rear?
 
Chopping the leaf gives same result as shortening a coil. A Nivomat leaf is thinner and weaker than one with regular shocks.
 
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