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(formerly) The $700 1988 245

First gear shudder is entirely due to your driveline angles being off, and is exacerbated by soft motor and carrier bearing mounts.
 
First gear shudder is entirely due to your driveline angles being off, and is exacerbated by soft motor and carrier bearing mounts.

My torque rod bushings and TABs are wrecked, but they were fine a few months ago and it's been shuddering in first ever since I swapped the M47 for an M46 in the wagon, which had all new bushings. You're probably right but I'm still not sure what it could be, gonna wait until after I get the axle swapped out before I start poking.

Anyway, I welded a center hanger onto my exhaust to hold up the (far too large) flexy bit, to keep it from hanging down and looking ugly, and also to take some weight off the downpipe so hopefully it doesn't break. The weld that broke at Thompson had like no penetration, so I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did. Also wrapped the section that's right up by the gas tank.

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Speaking of Thompson, the day after the event (after I welded the downpipe back together) it was running really weird. It was fine pooting around but in boost it was just a dog. Took the distributor cap off and the problem was pretty evident.

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Also the powersteering cap had something wrong with it, it wouldn't stay tight. Turns out an old style cap fits just fine.

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I stuck my fake gopro in the engine bay cause I wanted to see the turbo glowing, but the battery died immediately and the audio is terrible. Oh well. I'm surprised how much it still moves around with the torque rod.

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EDIT: Oh yeah, and the manifold to turbo gasket blew out again. So I got rid of it. Doesn't leak. :e-shrug:
 
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I added an itty bitty glasspack. This let me change the angle of the exhaust a bit so it wouldn't rattle against the spring, which is an issue I've had since swapping the exhaust from the wagon, and it killed the droning I was getting around 3k.

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I also did the front brakes. New caliper seals, steel lines, OEM pads, Brembo rotors. I managed to get the lines off the drivers side but it was a huge pain. On the passenger side I went right for the angle grinder, which was much quicker.

They bite better now and there's no more warpage, but the pedal feels the same. I dunno if this is cause I still have old rubber hoses in the back or if there's still a bit of air hiding in the system. I haven't had a completely solid pedal in this car since I boiled the brakes the first time I went to Palmer. Also it seems the rear drivers tire is rubbing on the body. I guess that's just the bushings.

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Got all the flaky rust off the axle and POR15'd it, hopefully I'll have the ability to do 11s by next month. The parking brake system was so crusty the shoes fell off one side, which explains why it quit working. And the funny noise.

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Also my brother bought a cheap V70R AWD that's no longer AWD.

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I have no idea how to finagle this doohickey.

MS2 v3.0 set up for LH2.4 use. Plan is to figure out how to set it up for 2.2 and make a plug and play harness so I can drive with the stock ecus while I learn how to megasquirt. I don't need a proper TPS do I?
 
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I have no idea how to finagle this doohickey.

MS2 v3.0 set up for LH2.4 use. Plan is to figure out how to set it up for 2.2 and make a plug and play harness so I can drive with the stock ecus while I learn how to megasquirt. I don't need a proper TPS do I?

Are you running speed density? IAT?
If you're going to spend the time to convert, you may as well spend the $50 on the Yoshifab components to get a real TPS.
 
Are you running speed density? IAT?
If you're going to spend the time to convert, you may as well spend the $50 on the Yoshifab components to get a real TPS.

I think I'm gonna try and get it working with just MAP and IAT but I'm still reading the manuals and deciding how I'm gonna go at it.

I gave it 12v but it wouldn't communicate because I don't have the right serial cord. So I ordered one of those.
 
Making progress. I stared at wiring diagrams for awhile, made these connectors, did what the DIYautotune article told me to do, and gave it a try. I got it communicating with my laptop and pushed some random configuration buttons. Then I turned the key and the on-screen tachometer stayed at 0. Turns out I Kentucky fried the hall sensor. I put in a spare distributor, swapped around the power and ground wires going to it on the EZK jumper thingy, and now it shows 200rpm on screen when I crank it. Next is to figure out why it doesn't trigger the fuel pump..


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Hehehe.

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I drove around on MS a couple times. I got the idle AFRs pretty good, but it seems to be misfiring at idle. Dunno what's up with that. Also I gotta figure out how to get the IAC to work with this thing, not having that is really annoying. I can't find a whole lotta info on getting a 3 wire IAC to work. I gave it an intake temp sensor and wideband signal, still need IAC, knock, and MAF. My thinking is that MAF will get me good throttle response without a TPS.

Needs some real tuning work too. Cold starts are awful and it runs way too rich in boost. I guesstimated the spark table and the AFR table, then I drove for a little bit with autotune running which helped a lot.

Also for some reason spark cut quit working.. It was the first thing I played with when I got it running, but now when I turn it on nothing happens.

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I tried JB welding the IAT bung at first. Didn't work.
 
I drove around on MS a couple times. I got the idle AFRs pretty good, but it seems to be misfiring at idle. Dunno what's up with that. Also I gotta figure out how to get the IAC to work with this thing, not having that is really annoying. I can't find a whole lotta info on getting a 3 wire IAC to work. I gave it an intake temp sensor and wideband signal, still need IAC, knock, and MAF. My thinking is that MAF will get me good throttle response without a TPS.

Needs some real tuning work too. Cold starts are awful and it runs way too rich in boost. I guesstimated the spark table and the AFR table, then I drove for a little bit with autotune running which helped a lot.

Also for some reason spark cut quit working.. It was the first thing I played with when I got it running, but now when I turn it on nothing happens.

I tried JB welding the IAT bung at first. Didn't work.

PM Kenny (linuxman51) with all your specifics and info you have. He can probably get you sorted in like 10 minutes (hopefully).
 
MAF is wired in and working. Throttle response is sooooo much better now. I logged for a little bit, hit 120% duty cycle at like 14psi. Intake temp stayed at about 60f while I was moving.

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Full size pic
 
I wouldn't spend too much time chasing your tail on the knock sensor.

Do you remember that time I completely destroyed my engine because I couldn't hear it knocking? I need a knock sensor. But, actually, it doesn't matter cause knocksense still works without anything connected to the sensor on the ICU plug. Didn't think that would be the case.

I spent a day working on the MAP VE map thingy but it was still kinda gutless and I was getting really bad spark blowout at around 10psi. Turns out my tachometer and ignition outputs were switched around. Much better now.

Here's where I'm at:

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Note the 160% duty cycle. I still don't know what I'm doing, but now I can actually do wot pulls without it completely falling on its face which is a vast improvement over yesterday.
 
I basically started over with my fuel tuning. I made a new tune that was MAF only and worked the MAF curve into something that actually works, then I added speed density as secondary for fine tuning.

It runs pretty damn good now. If I stab the gas pedal above 2k it doesn't go lean at all. Main problem, not a huge one, is that if I give it too much gas too quickly off idle it'll go dead lean until I lift my foot. Still needs work but I'm getting there. I tried raising the rev limiter, just because, but it pings hard (I can hear it) as soon as it crosses 6000rpm no matter how much timing I pull out. Guess my rev limiter is staying at 6k.

Gas mileage has suffered slightly.. 11.3mpg last tank. On LH2.2 I got around 16-18mpg with my best tank being just over 20. (Actual numbers are slightly higher cause I still have the wrong speedo gear, but whatever)

I saw people in some megasquirt threads saying to just use the base idle screw instead of making the IAC work. I don't know what's wrong with those people, not having a functional IAC was easily the most annoying thing about the car. I replaced Q4 with a transistor, threw a diode in there somewhere, and connected pin 3 of the IAC to ground through a fat resistor, which effectively turns it into a two wire PWM IAC. Works like a charm.

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<iframe src="https://streamable.com/s/noeng/xguoqu" width="800" height="450" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Also, just for funsies, I loaded my map only tune and took off the intake. Ignore all the blowby.

<iframe src="https://streamable.com/s/ouhjs/qhxizt" width="800" height="450" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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