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No longer mom's grocery getter(1991 244)

b4_ford said:
Did you get the 25/25 bars? If you need poly bushings, I've got plenty...
Nope, don't have any. We went to Damascus earlier today, picked up 24 poly torque rod bushings(three cars worth) for free, hehehe, I smuggled them all into my pockets in my jumpsuit and big coat, and Turbo sways(23/21), better than nothing!

Right now I'm in the VShop, Pat's in there replacing the seals on the front of the engine, timing belt tensioner, and installing the cam... :cool: I put turbo sways on his car, my car, put some used KYB GAJs on the rear of my car, and some new KYB GR2s on the front.

Strut tower bars should be in the mail soon. I want to get the lower chassis brace and the GT strut mount reinforcements next(well, suspension wise next). And install the torque rod bushings.

Next on the list is some tint I think, and accumulating parts for +Ting it! Then, m47, red/clear rear taillights(current ones have cracking/leaking issues), e-codes... And whatever else I've mentioned before. Pictures coming tomorrow of some stuff that we did tonight.

w0000! Can't WAIT to drive it!
 
BuDunkaDunk!

It's hip-hoppin! Initial start-up was rough like a mad cam until the car warmed up a tad and got used to new cam, but now it idles smoothly and makes more power per throttle application everywhere! Well, MAYBE not under 2krpm, but MAYBE yes even under 2krpm. Timed straight up. It feels better. The 6k rev limiter is definitely not going to be holding me back, the car doesn't STOP pulling per say, but it definitely drops off(after maybe 5-5.2k? gotta try it out some more), just not as bad as the stock cam. We'll see how much more it improves when I chop off the front of the airbox and put on a Turbo exhaust... Should help nicely up there and everywhere else as well. Dyno coming soon I think, but that'll be before the exhaust for sure, and maybe before the further intake mods as well. I'm going to route the preheat hose out to the front spoiler as well as cut the front off of the box. I'd like to do the exhaust and the intake at the same time, just for a bigger seat of the pants difference, but, I think I've spent more than enough on the car for the time being. The exhaust will be January stuff... Probably anyway... :twisted:

When going 40-50mph, and I'd floor it, dropping into second, it pushes me back in the seat noticeably now. Partially also because I tightened the kickdown cable, which I need to do some more because it shifts way too soon still, but mainly because the car makes that much more mid and upper rpm torque(thus HP). Going up hills in OD should be better on the highway now, which will be nice, because before it just wasn't adequate enough and I'd lose speed unless I downshifted on some hills(OUCH!).

So, installed parts for today list:
-5k old V15 NA cam
-New KYB GR2 front struts
-Used KYB GAJ rear shocks
-Used (red)poly torque rod bushings for new front bump stops
-23/21mm 240Turbo swaybars
-New timing belt, tensioner
-New rear cam cap, front cam seal, front main seal, intermediate shaft seal

Handling? Car seems much more willing to turn, although doesn't seem to have any more oversteer than it did...? So that's cool. The roll stiffness doesn't really FEEL like it's been improved that much, but I know it is... The car also feels like it might ride better over bumps, BUT, I do feel more of everything even though it isn't as harsh feeling over bumps and stuff. Or maybe I'm imagining it/forgetting what it was like before. But I think it does feel like I feel everything in the road, like I have the tires pumped WAY up again. I don't like that though because it makes the car want to rattle more... So it seems to rattle more, but absorbs bumps better. And it definitely controls body movement better, that's for sure. It'll work for now. With the little GT strut reinforcement plates I hope to lose a little oversteer and gain a little ride height in the front. So, maybe I'll have to get those before I get the alignment as well. Argh. So I guess I'll order some of those soon here, and I'll toss them in when I put the strut braces in(maybe I'll get the lower brace at the same time, damnit, I'll call that a christmas present, right?) and the torque rod bushings. THEN I can get it aligned to something along the lines of 1 deg. neg. camber, as much camber as it'll evenly allow at that setting, and zero toe.

Yup.
 
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Sorry about the crappy pics... I wasn't paying attention to the fact that the camera was on the wrong settings... Oh well, here's what I've got.
IMG_3858.sized.jpg

Just another shot of how low it is(well, was before the new shocks, which didn't seem to visibly raise it much)
IMG_3859.sized.jpg

The new GR2 front struts with the old factory ones...
IMG_3860.sized.jpg

ENEM V15 NA! w0000
IMG_3862.sized.jpg

It flies!
IMG_3863.sized.jpg

KYB GAJ's in the rear
IMG_3866.sized.jpg

And, a picture of the panhard rod installed...
 
Looking good, Kyle. Still, the KYB's aren't supposed to work that well on lowered cars, so :???:

The e-fan will really help higher up in the revs.

Crazychopstick said:
HAHAHA. You really roll like that?
Yes I did. Hard to tell it's just an engine degreaser can cap, really. No longer own the Parabox, though.

-- Kane
 
tuff240 said:
Well he was going to install his custom Ohlins with remote reservoirs that are built exactly to the specifications of his car ...
:rofl:

-- Kane ... I know, I know, this is Kyle we're talking about. :badboy:

PS: granted, they at least work better than 14 year old OEM's, so.
 
tuff240 said:
Now you are beginning to see the light.
Sometimes we are restricted by budgets (or lack of) and have to make do with what we have available to us.
Nah, I know how it's like. In my instance, though, I would've waited until all the pieces come together first, then do it properly. Not do it partially, then have to redo it again shortly thereafter.

They will work until he has an extra $150 ...
It'll be a while. :badboy:

-- Kane ... though try and prove me wrong, Kyle! I'm giving ya until the next iPd swap meet ...
 
tuff240 said:
Well he was going to install his custom Ohlins with remote reservoirs that are built exactly to the specifications of his car, but he opted to go with the off the shelf KYB's because they are supposed to work so well on lowered cars. :roll:
Damn, who's this guy? He seems like an ASS! :-P

Lol, Kane, I know that on 140s, the KYBs are outside their operating range and don't work well on lowered cars, but I haven't really heard anything like that on 240s, although I can't imagine that not being the case, considering how low my car is... In any case, the car feels A LOT better how it is now, and for less than $100, it was more than well worth it for the shocks that I now have on the car.
PWRPUFF said:
Nah, I know how it's like. In my instance, though, I would've waited until all the pieces come together first, then do it properly. Not do it partially, then have to redo it again shortly thereafter.


It'll be a while. :badboy:

-- Kane ... though try and prove me wrong, Kyle! I'm giving ya until the next iPd swap meet ...
I couldn't wait. My car was so low, and I love to push the car so hard, and everyday on my drive to work I'm on the mountain roads, that the stock shocks with lowered suspension were no where near enough to keep me planted safely. I don't mind doing it again in a few months, if I even need to yet, because it isn't THAT hard to do it all when you're in a shop with a lift and air tools. :cool: Currently, the shocks are up to the task, we'll see how long they last, if they do indeed wear out. If they don't wear out, I might not want to get Billy's yet. If they wear out, then I'll do it, but in the meantime, I'd much rather get some other stuff taken care of... :twisted: Including a slow launch, due to some autotragic of a tranny. Which will in turn, give me better gas mileage. The lower braces(upper SHOULD be on their way, gotta PM that guy) and the strut tower reinforcement plates. And also of course the e-fan, and the airbox cutting(tonight probably) and the turbo exhaust, which will help the car run more efficiently at all rpm, especially up top. Then there's the stereo situation, the tint, the +Ti... So, if the shocks are still up to it by the next iPd swap meet, I will have no reason to change them, and I can get other stuff fixed.

I have a real job now though Kane, not in school, and have another little job on the side as well, I've got money to play with, kind of... Still paying off debt, but, I've got it nonetheless. :-P
 
Nice work Kyle. Quite the progress since you starting driving the car! Here I thought u didnt like 240s :-P
 
luke242ti said:
Nice work Kyle. Quite the progress since you starting driving the car! Here I thought u didnt like 240s :-P
That's because I had never driven a NICE one... Lol. It's changed me. I don't really think they look as good as a 140 does, BUT, the drive is nicer... Granted, I haven't driven a NICE 140 either, so... :)
 
tuff240 said:
Yep I'm sure. ;-)
:-(

(As a sidenote, Kyle and I have sorta known each other even before either of us were here on t-bricks, hence references go back to those days. I suppose it's awkward to anyone else, though. Back then, my 144 was still a daily driver, he was just learning about maintaining and repairing his 142, and I only had 3 Volvos, so that's saying something!)

-- Kane
 
Lol, Kane, no one is saying anything about you, Pat and I have lived together for almost 6 months now, so we've got some of our own references and ish-talking going on too. :-D

I played with my intake yesterday after work... I adjusted the kick-down cable to allow for full throttle, bent the tab that stops the throttle spool at idle and full throttle for a longer range, adjust linkage from throttle body to throttle spool, removed rear AMM screen, and cut out some of the front of the airbox. Now it pulls MUCH better up top and sounds great doing it! Definitely time for an exhaust to help even more and sound better. Can't wait! I just need to pick it up from down in Albany...

BUT, before that, there are other things that I actually NEED to take care of. The car's alignment is OFF. Mainly the toe, and then the camber needs to be evened out, I'm going to go for -1 degree in the front, and is caster adjustable at all? Probably not... Before I can get it aligned though, I need to get the strut reinforcement plates and my strut tower bars! They should be arriving early next week, and I can get the reinforcement plates then too, and then FINALLY get an alignment. Currently the car hops a little bit, a quick bouncing, almost like the shocks are blown, but they're not, when taking hard turns at lower/medium speeds. With the strut tower bars and the alignment and reinforcement plates, the front of the car will be a little higher, and the suspension will effectively be a little a little stiffer, so we'll see how that pans out with the correct toe(zero).

I think after the exhaust, which follows the alignment, I'll be getting tint and gathering parts for the manual swap.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=57980
 
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tuff240 said:
In lamens terms...
Camber is how much the top of your tire leans if you are looking at it from the front or rear of your car. Think of an old VW Bug that is really low in the rear. It is adjustable, but limited.

Caster is not adjustable stock, or easily modifiable. That is how much your strut assembly leans for or aft if looking at the car from the side.


Sounds like it is bottoming out and skipping. You need to take me for a ride and show me as that is NOT good.
I know what camber is... :roll:

I really don't think it's bottoming out, this is after I get off the brakes,(thus the front lifts up a tad), and just go through the turn. It's similar to how my car "skips" when at full lock in reverse... One tire is trying to turn more than the other, and causing one of them to slip more than the other.

I just found a set of IPD sways at a junkyard... I think they're the 25/22 setup as they're on a wagon, but the front of the car was smashed HARD, and the front swaybar isn't quite where it's supposed to be, so I don't know if it's straight or not. Hopefully it IS.
 
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klr142 said:
I just found a set of IPD sways at a junkyard... I think they're the 25/23 setup as they're on a wagon, but the front of the car was smashed HARD, and the front swaybar isn't quite where it's supposed to be, so I don't know if it's straight or not. Hopefully it IS.

No, it isn't bent. The only thing that was trashed was driver's side mounting bracket. It was a pain in the ass to pull! I broke a serious effin sweat! I haven't measured yet but I think the rear is 23mm. I grabbed both of them for ya. Also got a manual and some guages that I think you wanted. Any tranny that he has is $75.00 if you pull it for the rest of the month. The bars were $50.00.
 
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