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Old 08-13-2016, 05:00 PM   #76
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We know but won't tell you
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Old 08-15-2016, 05:27 AM   #77
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well.... does the ford unit bolt up to the volvo head?
full engine is Volvo one, so not pb to bolt manifold on it
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Old 03-19-2017, 11:01 AM   #78
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Am i to understand that a t5r clutch set bolts right on to a 960 m90 if i use a singlemass 850 flywheel? I want a lighter flywheel and a stronger clutch setup on my 960. thats why am asking.
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Old 03-21-2017, 02:50 PM   #79
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Am i to understand that a t5r clutch set bolts right on to a 960 m90 if i use a singlemass 850 flywheel? I want a lighter flywheel and a stronger clutch setup on my 960. thats why am asking.
Yes, better to use the 96-97 850R clutch though, its improved over the t5-r clutch.
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Old 02-10-2018, 01:04 PM   #80
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I can get a 24v 960 solid flywheel. Will this work with the 850r clutch?
Im using an m90 gearbox
Sorry for the noob question
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Old 02-12-2018, 04:14 PM   #81
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I can get a 24v 960 solid flywheel. Will this work with the 850r clutch?
Im using an m90 gearbox
Sorry for the noob question
960 has a dual mass flywheel. You have to use 850 or early x70I flywheel(not AWD). I'm not completely sure if all flywheels can take 240mm clutch but most do.
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Old 02-12-2018, 06:09 PM   #82
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You can use a N/A flywheel, just get it resurfaced to accept the bigger diameter disk. 850R clutches are readily available, they cost approx $230 from the dealer iirc. If you were to use a T5, California custom clutch still offers custom disks for this setup.
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Old 05-06-2018, 02:52 PM   #83
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So referring to the first post, was this setup actually run with the cable clutch setup and how did that workout? I'd like to use my cable clutch if possible.
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Old 05-06-2018, 10:00 PM   #84
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So referring to the first post, was this setup actually run with the cable clutch setup and how did that workout? I'd like to use my cable clutch if possible.
Yes. It was hacky, but it worked.
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Old 05-07-2018, 11:05 AM   #85
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As long as it can hold up to daily driving. You used a stock Mustang throwout bearing? I'm using SM 850 flywheel, 9" Ford clutch disc, stock 850 pressure plate.

I also have what I think is a McLeod hydro throwout bearing, some red anodized thing that I got with a used TKO600 I bought for my truck. It seems to be missing parts and I wouldn't want to spend like $500 to replace it if it fails. I guess my point is, would you go hydro if you had to do this again?
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Old 05-10-2018, 11:09 PM   #86
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Thank you for the detailed write up. Very helpful for planning. Is aftermarket engine management difficult to set up because it is an odd numbered cylinder engine? Would it be significantly easier on a 6 cylinder? Have no experience with EMS but interested in a whiteblock swap.
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Old 06-05-2018, 05:48 PM   #87
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Just some general information about things I've run into during my swap. When installing the trans the first time the input shaft bottomed out in the back of the crankshaft. This is with a brand new (albiet aftermarket) input shaft. I've got one each of the Deeworks and Muellers adapters, and they're both roughly the same thickness so that's not it. I solved the problem by shaving down the end of the shaft slightly.

Next problem was the nose of the bearing retainer bottomed out on the clutch disk that I got from California Custom Clutch. It wasn't holding it up much (~5mm), but it was enough to cause a wtf moment and some head scratching. That was easily cut down to size as well.

I'm also running the Tilton 6000 series hydraulic release bearing, I think several others have done the same. I'm not sure if it's common with this type of bearing, but the lines inside the bell housing are CLOSE to the pressure plate. I drilled one set of pass through holes in the bell housing and had to relocate them closer to the trans due to interference. Seems fine as of now.
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Old 06-05-2018, 09:21 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stick70 View Post
Just some general information about things I've run into during my swap. When installing the trans the first time the input shaft bottomed out in the back of the crankshaft. This is with a brand new (albiet aftermarket) input shaft. I've got one each of the Deeworks and Muellers adapters, and they're both roughly the same thickness so that's not it. I solved the problem by shaving down the end of the shaft slightly.

Next problem was the nose of the bearing retainer bottomed out on the clutch disk that I got from California Custom Clutch. It wasn't holding it up much (~5mm), but it was enough to cause a wtf moment and some head scratching. That was easily cut down to size as well.

I'm also running the Tilton 6000 series hydraulic release bearing, I think several others have done the same. I'm not sure if it's common with this type of bearing, but the lines inside the bell housing are CLOSE to the pressure plate. I drilled one set of pass through holes in the bell housing and had to relocate them closer to the trans due to interference. Seems fine as of now.
Good to know, I had the same issue when I bolted my t5/t5 together. It started with RSI and finished with Mueller. Do you know how much you had to machine off? I'm debating if I want to have the machine shop mill the crank a bit while they have it or get a thicker adapter made?
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Old 06-06-2018, 08:34 AM   #89
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Interesting. What input shaft are you using? I have a fox body trans and already did a test fit, didn't seem to have any issue. The bearing retainer does look like it's going to be too long but thats ok.

Those aftermarket hydro throwout bearings are tempting, in fact I have a McLeod one that came with a used TKO600 I bought for my C10. My only worry is if it fails then I have to shell out $400 for another one and it's aftermarket so I gotta order it in.
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Old 06-28-2018, 11:05 AM   #90
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I spec'ed out all my stuff for a '88 WC T5 from thegearbox.org, that's all I know about it really. I probably took just over 5mm off the shaft itself. It came out to be almost all of the chamfer on the the end of the shaft. My precision machining was done with an angle grinder and a steady hand lol. You could tell when I bolted it together, I thought it was just tight on the dowel pins at first, but then it wouldn't go in any gear at all.

The clutch is a 850R pp and that custom disk as listed above. Idk how much I took off of the bearing retainer, the Tilton tob doesn't slide on the shaft so I don't need as much as you would for a manual release setup.

So far I love the release bearing. It's paired to one of their overhung pedal sets and they work really well together. I ended up going this route because there are so many reviews of others on Summit etc. of problems with leaking.
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