Certainly the 89 block is nice and tight in the bores (presuming they ran an air filter). My concern with an 89 would be that is ~ the end of the skinny rod/55mm crank mains, a.k.a. the "low friction block". Over the last 10 years I recall at least one thread where any 89 was opened up and those internals were discovered.
I don't doubt the subject block/crank will take some boost, but I'd certainly suggest changing those rods to at minimum the 13mm version rather than the wimpy 9mm rods.
To the last comment about tuning, what specifically do you run/recommend on your +T engines? I've MS'd one vehicle and loved it, but I'm wondering if you are suggesting LH2.4 which the 89 will have. It has been proven to be a stable platform, albeit requiring more effort (in my experience) than MS with Tuner studio.
AFAIK, none of the engines OP is talking about are from 1989
I was simply stating that "it’s not the 80s-90s anymore", so there’s no need to use 8.7:1 compression engines to run boost. We have GOOD 93 octane gas now, as well as ethanol fuels. Both of which make it easy peasy to make decent power, even with a 96mm bore and 9.8:1 compression.
I am using stock LH2.4, that is my only experience with +T management. Well....technically I boosted an 88 with LH2.2+Chrysler. I installed 850T injectors and an LH2.2 turbo ecu. Can’t remember the number..I kept stock Chrysler ignition which is actually pretty aggressive apparently. This is not recommended but I only drove the car for a couple months, then parted it and crushed it.
Anyway, the lh2.4 NA>+T conversion is a direct swap. Like literally unplug NA ECU and EZK, install turbo ECU and EZK (both from lh2.4 turbo car) and that’s it. No more work needed with computers at all. Then 850T injectors, 3 bar FPR (recommended), 1 step colder plugs, reroute AMM, then all the turbo bits and bam. You have a +T.
That being said stand-alone is probably better in every way, but I didn’t need it and I don’t know how to tune, and it didn’t fit the budget.